• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.937-947
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• 2003

A shoreline, which has no the water depth, moves continuously as waves rise up and recede. Therefore, a special boundary treatment is required to track properly the movements of the shoreline in numerical modeling of the behavior of tsunamis or tides near a coastal zone. In this study, convective terms in nonlinear shallow-water equations are discretized explicitly by using a second-order upwind scheme to describe a moving shoreline more accurately. An oscillatory flow motion in a circular paraboloidal basin has been employed to validate the performance of the developed numerical model. Computed results of instantaneous free surface displacements are compared with those of analytical solutions and existing numerical solutions. The run-up heights in the vicinity of a circular island have also been calculated and obtained numerical results have been shown against available laboratory measurements. A good agreement has been observed.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02a
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• pp.451-454
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• 2008

Potential tsunamis which may occur near Ryukyu Islands were simulated. Propagation characteristics of the potential tsunamis over the southwestern sea and the influence of tsunamis on the southwestern coast of Korean Peninsula were analyzed. The shallow water area in the east sea of China and the deep water Okinawa Trough play an important role in wave transformation and propagation of the potential tsunamis. The propagation characteristics of the potential tsunamis generated near Ryukyu Islands can be described as in followings : In the first stage after generation, the tsunamis propagate with high speed both northeastward and southwestward along the Okinawa Trough. As a result the waves are elongated and the tsunami height is significantly reduced. The elongated crest of tsunamis spans the whole distance of the Okinawa Trough and lines up toward the edge of the continental shelf of East China Sea. Then, the tsunamis are propagating towards the southeast coast of China. Thus, the influence of tsunamis on the Korean coasts becomes weak.

• The Journal of Engineering Geology
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.603-620
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• 2021

A land nodal seismic system was employed to acquire seismic reflection data using stand-alone cable-free receivers in a land-river area. Acquiring reliable data using this technology is very cost effective, as it avoids topographic problems in the deployment and collection of receivers. The land nodal airgun system deployed on the mouth of the Hyungsan River (in Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk Province) used airgun sources in the river and receivers on the riverbank, with subparallel source and receiver lines, approximately 120 m-spaced. Seismic data collected on the riverbank are characterized by a low signal-to-noise (S/N) and inconsistent reflection events. Most of the events are represented by hyperbola in the field records, including direct waves, guided waves, air waves, and Scholte surface waves, in contrast to the straight lines in the data collected conventionally where source and receiver lines are coincident. The processing strategy included enhancing the signal behind the low-frequency large-amplitude noise with a cascaded application of bandpass and f-k filters for the attenuation of air waves. Static time delays caused by the cross-offset distance between sources and receivers are corrected, with a focus on mapping the shallow reflections obscured by guided wave and air wave noise. A new time-distance equation and curve for direct and air waves are suggested for the correction of the static time delay caused by the cross-offset between source and receiver. Investigation of the minimum cross-offset gathers shows well-aligned shallow reflections around 200 ms after time-shift correction. This time-delay static correction based on the direct wave is found essential to improving the data from parallel source and receiver lines. Data acquisition and processing strategies developed in this study for land nodal airgun seismic systems will be readily applicable to seismic data from land-sea areas when high-resolution signal data becomes available in the future for investigation of shallow gas reservoirs, faults, and engineering designs for the development of coastal areas.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.249-262
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• 2011

In this study, in order to reduce the numerical oscillation due to the unbalance between source and flux terms as the HLLC scheme is applied to the flow analysis on the irregular bed topography, a unstructured finite volume model based on the well-balanced HLLC scheme and the shallow water equations is developed and applied to problems of dam-break waves. The well-balanced HLLC scheme considers directly the gradient of bed topography as the flux terms is calculated. This scheme provides the good numerical balance between the source and flux terms in the case of the application to the steady-state transcritical flow. To verify the numerical model developed in this study, it is applied to three cases of hydraulic model experiments and a field case study of Mapasset dam failure (France). As a result of the verification, the predicted numerical results agree relatively well with available laboratory and field measurements. The model provides slightly more accurate results compared with the existing models.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.159-167
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• 2015

In this paper, the errors found in the existed analytical solutions described the mechanism of residual pore-water pressure accumulation were examined and a new analytical was proposed. The new analytical solution was derived by using a Fourier series expansion and separation of variables was verified by comparison with the existed both analytical and numerical solutions and experimental result. The new analytical solution is very simple that there is no need for numerical integration for deep soil thickness. In addition, the solutions of the residual pore-water pressure for finite, deep, and shallow soil thickness reveled that it is possible to approach from finite to shallow soil thickness, but not possible to deep soil thickness because there was discontinues zone between finite and deep soil thickness.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.297-303
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• 2021

When sound waves propagate over long distances in shallow water, measured transmission loss is greater than predicted one using underwater acoustic model with the Rayleigh reflection model due to inhomogeneity of the bottom. Accordingly, the US Navy predicts sound wave propagation by applying the empirical formula-based High Frequency Bottom Loss (HFBL) model. In this study, the measurement and analysis of transmission loss was conducted using mid-frequency (2.3 kHz, 3 kHz) in the shallow water of the East Sea in summer. BELLHOP eigenray tracing output shows that only sound waves with lower grazing angle than the critical angle propagate long distances for several kilometers or more, and the difference between the predicted transmission loss based on the Rayleigh reflection model and the measured transmission loss tend to increase along the propagation range. By comparing the Rayleigh reflection model and the HFBL model at the high grazing angle region, the bottom province, the input value of the HFBL model, is estimated and BELLHOP transmission loss with HFBL model is compared to measured transmission loss. As a result, it agrees well with the measurements of transmission loss.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.111-114
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• 2008

Explicit solutions of the wave dispersion equation are developed using the recursive relation in terms of the relative water depth. We use the solutions of Eckart (1951), Hunt (1979), and the deep-water and shallow-water solutions for initial values of the solution. All the recursive solutions converge to the exact one except that with the initial value of deep-water solution. The solution with the initial value by Hunt converged much faster than the others. The recursive solutions may be obtained quickly and simply by a hand calculator. For the transformation of linear water waves in whole water depth, the use of the recursive solutions will yield more accurate analytical solutions than use of previously developed explicit solutions.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.479-484
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• 2007

For calculation of wave field for design of coastal and port structures, generally the wind fields from inland observation record or the predicted waves from deep water wave transformation model are being used. However, for the first case, as we should revise the wave data adopting correcting parameters depending on the distance from the coast and location, it is difficult to extract water waves from wind field. Furthermore, for the second case, because of the calculation which executed under very large grid sizes in the wide domain, the simulation(wave transformation) implied uncertainty in the near shore area and shallow region. So it's difficult to obtain exact data from the simulation. Thus, in this study the calculation of wave field on shallow water is accomplished using the observed data of typhoon 'Maemi' in the Korea Eastern South sea. Moreover, for the accuracy of the calculated wave field, we compared and studied the observed data of wave height and direction on the vicinity of the Ulsan waters. It is proved that the results of this study is more accurate than the existing method with showing ${\pm}1.3%$ difference between observed and calculated wave height distribution in Ulsan waters

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.