• 호남수학학술지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.649-654
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• 2017

In this note, we seek traveling wave solutions of a shallow water model in a one dimensional space by a simple but rigorous calculation. From the profile equation of traveling wave solutions, we need to investigate the phase portrait of a one dimensional ordinary differential equation $\tilde{u}^{\prime}=F(\tilde{u})$ connecting two end states of the traveling wave solution.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제28권1_2호
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• pp.383-395
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• 2010

In the present paper, we construct the traveling wave solutions involving parameters of nonlinear evolution equations in the mathematical physics via the (3+1)- dimensional potential- YTSF equation, the (3+1)- dimensional generalized shallow water equation, the (3+1)- dimensional Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation, the (3+1)- dimensional modified KdV-Zakharov- Kuznetsev equation and the (3+1)- dimensional Jimbo-Miwa equation by using a simple method which is called the ($\frac{G'}{G}$)- expansion method, where $G\;=\;G(\xi)$ satisfies a second order linear ordinary differential equation. When the parameters are taken special values, the solitary waves are derived from the travelling waves. The travelling wave solutions are expressed by hyperbolic, trigonometric and rational functions.

• 대한조선학회논문집
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.341-350
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• 2023

In this paper, numerical experiments are performed to examine the collision between a solitary wave and a wave-packet (dispersive wave) in shallow water. We attempt to introduce the improved Boussinesq equation governing the experiments, which is solved by using a semi-analytical approach, called Pseudo-parameter Iteration method(PIM). Using various numerical experiments, we have observed that the wave-packet (propagating dispersive wave) experiences a phase shift after collision with a solitary wave. This phenomenon may be considered as a nonlinear wave-wave interaction in shallow water.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2004년도 학술대회지
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• pp.229-234
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• 2004

A Typhoon wave is generated by wind fields during the Passage of Typhoon. Transporting wind field makes wind wave and swell in the open sea, and then, those wave components are transported in the shallow water. Typhoon waves in the shallow water is generated by Typhoon wind field and incident wave. Bisides, Incident waves to the shallow water are deformated by topographic conditions. This paper estimated the analysis of the Typhoon waves by wind fields and incident waves according to wave action balance equation model. As the result of wave numerical experiment, wave field during the passage of Typhoon 'Memi' in the shallow water is strongly effect by wind fields. Wave action balance equaion can be partially used for Typhoon wave simulations.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

수심(水深)이 변하고 흐름이 존재(存在)하는 곳에서 천해파(淺海波)의 파랑변형(波浪變形) 해석(解析)에는 Boussinesq방정식(方程式)에 기초(基礎)한 포물형방정식(抛物形方程式)이 이용된다. 이안류(離岸流)는 Stokes파(波) 이론(理論)의 적용한계(適用限界)를 넘어선 곳에서 발생하므로 본(本) 연구(硏究)에서는 흐름이 존재하는 천해역(淺海域)에서 적용이 가능한 비선형(非線形) 포물형방정식(抛物形方程式)으로 수심변화(水深變化)에 의한 천수현상(淺水現象)과 흐름과의 상호작용(相互作用)에 의한 파(波)의 굴절(屈折) 및 회절현상(回折現象)을 해석(解析)하였고, 흐름은 상대적(相對的)으로 강한 흐름과 약한 흐름을 발생시켜 흐름의 세기에 의한 영향(影響)에 대해 비교(比較) 검토(檢討)하였으며, 수치해석(數値解析)은 쇄파(碎波)가 일어나기 전까지 수행(遂行)하였다.

• Korean Journal of Mathematics
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.11-27
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• 2015

Nonlinear partial differential equations are more suitable to model many physical phenomena in science and engineering. In this paper, we consider three nonlinear partial differential equations such as Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation which serves as a model for the unidirectional propagation of the shallow water waves over a at bottom. The main objective in this paper is to apply the generalized Riccati equation mapping method for obtaining more exact traveling wave solutions of Novikov equation, an equation for surface water waves and the Geng-Xue coupled equation. More precisely, the obtained solutions are expressed in terms of the hyperbolic, the trigonometric and the rational functional form. Solutions obtained are potentially significant for the explanation of better insight of physical aspects of the considered nonlinear physical models.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.68-76
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• 2013

In this study, a 3D numerical model was used to predict nonlinear wave forces on a cylindrical pile installed in a shallow water region. The model was based on solving the viscous and incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for a two-phase flow (water and air) model and the volume of fluid method for treating the free surface of water. A new application was developed based on the cut-cell method to allow easy installation of complicated obstacles (e.g., bottom geometry and cylindrical pile) in a computational domain. Free-surface elevation, water particle velocities, and inline wave forces were calculated, and the results show good agreement with experimental data obtained by the Danish Hydraulic Institute. The simulation results revealed that the proposed model can, without the use of empirical formulas (i.e., Morison equation) and additional wave analysis models, reliably predict non-linear wave forces on an offshore wind turbine foundation installed in a shallow water region.

• 한국컴퓨터그래픽스학회논문지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.21-30
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• 2019

이 논문은 물 표면을 효율적, 효과적으로 표현하기 위한 물리적 시뮬레이션 방법을 제안한다. 이 논문에서 표현하고자 하는 물은 깊이에 비해 너비가 매우 크고 상하 유동이 적은 상태로서, 이를 효율적으로 계산하기 위해 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 간략화한 천수방정식(shallow water equation)을 지배방정식으로 사용한다. 천수방정식의 대류항을 수치적으로 계산하기 위한 방법으로 기존의 Constrained Interpolation Profile(CIP)법을 개선하여, 수치적인 정확성을 높이고 물리량을 보존할 수 있는 Conservative Unsplit Semi-lagrangian CIP(CUSCIP)을 소개한다. 이 방법은 Kim 등이 제안한 USCIP[9]기법에서 사용하는 제약 조건에 적분값을 반영한 항을 추가하여 대류항을 계산한다. 실험결과를 통해, CUSCIP방법은 수치 소산(numerical dissipation)으로 인한 물리량 손실에 강건하여, 물결의 세밀함과 더불어 물결의 지속성이 향상됨을 알 수 있다.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국해양공학회 2001년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.