• Title/Summary/Keyword: sewing techniques

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A Study on the Introductory Process of Foreigner's Architectural Engineering in the Late Yi-Dynasty (구한말(舊韓末) 외인건축술(外人建築術)의 전래과정(傳來過程) 연구)

  • Kim, Tai-Young
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.1 no.1 s.1
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    • pp.117-128
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    • 1992
  • The purpose of this paper is to clarify the introduction of foreigner's architectural engineering such as building materials techniques engineers, focused on the Late Yi-dynasty. Such all kind of building materials as timber brick tile cement lime glass window furniture and so on was imported from the foreign company in opening period of ports in Cho-son. The timer of these materials was imported from Japan, the brick tile from China, and others directly from Western counteries indirectly from Japan China. As it was active in an inflow of building materials and machines about 1890's, the modern building techniques were introduced and elementarily mastered such as timber sewing, manufacturing baking of brick glass, and masonry, The above modern techniques became the direct background in the formation of Korean modern architecture. Building engineers can be divided into three classes : architect engineer apprentice. But It could be apparently not divided the relation between architect and engineer at that time. They could be classified into job-architects who were engaged by the Korean government and leaded an active life in their settlement, and missonaries, They introduced the construction and style of modern architecture in our country, And so many skilled laborers and laborers participated in the construction of their settlement.

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현대여성(現代女性)의 의복의식(衣服意識)에 관한 조사(調査) 연구(硏究) - 서울 지역(地域)의 양복(洋服) 착용자(着用者)를 중심(中心)으로 -

  • Lee, Hee-Myung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.2
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    • pp.73-88
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    • 1978
  • This article is an attempt to explain, at least in part, the contemporary Korean women's consciousness of Western Dreasses. As time changes, the role of clothing undergoes varisous transitions, while values and ways of life are constantly in change. It is, therefore, proper and appropriate to recognize as among the major aspects of social psychology such phenomenon as interests, understanding of clothing, the choice of a dress, and attitudes toward clothing, etc. The purpose of this study is to discover problems concerning and their clothing and their solutions, by means of a surveying approach. The method of research used is based upon questionares distributed to parents of first-year pupils in elementary schools and to female clerks working in offices, covering the period from August through October, 1976. The number of the questionares distrubuted totalled 600, and 526 were returned to the research to be utilized for analysis. The contents of the survey included such things as values concerning clothing, kinds of clothing and their practical use, the selection of clothing and the method of purchase, fashions, etc. The classification of aquisition are self-made clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made materials. It is composed of 25 items, including affirmative reasons as well as negative ones. The processing of the material returned was made by using the computer, and based upon classifications such as ages, monthly income, occupations; thus diagraming the result in percentages. The conclusion made and the improvements proposed are as follows: 1. The values of clothing were placed on the expression of the wearer's personality (32.7) and on eauty(28. 6%). The lower age group places is stress upon the expression of personality, while the higher age group stresses beauty. About 50% of wearers are contented with their clothing, their clothing, the rest of whom them indicating their dissatisfaction with what they wear. As to designs at the time of selection, about 46% indicated their preference of personal expression, 31.8% on usefulness. In selecting material, practicality is emphasized; in selecting patterns, single color is preferred. In short, personal expression and esthetic values are primary, with consideration of practicality in mind. 2. The classification of clothing according to their uses indicates the highest numbers in normal wear (home wears) and clothings to be worn outside home. As to evening dresses, (party dress) only one or two articles were checked by many, and no such article was clamed to be possessed by most. The highest ratio of wearing was shown in the case of home wear (47.3%) and clothing to be worn outside the home, which is 55.8%. The budget for one article of clothing was greatest in the case of home wear, and clothing worn outside the home. Many used both kinds of articles for the same purpose. It is desirable, therefore, that the kinds of clothing should be varied according to the purpose for which they are worn, and that clothing appropriate for that purpose should be worn. 3. The motivation for purchasing clothing was highly chosen in the item of seasonal change, which was 55.7%; Clothing deliberately made was indicated by 45.2%. In the mothods of purchasing clothing, clothing made to order and ready-made was indicated by 44.4%, which is the highest; Clothing made to order was 25.4%, and self-sewing was 1.1%, which is the lowest. (1) In the case of self-sewing, "I like it but it is very hard," was checked by 43.6%; "It is so difficult that I cannot wear such clothing" was checked by 13.3%. From these, we can conclude that the questionees are willing to make clothing by themselves, but techniques involved in sewing and at her problems involved in the skill are complicated but when those problems are eliminated there is a possibility for practice. The response checked by questionees concerning the self-sewing was, "It's economical", which is a clear indication that many questionees are positive for self-sewing. It is generally believed that ready-made clothing is cheaper, but it is not necessarily so. In consideration of the quality of clothing, self-sewing is a necessity, and it is desirable that it should be encouraged. (3) Problems involved in ready-made clothing, such as designs, skills, size (fitting) should be eliminated. When these problems are scientifically gotten rid of, it is possible that affirmative returns will be expected. Affirmative responses such as "Ready-made clothing is economical," "You can select there on the spot," are good signs that many women expect to wear ready-made clothing. It is in this sense that the prospect for ready-made clothing is brighter when much development for ready-made clothing is on the way. 4. Much concern for fashion are checked in such item of questions as "Fashionable clothing in the show window," "Clothes worn by women." The first item was checked by 50.1 %, and the second was checked by 48.6%. The reason for following fashion is "Because many people wear them," which was indicated by 30.4%. The reason for not following fashion is "It is too expensive," which was checked by 29.6%. The 26.2% of the answers indicated that "Fashionable clothing is devoid of personality," The influences of fashion over the development of fashion over the development of clothing are two-fold: Esthetic and active. It is not to be deniable that people follow fashion more or less. 1978.9>

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Immediate Constituent and Technics of Lingerie in the late20C - Focused on Slip, Knickers, Cami-Knicker - (20세기 후기 란제리의 구성 및 제작기법 - 슬립, 니커, 캐미 니커를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim Jee-Yeon;Chun Hei-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.6 s.96
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    • pp.109-124
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    • 2005
  • The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

A Study of the Historical Reconstruction of the Western Man's Coat in the Early of the 19th Century (19세기 초 서양 남성상의 고증제작 연구)

  • Ryu, Kyung-Hwa;Kim, Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.1
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    • pp.136-149
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    • 2015
  • This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

Conservation of Embroidered Textiles and Textile Works (자수 및 직물 공예품의 보존처리)

  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.198-210
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

Characteristics of Eco-friendly Design Expressed in Issey Miyake's Fashion (이세이 미야케의 패션에 표현된 친환경적 디자인 특성)

  • Ha, Seung-Yeon;Lee, Yun-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.3
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    • pp.57-72
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    • 2012
  • Interest in the environment is rising in all the sectors of industry and culture. Even in the fashion industry, fashion designers have recently begun delivering messages on the environment. In particular, $Issey$ $Miyake$ has been constantly interested in environmental issues, and has been deemed as a designer who values practicality and universality in clothing. This study seeks to examine Issey Miyake's fashion from the perspective of an eco-friendly design. This research analyzed collections of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980 to 2010 through photo works and www.firstview.com. The research method was to study 8 people who have professionalism in fashion design and have analyzed 201 works of $Issey$ $Miyake$ from 1980s to 2000s that have the characteristics of eco-friendly design. The results showed the following characteristics of eco-friendly design in Issey Miyake's fashion : naturality, simplicity, sustainability and transformability. First, $Issey$ $Miyake$ preferred natural materials and used Japan traditional dyeing that integrated modern techniques for naturality. Second, he expressed simplicity in his fashion by applying the least cutting and sewing in geometric panels. Third, he pursued sustainability with comfortable clothing that anyone could wear regardless of trend, age and body shape. Finally, he developed the A-POC system that eliminated the usual needs for cutting and sewing and tried transformability on clothing using buttons, strings, belts, zippers, and layered styling.

Developing a clothing and textiles studio course for future home economics teachers using principles of PBL and maker education (PBL과 메이커 교육을 적용한 가정과 예비교사를 위한 의류학 실습 수업 개발)

  • Lee, Yhe-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.1
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    • pp.134-151
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    • 2021
  • The aim of this research is to develop a clothing and textiles studio course for preservice home economics teachers applying principles of Project-Based Learning (PBL) and maker education to equip future teachers with the ability to nurture creativity among adolescents. The studio course was developed in the following stages: analysis, design, development, implementation, and evaluation. We concluded that the resulting course met the following objectives extracted from the 2015 revised curriculum of home economics subjects: to promote creative and environmentally-friendly fashion design and styling abilities, gain the ability to use makerspace tools, understand flat pattern making and sewing processes, and develop creative thinking, aesthetic sense, and communication skills. Furthermore, the educational effects of PBL and maker education were confirmed through student comments on the course. Students mentioned the practicality of the material in their actual lives along with their enhanced integration of the subject material, self-directedness, aesthetic sense, ability to learn through trial and error, collaboration and communication, and sharing. Based on results from the implementation and evaluation stages, a clothing and textiles studio course should include the following modules: introduction of terms and tools, submission and sharing of clothing reformation and upcycling techniques, introduction to hand sewing, pouch making, heat-transfer printing, 3D printing, mask making, hat making, vest making, and the final team project on fashion styling. It is important for instructors to provide detailed guidelines on selecting personas for styling, looking for available materials, and selecting materials online.

Improved Design of High School Girl's Summer Uniform Based on Style Theory

  • Zhang, Ling-Xi;Wang, Jian-Ping
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.63-77
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    • 2015
  • By means of statistical analysis and module concept, this paper investigated the current situation of high school girl's uniform and put forward its improved design and database establishment. Combined with the survey data, the future design direction and trend of the high school girls' uniform were proposed. By using modular design concept, the uniform is divided into five modules, and a style database has been built. Meanwhile, the parametric pattern database has been completed by using garment CAD system, based on the style database above, which has 42,336 possibilities to assemble a pair of school uniform. Combining with digital sewing techniques and by using computerized embroidery machine, the personalized design of high school girl's summer uniform has been realized. And two simulated case have been given for examples to prove its feasibility. The idea of modular design and parametric design method proposed in this study offer references for establishing the modular design database and parametric pattern database for other types of school uniform and are of relatively high practical and theoretical value.

A Case Study on Manufacturing Processes for Virtual Garment Sample

  • Choi, Young Lim
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.595-601
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    • 2017
  • Advances in 3D garment simulation technology contribute greatly to consumers becoming more immersed in movies and games by realistically expressing the garments the characters in the movie or game are wearing. The fashion industry has reached a point where it needs to maximize efficiency in production and distribution to go beyond time and space in order to compete on the global market. The processes of design and product development in the fashion industry require countless hours of work and consume vast resources in terms of materials and energy to repeat sample production and assessment. Therefore, the design and product development tools and techniques must aim to reduce the sample making process. Therefore, this study aims to study a case for comparing the real garment sample making process to the virtual garment sample making process. In this study, we have analysed the differences between the real and virtual garment making processes by choosing designated patterns. As we can see from the study results, the real and virtual garments generally are made through similar processes in manufacturing, while the time consumed for each shows great variation. In real garment making, scissoring and sewing require the greatest number of work hours, whereas in virtual garment making, most of the time was spent in the simulation process.

A Study on Plastron Basque -Centering around Rehabilitation of 1887 ~9′s Day Dress -

  • Moon-Sook Kim;Hyun-Ju Kim;Sung-Ji Han;Hyun-A Kim;Jin-Kyung Ryou;Jung-A Cho;Eun-Jung Choi;Shin-Ae Moon;In-Suk Hong
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.61-68
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    • 2000
  • In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.

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