• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.214-218
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• 2010

This research was to judge on the gathered skirt's shape by visual images that was from the different gathered skirts according to different sewing conditions; fabrics(cotton, mixed-wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T). Questionnaire consists of 33 semantic differential scale expressing gathered skirt's image, and 10 items of the shape were measured by 3D measurements method. The data were analyzes by factor analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA. The image of gathered skirts was composed of the five factors of activities, attraction, grace, softness, and ordinary and it was showed that these five factors occupied 68.4% of the total variance. The shape of gathered skirts was composed of the two factors of the side and the front, and it was showed that these two factors occupied 93.6% of the total variance. According to correlation analysis of visual shape, the front was significant in activities, attraction and ordinary, and the side was significant in activities, grace and ordinary. As a result of ANOVA, the visual images were significant in ratio of gathers. 2.5 ratio of gathered skirts were perceived to be more active and attractive, and 1.5 ratio of gathered skirts were more ordinary and graceful.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.695-704
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• 2011

This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.766-775
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• 2014

This study is aimed to research the actual wearing condition of ballet dancewear of girls aged between 2 and 6 years on its design, size and fit. Survey data were collected from 171 mothers who have a girl learning ballet dance. The questionnaire was composed with ballet education, ballet dancewear purchasing, preference on design, size selection, and fitting. The collected data were analyzed with frequencies statistics, ${\chi}^2$-test, ANOVA using the SPSS WIN 20.0. The results are as follows; High rate of respondents said that the purpose of ballet education was for good body balance, leisure activity, and height growth. The main method of purchase was online shopping. The design, price, size and fit were identified as important ballet dancewear attributes for girls. The most preferred style of ballet dancewear were 'short sleeve skirted leotard' and 'camisole skirted leotard' which look like dress. The respondents reported slight satisfaction with size and fit, price, convenience in action, sewing and durability. The most preferred sizing system was code by height but any ballet dancewear makers don't use code by height. Therefore it is difficult for consumers to select size. Retailers and manufacturers could potentially use the results of this study to improve the sizing system and fit for children's ballet dancewear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.655-665
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to find out the Korean fashion brand purchasing behavior of Chinese woman college students who would be the one of major customers in Chinese market along with their preferences of Korean wave and fashion leadership. The data was collected from 379 Chinese female college students on Qingdao, China. The results based on the data analysis were as follows. 1. The students's preferences for Korean wave about Korean drama, popular song, films were relatively high. 2. Chinese female college students's evaluation of Korean fashion brand was high, especially, for the fashion trend, design/style, color, cutting and sewing, fitting, and material. However, they valued that its price was expensive. 3. The fashion leadership was classified as fashion innovation or fashion opinion leadership. 9.0% of the respondents were fashion dual leaders who were fashion innovator and fashion opinion leader. 4. The higher family income of the respondents was the better fashion leadership, preferences for Korean wave, perceived quality and attitude toward Korean fashion brand. The results showed that promotion strategy focused on keeping the Korean wave through drama, films, and popular song. And the development of high fashion brand and the word of mouth marketing through fashion dual leader were also needed in order to make inroads into China market.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1013-1019
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• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.42-53
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• 1999

Global sourcing strategy is the one that apparel firms adopt in order to improve efficiency. Souring statesgies are not limited to the decision of sourcing country or vertical integration of sewing process Sourcing strategies include all the ecision of marketing process from the acquisition of fabric to distribution of products. The present study aims to analyze the soucing strategies of Korea apparel industry in global perspectives by applying transaction cost approach and aims to provide the implications for the future. The results are as follows ; (1) sourcing strategies in the dimension of domestic versus offshore soucing are determined by the experience in foreign business and the degree of fashionability of the product. (2) Firms tend to increase affshore soucing as they accumulate the experience in foreign business because they can decrease transaction costs as the perceived risks decrease (3) Also firms tend to source their products in foreign countries when the products are more fashionable. Brand loyalty of the product is a additional factor that increases the proportion of domestic sourcing. (4) Degree of vertical integration of sourcing is determined by the fashionability brand loyalty and the experience in foreign business. That is firms decrease the transaction costs by avoiding the investment to short life fashion products. However firms increase the control over the high reputation product by in house production. As the apparel firms tend to more marketing oriented and the national boundaries of business envrionment becomes permeable more efficient global sourcing strategies should be stablished, Besides the production costs nonproduction costs should be equallly considered in order to analyze the total costs.