• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of Korean Institute of Industrial Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 1978

For labor-intensive sewing industry, productivity could be enhanced with the proper utilization of standard time system. This paper develops a standard data for sewing operations through three stages. The first is to identify the manual motions from sewing operations. The second is to simplify the MTM-1 data considering the frequency and the nature of basic motions occuring in the operations. Finally we synthesize the standard data using the simplified MTM-1 by the film analysis of the actual operations pictured in the field. The standard data developed is shown to be easier and faster with reasonable accuracy in determining the standard time compared to the MTM-1.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2017

We selected 81 universities (39.1%) for research and close analysis to analyze the current availability of courses in the field of clothing construction at four-year domestic universities. The results of the analysis shows that curriculum is currently composed of theoretical and practical courses that continue to be developed in diverse areas of study. Despite having classes with underlying similarities and differences, research shows that the course curriculum is constructed systematically with both theory and practice at each stage. Distribution of curriculum in the field of clothing construction were organized and analyzed by similar courses in 4 larger groupings and 9 sub-groups. Analysis of the large groupings showed that sewing courses (19.8%), pattern development courses (41.0%), advanced sewing courses (14.1%), and miscellaneous courses (26.1%) were established. Analysis of the sub-groups showed that basic theory and sewing courses (3.6%), sewing courses (16.1%), flat pattern courses (17.9%), draping pattern courses (14.6%), pattern CAD courses (7.3%), tailoring and advanced sewing courses (8.5%), scientific sewing and apparel production processing courses (1.4%), special sewing courses (3.9%), and miscellaneous and new subject courses (26.1%) were established. Overall analysis of the organization distribution was conducted in the order of pattern development (39.9%), miscellaneous & new subject (26.1%), basic theory and sewing (19.8%), and advanced sewing (14.0%). Field analysis from various angles indicates that pattern development, new subject courses, and miscellaneous courses had a relatively higher proportion than other major courses. From this it can be inferred that this trend is an effort to develop individuals to adapt to a rapidly changing fashion industry and environment. The composition of courses also shows great advancement towards diversification and course development. However, there is still insufficient exchange between industrial and education sites. As active exchange continue to be demanded, classification standards for new subject courses and titles of such studies have become unclear and have reached limitations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.549-561
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• 2001

Modern fashion can be expressed as 'pursuit of cocktail effect', which means not unformed, not bounded by a rule, and mixed with various styles. Among them, the most outstanding trend of style is the'infra-syndrome'which designs underclothes like a ordinary wear, which has outstood since early 1980s. In 1990s, this syndrome made active progress and now facing 21th century, it becomes one of the big trends in fashion. Clothes of infra syndrome are one of attempts for freedom expressed by progressive designers who pursuit new and surrealistic design. The purpose of this study is to maximize the aesthetic beauty of'infra-syndrome'apparel centering on dresses of which designs are notable derived from underclothes. With the sewing techniques using the special facilities of the lingerie-manufacturing industry and making use of new material which can be used far lingerie wear, this research strives to expand new ideas in the lingerie industry as well as to contribute to promoting the dress culture by developing novel lines from a new form of dress and lingerie-foundations of dress suitable for human body.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.75-80
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• 2004

This research was peformed to manufacture a shroud using hanji and to investigate the characteristics of the hanji shroud manufactured. A hanji shroud were manufactured by considering the designs of the traditional costumes of shroud. The vast fibers were used for the manufacture of hanji. The shroud manufactured could keep the natural feeling of hanji. The shroud showed the feasibility in sewing compared to textiles. However, fine needlework was required due to the poor appearance of small holes made by changing of sewing line. Since the hanji shroud has excellent ability in preservation for a long-term period and economical advantages compared to the shroud currently made by hemp and cotton cloth, the demand of the hanji shroud may be increased in the near future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.434-445
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• 2014

The meaning of this research is to make recognition for necessity of ergonomic fashion design research. And the purpose is to provide the guidelines for ergonomic fashion product development. For this, literature research and analysis of empirical illustration of product design indicating ergonomics characteristic are implemented. Among the body-conscious active sportswear, cycle wear, swim suit, and skin scuba wet suit were selected and analyzed. Then they were explained according to the ergonomics characteristics arranged previously. Lastly, the features of ergonomic fashion design were arranged by composition elements of the clothing such as pattern, sewing, material and detail. The characteristics of ergonomic design derived from literature and advanced researches are efficiency, usability, functionality and safety. Through research and analysis, the characteristics of ergonomic fashion design are as followings. In pattern, it is related to the 3D structure division pattern, the reduction pattern design, the closing & opening part design for easy detachment, the receipt and the changeable design. In sewing, it is related to the use of latest sewing techniques and the finish using silicon or rubber band. In material, it is related to the use of high performance fabrics and the proper arrangement of these. In detail, it is related to the convenient detail, the storage detail, the adjustable detail, and the body protection detail.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.472-480
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• 2005

It was proved the practical use of the unique traditional Korean paper through the previous researches. The purpose of this study was to suggest the adequate application which is making various applied patterns in the fashion products so as to contribute to textile, fashion, and Korean paper industry. Six kinds of vests with the same fashion material using the Korean traditional paper were manufactured in order to investigate the images of materials in case of wearing them on the actual human bodies. As the results of image assessment for the materials and the factor analysis, 'classical', 'natural', 'Korean traditional', 'rural' and 'luxury' images were presented as the representative image of the Korean traditional paper material. Making repeated patterns of stripes and zigzag by sewing-machine stitches showed the natural effect on Korean traditional paper. Well-matched harmony was shown between holes made by the needle in sewing and slits torn by the tension to the needle and the thread. Especially, transparency by irregular holes formed by artificial frictional washing could shown special formative arts harmoniously with semi-transparency of Korea traditional paper and touch of sewing yarn. After the unripe persimmon dyeing, holes made by the needle became more hard and tight. The changes were no longer shown by the artificial frictional washing and then fixed. As the result of applying the Korean traditional paper fashion materials with various patterns for the basic formed garments, it was shown that the common and simple garments were changed the garments with special formation which could be found on the art garments due to the creative touch and formative arts using the Korea traditional paper fashion material. A variety of formative application by means of the developed samples was suggested to enlarge the practicality. As the result of this study, it was discovered that the possibility and application of fashion goods through the developed samples made of Korean traditional paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.319-330
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• 2009

The contents of clothing and textiles area of elementary home economics textbooks from 1948 to 1955 were investigated. Home economics of elementary school education in those days corresponds to practice acts of elementary school education in present. Practical acts has the all-around concepts of the agriculture, industry and home economics Also the knowledge or skill for actual life are teamed. Practical acts education was started from lessons of sewing for women under title of 'jaebong'. It can be said that practical acts education was started from clothing and textiles area. The home economics elementary textbooks of the year 1948 were composed of 21 units for 5th grade and 22 units for 6th grade. The textbook for 5th grade of 1953 was composed of 19 units, and one for 6th grade of 1955 was composed of 18 units. The clothing and textiles area accounts for 38.6% in 5th grade textbook, for 32% in 6th grade textbook of 1948 and for 31% in 5th grade of 1953 and 6th grade textbooks of 1955. The textbook contents of clothing and textiles area were classified into five fields of sewing, knitting. patching, embroidering and care. In 1948, textbooks were placed a great deal of weight on sewing field education as 7 units of 15 units. The 7 units for sewing fields have suitable connection to develop. But, in the case of knitting, patching or care, just groundwork of each field was included for application to actual life without vertical connection. The contents of textbooks for clothing and textiles area in 1953 and 1955 were much alike with those in 1948.