• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate gather as decoration techniques of clothes. In this study, we defined 21st century as the modern fashion. And analyzed design that applied gather concerned with Milan, New York, London, Paris, Tokyo Woman's Collections. Data were used from Fashion News and Gap Press Magazine (2001-2004). The results of this study were as follows: 1. Gather was the most original techniques among decoration techniques of clothes and formed three-dimensional space. 2. There were many kinds of gather such as cluster gather, all gather, shirring, smoking, frill, flounce, ruffle. and it gave a different impression with Fabrics, cutting method, sewing method, parts that were used. 3. Gather had practical functions providing enough space in activity and was presented as new shape by three-dimension body motion when it was put on. 4. After analyzing design that applied gather showed in collections, there were various appearance according to designer's sensitivity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2023

This study aims to develop a mechanic embroidery bag design that reflects the symbolic image of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the country so that today's Korea can exist. As a research method, the theoretical consideration and image collection of independence activists were conducted through a literature review and visits to the memorial halls of six independence activists. The bag design was developed using mechanic embroidery textile of 12 motifs manufactured in previous studies through the computer mechanic embroidery sewing machine, and the types were limited to totes, Boston, clutches, baskets, shoppers, hover bags, and hat boxes. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was found that the dense light and shade and delicate color expression of each motif design were the most important and achieved through the proper selection and utilization of embroidery yarn according to the mechanic embroidery expression technique for developing in-depth textile materials. Second, unlike in the past, when machine embroidery was difficult to handle, the spread of embroidery CAD and computer machine embroidery sewing machines made it easier for individuals to develop embroidery products. Third, this study once again emphasized the symbolism of Korean independence activists who sacrificed for the nation to exist at a time when it needs to be recognized due to the lack of fashion and diversity in cultural products containing historical and cultural meaning and values of the country. This study was able to develop computer machine embroidery textiles and various bag designs using various mechanic embroidery expression techniques that can highlight the symbolic image of each motif.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.63-73
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• 2008

From the ancient Korea to the late Joseon Korean fur and leather had been preferred in and out of Korea for their good quality and excellent manufacturing skill. Since Unified Silla (A.D.676${\sim}$A.D.936) Korean fur and leather were manufactured divisionally by workmen specialized in materials and products, and such manufacturing process was succeeded to Goryeo and Joseon. Manufacturing of fur and leather was consisted of as follows: hunting and butchering - peeling - beating with a paddle and removing fat - oil manufacturing - drying - tanning, then cutting and sewing, and there was a special caring method. In order to make good fur and leather, each process of manufacturing needed particular techniques and all available methods were tried to have tender fur and leather by using smoking, excrement, lime, vegetable tannin and even cerebral liquid. And also required mouth-chewing and hand-pounding with a lot of time and of labor Keeping furs resilience and flexibility, sowing several skins together, even when the after-all-process skin was converted into clothes, was much more difficult than sewing fabric. Thus, the manufacturing cost was as much expensive as skin materials, and the volume of manufacturing of fur and leather was also limited. Therefore, fur and leather must have been popular for scarcity value in the manufacturing process, and this scarcity must have caused an extreme luxury of fur.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.33-47
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• 2020

As people have gained leisure time and become more interested in sports, various industries catering to these sports, including aquatic and underwater activities are growing. Many people are getting into scuba diving, where people can explore the sea at depths of more than 40-meters. Despite the increasing demand, there are limited studies on the sport. This study aims to provide basic research on materials suitable for developing technical scuba diving suits by analyzing several areas, such as design, material, sewing patterns, etc. The following trends were observed in all wetsuits: closure designs, ergonomic patterns, practical and functional details. Neoprene was the primary material of diving suits, and various functional materials were attached to the outer fabric or lining. The seam technique which minimized water contact and improved durability was sewing. Various techniques were also applied, such as flatlock stitching, GBS, LFS, etc. Subsequent studies shall investigate consumer preference etc. and other aspects, and continue to allow for the research and development of technical diving suits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.30-42
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• 2017

A comprehensive research must be conducted on manufacturing techniques such as patterns and sewing, with the understanding of material properties to satisfy consumers' emotions with a strong fashion trend orientation. Physical and emotional characteristics may change depending on the characteristics of the material, and the overall silhouette and feeling of the garment can change depending on how sewing is conducted.To examine the completeness of a finished garment depending on different kinds of clothing material, this study fabricated an actual garment and a 3D virtual garment as well using 3D CAD IMAGE SYSTEM (CLO 3D, DC Suite, etc.) for a comparative analysis. These two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages. This study selected five of the most representative clothing materials and conducted a comparative analysis on appearance differences between actual clothing and virtual clothing by material. Additionally, the study verified the similarity between actual clothing and virtual clothing by comparing their physical properties by material, and evaluated the objectivity and accuracy of the reproducibility of material properties of virtual clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1274-1285
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• 2002

The purposes of this study are to help the authorized textbooks on home economics be selected and used effectively, to provide basic data that are needed to improve the quality of home economics textbooks, and to suggest a next curriculum on home economics. In the study, eight high school home economics textbooks for "6th Curriculum developed by Ministrv of Education and Human Resources Development"were used for the analysis. The results are summarized as follows: there were wide differences in degrees of diversity and accomplishment in the contents of textbooks. In comparison, it was unfolded that three areas, "family", "home resource management" and "consumer" ,occupied much larger portions than other areas. About 81 percent of the authors of home economics textbooks were professors. A contents analysis on the clothing area showed that every textbook includes costume culture, clothing materials, clothing maintenance, and clothing construction. The presentation coverages and relative difficulties of textbooks were, however, diverse. It is somewhat noticeable that, while fewer professors majoring in clothing construction participated in writing, generally more pages were allocated to clothing construction than other areas. While presentations on anthropometrics method, construction theory, draft theory, usage of sewing machine and fitting theory were insufficient most textbooks were dealing with drafting of basic slopers and sewing procedure, etc. Making-up techniques on the apparels items such as Korean traditional men's pants, pajamas, shirt vest skirt, pants, apron and Korean pouch were handled closely in each textbook.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.695-704
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• 2011

This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.157-176
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• 1995

The purpose of this treatise is to study external form and internal meaning of minimal expression fashion which appeared as a major stream in modern fashion trends to understand one aspect of modernism in fashion and also to gain insight into internal value of human beings through fashion. The results can be summarized as follows : Firstly , minimalism is a trend in art attempting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means and minimal production process. Secondly, minimal expression in fashion means seeking simplicity an dpurity by using minimum design elements and minimal productive process. Thirdly, external from of minimal expression fashion can be created through application of following minimal expression techniques. 1. Minimal expression techniques in terms of line mean smooth curve flowing along body contours, straight lines of diagonal lines into desciplined silhouette or rendering internal contour lines. 2. Minimum expression techniques in terms of forms mean forms of smooth curves flowing along boyd or forms with simple geometric forms from qualitative aspects, In terms of volume it means quest for essence of pure body itself by revealing body as it is by minimizing the size of dress or its area and herein is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns.3. Minimal expression techniques by colors mean simple colors such as primary colors, colors without clear distinctions or natural colors and in terms of quantity it means quest for one color within one item of dress or combination of each items when getting dressed. 4. Minimal expression techniques in terms of fabrics mean fabrics with simple surfaced. In terms of quantity it means quest for essence of tight fitting thin textiles to human body or using transparent materials to human body thus exposing body contours as it is. 5. Minimal expression techniques in terms of productive process mean minimizing process of tailoring , sewing or ornamenting and seeking for simplicity and purity. 6. Minimal expression techniques in terms of manufacturing process mean selection of technique conveying simple image with disciplined simple image. Fourthly, minimal expression fashion with external expression as mentioned in the above lay body-priority style and its internal meaning can be asummed as quest for essence and purity of human body.