• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.71-80
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• 2012

The Kut is the core of the traditional folk religion. The afterlife wedding Kut actually performs a traditional wedding ceremony by personifying the deceased in the process of performing the composition of Kut geori that cannot be observed from other Kuts, which is an important means to convey the situation of Kut more clearly. A traditional wedding ceremony performed in the Kut enables the audience to understand the meaning behind the Kut. The costume worn in the traditional wedding ceremony of the afterlife wedding Kut makes the audience understand the existence of the deceased by the use of a scarecrow dialect and makes them feel a vivid sense of the scene emitting from the Kut, which performs a traditional wedding ceremony in the composition of Kut geori. The results of this study showed that a shaman who led the afterlife wedding Kut had a scarecrow that symbolized the bride and a bridegroom wear the traditional wedding costume in order to visualize the deceased and express the symbol of a wedding which could not be made in this world. It can be interpreted that the traditional costume derived from the afterlife wedding Kut plays a symbolic role, which converts the deceased into a living person through the formal aspect of ceremonial costume and the cultural aspect of wedding ceremony.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.52-63
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• 2010

The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.144-152
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• 2004

In this study, the settlement of this etiquette book and the five-class mourning-costume system throughout two dynasties is examined and analyzed.; According to the Chosun dynasty's efforts to practice Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye(朱子家禮, Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals) through legal intensification and enlightenment policies, the book's teachings had a general effect on society at large. As a result, the family system and funeral rites turned Confucian from a Shaman-Buddhist mixture. As the Confucian order was strengthened to highlight the authority of the male family head, the funeral rituals were based on Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals. So, the 100-day funeral of Koryo turned into the 3-year funeral in the Chosun dynasty. Also, the main and father's lines were valued, while the mother's and wife's lines were neglected. Even though there was no great difference of status or place between males and females in the Koryo dynasty, the settlement of Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye brought about the drop of women's status as they gradually began to be dependent on men.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to research Korean Jowoo-Guan and Chinese Hal-Guan and study transition and symbolism of the birds feather in the cap. The culture of ancient Korea was influenced by North Asia prior to the influence of the Chinese culture, One of the remarkable thing, as the cultural factor of North Asia is the birds worship thought. Korean Jowoo-Guan was derived from the birds worship thought. So in dealing with the plume of Korean Jowoo-Guan, we must recognize Worship to the bird and the symbolical meaning of the bird. The results of study was as follow. 1. Korean Jowoo-Guan was influenced worship to the sun, so it's wearing symbolized the governing class. As the Social development and governing class, the feathering cap was developed to a gold crown, and also the gold crown of Samguk times had been influenced style of North Asia culture. But afterwards the symbolical meaning of the bird was waning, only decorative meaning was remained. 2. Chinese Hal-Guan was warn in Joo-dynasty, but the symbolism of the plume in the cap was not similar to Korean Jowoo-Guan. Chinese Hal-Guan was symbolized bravery of superfluous soldier than Worship to the bird. But afterwards the symbolical meaning of bravery of superfluous soldier was waning, only decorative moaning was remained. 3. Though neighbor countries have mutually influenced and have similar cultural style, they have symbolism of themselves

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.38-50
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• 2008

In the late Joseon period, as Korea suffered from two battles such as Byeongjahoran and Imjinweran, the people wanted to find comfortable shelters, which caused Bigi to prevail. That is, as an alternative to find a shelter which is physically prosperous and mentally comfortable and to get out of turbulent days, the people desired the utopian world of Sipseungji. The Sipseungji of 'Namsako' was deeply rooted in the society, which had a great impact on it. However, it is very surprising to find that the Sipseungji is metaphored in the process to make the shapes of Korean $J{\check{o}}gori$ which are a represented product of our culture. In other words, the ideal world we desired is a clothe itself which wraps human bodies, not any mysterious place that can not be found. They wanted to deliver the assumption that the ideal world is in humans themselves through clothes. Though a shaman sign of Sip (meaning ten), the Sipseungjiseol of Namsako became rooted in the living of the common people, which caused social confusion, but the Sipseungji suggests that as humans are the very lucky place, the utopian world is in themselves. Therefore, it should not be overlooked that the shapes of Korean $J{\check{o}}gori$ have instructional values that can not be found in those of other foreign cultures.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.