• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.83-96
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• 2004

Upon the threshold of late 20th century, the social, cultural and artistic trend began to pursue aesthetic pluralism and deconstructivism, and thus, fashion also began to reflect such a trend only to express cruel, detestable, horrible and ugly aesthetics. Under such circumstances, this study focused on the cruel images appearing in the modern fashion and thereby, attempted to determine their causes in reference to Julia Kristeva's theories. Her theories of women explain that women have incessant desires or blind obsessions about penis due to the bisexual instinct inherent in their subconsciousness, and thereby, discuss sado-masochism, a characteristic of women's violence and cruelty. In addition, she determines of abject, detestable and horrible nature of women by explaining their struggle to be separated from mothers at the stage of Oedipus (sexual differences). Based on such theories about women's cruelty, the cruel images shown in the modern fashion are categorized into sado-masochism, the violent and destructive image, and abjection, the women's apparels made of unpleasant, terrible and creepy materials decorated, to be reviewed systematically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.119-128
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• 2008

The surrealism art form comes from the world of unconsciousness. Based on its expression of the world of imaginary, it boldly demonstrates the arrangement and the forms of contradicted objects and the development of collage, montage, and protage techniques in the works which had a big influence on the growth of the modern art. The ideology and the modeling characteristics shown in the surrealism had various expressive forms and meanings in the modern compound expression and it grew out of the former standarlized forms and brought diversity and individuality based on the sensibility of the new avant-garde art form and showed great potential as it presented harmony in the multiple forms of art. The purpose of the research was to analyze the influences that were put on the surrealistic fashion art works and the works of the representative designer, Jean Paul Gotie. The characteristics of Jean Paul Gotie's surrealistic fashion comes from destruction, sexual image, and the mixture of heterogeneous. It is evident that the surrealistic fashion went beyond certain groups of avant-gardists' salvation of the world and were put to practice use, reaching out to the ordinary consumers. This was resulted from the revolutionary movement called, "anti-mode van fashion" led by Gotie. The surrealistic style will be led by various techniques and trends and developed through new characteristics in multiculture merged with various fashion styles.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.89-104
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to explain how a power group in a society forms features of sexuality in dress. As for the research methodology, first, historical research was undertaken to study in socioeconomic context in which sexuality has been formed and transformed. Second, demonstrative studies on sexual-image styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. Third, analysis of the relationship between the power and sexuality in dress was done by literature research. Masculinity in dress, such as simplicity and concealment, corresponds to the attributes of the viewer, and femininity in dress, such as decoration and exposure, corresponds to the attributes of the viewee. Power struggle is the complex process of forming of the viewer-viewee relationship. The one who grasps the power becomes the viewer. In the shift from the Industrial Society to the Information and Technology Society, powers are horizontally spread over the society and the stereotype of sexuality in both women's and men's dress is fading out. In the field of design, standards and certainty described by absolute power are losing their importance. The 'chaotic' view of a world filled with mutual exchange of masculinity and femininity and uncertainty of sexuality will be sure to be a dominant trend in fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

This is the research of Abject Art which was originated aesthetically in Abjection Theory of Julia Kristeva, a french psycho-analyst who argued liberational discussions about feminine identity against patricentric ideology which had fastened existing beautiful and elegant oedipal-feminine image and femininity as the secondary sex or the other's sex. and which became known by the planning display at whitney Museum of American in 1993. In Julia Kristeva's Abjection Theory which was written in her book(Power of Horror : An Assay on Abjection, 1992), she named pre-oedipal stage in which there is no sexual difference and has the same significance to both sexes instead of the oedipal stage which is becoming male-supreme reality as the semiotic and reinterpreted that an infant disregards feminine body--mother's body (Julia Kristeva, named it as Chora) as the love and the pain which carries her baby in herself and creates the baby which belonged to herself--which belongs to the semiotic to enter the symbolic smoothly. So the Abjection art is partly consist of some works which express the concertion of the boundary rebated with infant Identity which is not yet the other perfectly nor the subject perfectly, and of some works called Excretory Arts which express the excretion and vomiting which is the original experience of the abject. I expect that this research can be the chance of breaking from the fastened identity which was granted on female and feminine costume in this masculine-view centric society and creating the new position of costume and dress in the field of art by analyzing the costumes especially among these works.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.100-111
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate fashion advertisements portraying ambiguous sex phenomena, including homosexuality codes and to analyze the meaning of these advertisements in order to develop effective fashion advertisements strategies. The method of this study was to observe the readings about ambiguous sex theory, including homosexuality, and analyze fashion advertisements that express this through the Internet and fashion journals. The ambiguous sex expression seen in fashion advertisements meet various consumers' needs which is what the latest advertisement market requires, and offer competitive brand image by fresh appeal. In the background, there are various complex factors like the change of contemporary spirit, and designers' tastes and values about homosexuality. The kinds of ambiguous sex expression techniques portrayed in fashion advertisements can be divided as the ambiguity of physical codes and the ambiguity of sex role identity. These advertisements do play a role as a public campaign for a change in society from the sociocultural point of view. And, from the economical viewpoint, they approach the consumer as a fresh marketing strategy. From the esthetic viewpoint, they express new esthetic sense named “edge” And seen from the designers' viewpoints, they express designers' private sexual identities.

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Communications and Information Sciences
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• v.29 no.6B
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• pp.554-562
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• 2004

This paper proposes on the technical blocking method of Internet harmful pornographic sites which is the most Internet negative-function. At Present, most technical methods based on web sites back-searching or words filtering for blocking the pornographic Internet sites have limitations. For this, this paper proposes the acoustic and image based blocking method for filtering harmful Internet sites. For this, sexual main body parts are extracted by texture analysis and curve fitting. Also acoustic signals are analyzed using pratt tool and auto-correlation function is adopted for matching between prototype signals and test signals. Finally, the effectiveness of this paper is demostrated by several experiments.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.1-6
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• 2004

This paper proposes on the acoustic signal processing blocking method of Internet pornographicl sites by calculating correlation values between prototype acoustic signals and input acoustic signals. Pre-existing blocking methods mainly focused on directory-based bled(fin and pornographic related words-based blocking. But these methods are not completely blocked the Internet harmful pornographicl sites by several situations. For this, this paper proposes the content-based blocking method which composes of the image-based blocking and the acoustic-based blocking. This paper, mainly, deals with the acoustic -based blocking method. Finally, the effectiveness of this system is demonstrated by several experiments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.96-113
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• 2006

Romanticism factors in fashion since the 1990s is more about feminine softness and grace, and suggests the image of a fantastic cute and lovable girl with dreams. This study examined romanticism in literature focusing on the 19th century, which is considered the time of romanticism, and examined romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s based on the newly found characteristics of romanticism. Romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s can be divided into three categories of individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism, romanticism with a desire to aspire, and resistance inclined romanticism. First, individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism is the type that places importance on expression of emotions based on the values on individuals, and was expressed as either romanticism with sexual charm or as romanticism with an extremely feminine taste. Second, romanticism with a desire to aspire was the most prominent romanticism fashion type in men's fashion since the 1990s and it can be divided into four categories of aspiration of nature and time, aspiration of the past and romanticism, aspiration of childhood and aspiration of new exotic cultures. Third, resistance inclined romanticism was expressed as romanticism that is inclined to resist against materialism and romanticism that resists against youth culture.