• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권7호
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• pp.998-1006
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• 1999

This study has investigated the relation between the sewing speed and seam breaking strength applied perpendicular to the seam direction. Breaking strength efficiency breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of sewing threads and four kinds of fabrics. The results obtained are as follows : 1. According to the increase in sewing speed seam strength was remarkably decreased. Seam strength and its loss difference were shown variously as threads and fabrics were mixed. 2. In case of fabrics with higher strength seam strength showed higher. And the seam strength was determined by the loop strength. 3. In case of fabrics with lower strength seam strength and its difference for every sample showed lower. So the strength of fabrics dominated the seam strength than those of threads. 4. In the experiment using various fabrics and sewing threads there was a type of thread appropriate to each fabric. Fabrics and threads with have similar physical properties were shown proper seam efficiency. 5. The breaking mode was different for every sample seam that was tested.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.350-357
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• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.146-149
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• 2000

This study has been investigated the comparison of the seam strength of hand sewing with machine sewing using two kinds of sewing thread. On machine sewing, thread is used for sale, on hand sewing, thread is used for every fabric weft yarn. Breaking strength, efficiency and breaking mode of seams were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabric and three kinds of stitch type. The results obtained are as follows: The seam strength is not affected by sewing mechanism, but affected by a breaking mode : The type of slipped mode has a higher seam strength of hand sewing than that of machine sewing. When fabrics and threads were broken by a higher seam strength of machine sewing than that of hand sewing. Fabrics having low density using plain seam slipped more easily, so seam strength was greatly lesser. Fabrics having higher density had higher to seam strength. We should choose appropriate seams based on production, economy and aesthetics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.433-438
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• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• 적정기술학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2019

의류산업은 대표적인 노동집약적인 산업 중 하나로 의류 제조의 기본 공정인 봉제 작업은 인력에 대한 의존도가 매우 높다. 의류 생산비용은 라인의 효율성에서 큰 영향을 받는데, 생산비용의 절감을 위해서는 생산 속도를 조절하여 라인의 균형 유지하는 것이 중요하다. 그러나, 현재 의류 생산라인에서 활용되고 있는 인력에 의한 생산 실적 집계 방식은 이를 위한 부수적인 인력의 소요 등으로 인한 추가 비용이 소요되어 중소기업들이 직접 적용하기 쉽지 않다. 완제품의 인력에 대한 의존도는 집계 시간의 추가 소요와 인적 오류가 크게 잠재되어 생산비용의 증가와 함께 효율성의 저하를 초래할 수 있다. 본 논문에서는 에너지 소비 데이터를 수집하고 이를 CNN (Convolutional Neural Network) 기법을 적용하여 분석함으로써 재봉 작업을 통하여 생산한 제품의 수량을 추적하고 자동으로 집계할 수 있는 봉제 작업 생산 추적 시스템을 제안한다. 개발된 시스템을 통하여 2종의 재봉 작업을 테스트 한 결과, 최대 98.6 %의 정확도를 보이며 재봉 작업을 감지할 수 있었다. 개발도상국에서 의류봉제산업은 매우 중요한 산업이나, 위에 언급한 문제들을 해결하기 위하여 고가의 첨단기술을 적용하는 등 많은 자본을 투입하는 것은 크게 제한된다. 적정 기술을 적용한 본 기술은 이러한 개발도상국의 의류산업에 큰 도움을 줄 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.434-445
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• 2014

The meaning of this research is to make recognition for necessity of ergonomic fashion design research. And the purpose is to provide the guidelines for ergonomic fashion product development. For this, literature research and analysis of empirical illustration of product design indicating ergonomics characteristic are implemented. Among the body-conscious active sportswear, cycle wear, swim suit, and skin scuba wet suit were selected and analyzed. Then they were explained according to the ergonomics characteristics arranged previously. Lastly, the features of ergonomic fashion design were arranged by composition elements of the clothing such as pattern, sewing, material and detail. The characteristics of ergonomic design derived from literature and advanced researches are efficiency, usability, functionality and safety. Through research and analysis, the characteristics of ergonomic fashion design are as followings. In pattern, it is related to the 3D structure division pattern, the reduction pattern design, the closing & opening part design for easy detachment, the receipt and the changeable design. In sewing, it is related to the use of latest sewing techniques and the finish using silicon or rubber band. In material, it is related to the use of high performance fabrics and the proper arrangement of these. In detail, it is related to the convenient detail, the storage detail, the adjustable detail, and the body protection detail.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.363-373
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• 1973

The Sewability was tested with the seam strength and Puckering Grade by a general sewing machine according to some properties of simulated Leather, yarn tensile strength needle and stitches. The main results tested are as follows ; 1. The thick and uncomfortable leather is unable to be sewed by a general sewing machine, but the thin and soft one is able to. 2. The interval between stitches depends on type of leather used, and the variance in accordance with type of leather varies much more in the case of narrower interval. 3. When the sewability of leather-surface is not so good, is desirable to pour oil on the surface for the purpose of better efficiency. 4. The seam strength is directly proportional to interval of stitch and tensile strength of yarn and leather used, and needle No. 14 is more effective than No.1l. 5. The more the soft and thin leather is, the lower the Puckering Grade becomes. Type of yarn and interval of stitches do not seem to effect the Puckering Grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The goals of this study are to suggest the guidance for automated clothing manufacture by analysis the technology of the automated manufacturing facilities and to propose how improve the efficiency of the production planning and management for automated clothing manufacture In this study, the research about the automated clothing manufacturing machines and the analysis about the modules and functions of apparel information systems were performed. In order to understand the factory automation of the larger clothing firms, the case study method was used. The case study samples were 3 clothing firms. The results and suggestions are as follows: 1. An information technology for automated clothing manufacture has enabled the computer integrated manufacturing system to connect production planning and management part with each work station on the factory floor. 2. The apparel information system to integrate and manage manufacturing informations from each workstation and the apparel CAD system are used in the department of production planning. At the cutting room, there are automated manufacturing machines like an automatic spreading system and an automatic cutting system. Sewing room has the computer controlled unit production system and semi-automated sewing machines. In addition, in the finishing room, an automatic packing machine and a press system are used and besides a warehousing system has been developed. Considering these available technology, for better product efficiency, it is necessary to consider and utilize the specific character of these automatic manufacturing machines and computer system whether they proper to each product style. 3. Most of the clothing manufacturers are in the stage of semi-automated manufacture. In order to improve the manufacturing environment, it is needed to gradual procedure of manufacturing automation with considering the firm's financial condition, existing facilities and staffs operating machines. The case study sample firms are in the high degree of manufacturing automation. They can accomplish the flexible manufacturing system to link the information system with each work station menufacturing system by computerized control. For the case of the firm having already used the computer integrated manufacturing and managing system, it is necessary that the function to deal with drawing information is added to the retaining module of the apparel system.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.