• Honam Mathematical Journal
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.649-654
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• 2017

In this note, we seek traveling wave solutions of a shallow water model in a one dimensional space by a simple but rigorous calculation. From the profile equation of traveling wave solutions, we need to investigate the phase portrait of a one dimensional ordinary differential equation $\tilde{u}^{\prime}=F(\tilde{u})$ connecting two end states of the traveling wave solution.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.28 no.1_2
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• pp.383-395
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• 2010

In the present paper, we construct the traveling wave solutions involving parameters of nonlinear evolution equations in the mathematical physics via the (3+1)- dimensional potential- YTSF equation, the (3+1)- dimensional generalized shallow water equation, the (3+1)- dimensional Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation, the (3+1)- dimensional modified KdV-Zakharov- Kuznetsev equation and the (3+1)- dimensional Jimbo-Miwa equation by using a simple method which is called the ($\frac{G'}{G}$)- expansion method, where $G\;=\;G(\xi)$ satisfies a second order linear ordinary differential equation. When the parameters are taken special values, the solitary waves are derived from the travelling waves. The travelling wave solutions are expressed by hyperbolic, trigonometric and rational functions.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.341-350
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• 2023

In this paper, numerical experiments are performed to examine the collision between a solitary wave and a wave-packet (dispersive wave) in shallow water. We attempt to introduce the improved Boussinesq equation governing the experiments, which is solved by using a semi-analytical approach, called Pseudo-parameter Iteration method(PIM). Using various numerical experiments, we have observed that the wave-packet (propagating dispersive wave) experiences a phase shift after collision with a solitary wave. This phenomenon may be considered as a nonlinear wave-wave interaction in shallow water.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.05a
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• pp.229-234
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• 2004

A Typhoon wave is generated by wind fields during the Passage of Typhoon. Transporting wind field makes wind wave and swell in the open sea, and then, those wave components are transported in the shallow water. Typhoon waves in the shallow water is generated by Typhoon wind field and incident wave. Bisides, Incident waves to the shallow water are deformated by topographic conditions. This paper estimated the analysis of the Typhoon waves by wind fields and incident waves according to wave action balance equation model. As the result of wave numerical experiment, wave field during the passage of Typhoon 'Memi' in the shallow water is strongly effect by wind fields. Wave action balance equaion can be partially used for Typhoon wave simulations.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Korean Journal of Mathematics
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.11-27
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• 2015

Nonlinear partial differential equations are more suitable to model many physical phenomena in science and engineering. In this paper, we consider three nonlinear partial differential equations such as Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation which serves as a model for the unidirectional propagation of the shallow water waves over a at bottom. The main objective in this paper is to apply the generalized Riccati equation mapping method for obtaining more exact traveling wave solutions of Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation. More precisely, the obtained solutions are expressed in terms of the hyperbolic, the trigonometric and the rational functional form. Solutions obtained are potentially significant for the explanation of better insight of physical aspects of the considered nonlinear physical models.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.68-76
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• 2013

In this study, a 3D numerical model was used to predict nonlinear wave forces on a cylindrical pile installed in a shallow water region. The model was based on solving the viscous and incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for a two-phase flow (water and air) model and the volume of fluid method for treating the free surface of water. A new application was developed based on the cut-cell method to allow easy installation of complicated obstacles (e.g., bottom geometry and cylindrical pile) in a computational domain. Free-surface elevation, water particle velocities, and inline wave forces were calculated, and the results show good agreement with experimental data obtained by the Danish Hydraulic Institute. The simulation results revealed that the proposed model can, without the use of empirical formulas (i.e., Morison equation) and additional wave analysis models, reliably predict non-linear wave forces on an offshore wind turbine foundation installed in a shallow water region.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.21-30
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• 2019

We propose a physical simulation method based on the shallow water equation(SWE) to represent water surface effectively. In this paper, the water which can be represented has a much larger width compared to the depth does not have a large vertical direction flow. In order to calculate the water flow efficiently, we start with the shallow water equation as the governing equation, which is a simplified version of the Navier-Stokes equation. In order to numerically calculate the advection term of the SWE, we introduce a new conservtive USCIP(CUSCIP) method which improves the Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP) method to preserve the physical quantity while increasing the numerical accuracy. The proposed method is based on Kim et. al.'s Unsplit Semi-lagrangian CIP[9], and calculates advection term with additional constraints on term that consider integral values. The experimental results show that the CUSCIP method is robust to the loss of physical quantity due to numerical dissipation, which improves wave detail and persistence.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.