• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.63-74
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• 2003

The first objective of this study is to investigate and analyze the construction of TUTU and secondly, to propose a systematic research background on a sewing method of TUTU. The final objective is to provide the exquisiteness and the comfort for customer when wearing a stage costume. The research method to investigate the TUTU construction in detail is by renting or buying three major TUTU brands, which are selling in Korea. The results of this study can be summarized into four categories. Firstly, the Bustier composes into 8 to10 patches, and the external material or accessory differs by the work of art and its characteristics. Moreover, the cotton is used for the inner material. which depends on dancer's vital activities. Secondly, a skirt layer ranges from 6 to 12 layers with laces. In addition, the gather or the pleats is used to form a crease. Thirdly, lace or cotton is the material used for culottes because it is stretchy and lightweight. For the waist part. a rubber band is used since its wearability plus functionality. Lastly, an adjusting part for a stage costume varied for each dressers physical feature and can be corrected with inner hems together a hook, a thread loop or a zip. In conclusion, the results of this study can provide the quality improvement for TUTU and furthermore can propose a framework for an understanding and a practical use of TUTU construction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.834-848
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the research trends and to find a future direction in the area of clothing construction in Korea. The data were included articles on clothing construction published in the five major journals from 2000 through 2008 in Korea. The identified 513 articles were categorized in eight areas: design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing and the others. In the results of examining the percentage of articles on clothing construction among articles published in each journal, the percentage of articles on clothing construction was highest as 21.2% in the Journal of Korean Home Economics and next, 19.3% in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture. As to the percentage of research on clothing construction according to theme, research on protective clothing and functional clothing were largest as 28.2%, and next, research on body types as 18.9%, and research on garment size systems as 10.5%. Research on protective clothing has increased remarkably since 2000, and particularly in 2004 it was so active that it occupied 44.1% of research on clothing construction. Next, with regard to the subjects of research, research with female subjects was more frequent than that with male subjects according to gender, and research with men and women in their twenties was most frequent according to age. These results show somewhat unbalanced tendencies in terms of research subjects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyse the structure and contents of clothing construction field in the middle-school textbook of technology and home economics with curriculum revised in 2007. 10 kinds of textbooks certified by Ministry of Education, Science and Technology in 2010 were selected and home economics field in them was the subject of this study with the external characteristics such as textbook system, instruction area and contents included. This study was content analysis-oriented and descriptive with data calculated by frequency and percentage. The findings are as follows. In 'Reality of Home-Life', food life area showed highest as 34.4% followed by clothing life(28.7%) and dwelling life(28.7%). The portion of present teachers in writing staffs was highest while there was no textbook where professors of each field were included in writing staffs. The contents of costume society, clothes material, clothes management from section 'Choice and Management of Clothes' in the chapter 'Family Life' and clothing construction from the section 'Making and Modifying Clothes' of the chapter 'Reality of Home-Life' were analysed in this study. Clothing construction-related fields were suggested separately by method of measurement, construction theory, drafting theory, drafting an original form, fabric trimming, utilization of the original form, length measure, cloth cutting, hand stitching, how to use a sewing machine, basting and correction, needlework process, completion, and evaluation. The contents of the unit 'Making Shorts' were about clothing construction theory, human body measurement, drafting an original form, process of making shorts and activity/research/experience. The contents of the unit 'Wearing Clothes after Fixing' in clothing construction-related field were about how to fix and recycling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.504-514
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• 2021

This study attempted to extract and structure the job skills required for 3D designers, which have been recently introduced to the fashion industry. The study aimed to materialize and objectify the 3D designer's job, using a focus group interview for the survey. The 3D designer has the TD task of making 3D virtual samples using the pattern files developed in Pattern CAD. Graphic design and fabric digitization are also major tasks for the 3D designer. CLO is mainly used for 3D virtual sample production, and PixPlant, Substance, Photoshop, Cinema 4D, Daz studio, and 3ds MAX are used for image and avatar editing. As per the job skills required for 3D design work, basic knowledge about patterns and sewing, skill in 3D virtual clothing technology, ability to use various software, and English skills were considered important, in that order. In particular, the need for knowledge about patterns and sewing became more important than the skill in 3D virtual clothing technology itself. To train 3D designers, it was found that not only 3D virtual clothing software, but also education on patterns and clothing construction, CAD developer's curriculum certification system, and 3D designer qualification management were required. In addition, 3D designers are recognized as an essential job in fashion vendors, and the demand for domestic brands is increasing. The biggest limitation of the 3D virtual clothing system is the perfection of the digital fabric. Also, technical improvement is needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.595-602
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• 2007

This study examined the aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style which is being considered as the representative classic of Western fashion and the transformations of those Grecian styles on the fashion of the twentieth century. This study used positive research method using literatures on art history and clothing history, fashion related publications, and magazines and websites to understand the trend of fashion designer's collections. The study results are as follows. The aesthetic characteristics of Grecian style was considered to be the ideal beauty combined with symmetry, the functional beauty combined with non-construction, and the sensual beauty combined with natural body. The ideal beauty combined with symmetry appears as a style that shows idealistic proportion of a body emphasizing high-waist based on the golden ratio and the body as a whole rather than details. The functional beauty combined with non-construction appears as perfect recreation a body in its original and natural form. The clothing takes a form that does not have any structural design and has simplified cutting and sewing. It uses pins and strings to fix up the form of clothing which is flexible and naturally draped. The sensual beauty combined with natural body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism in neoclassic period. Throughout the twentieth century, the desire for Grecian style was conveyed by a single detail or through an array of allusive effects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Building Construction Conference
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• 2018.05a
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• pp.107-108
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• 2018

In this study, we applied the fiber sheet made by the stitch bonding method, which is a structure in which transverse yarns and double yarns are crossed by applying the principle of sewing knitting without the use of adhesive, The tensile strength of the reinforced concrete structure was investigated. As a result of the tensile strength test of each specimen, the specimen to which the fiber sheet produced by the stitch bonding method was applied exhibited the highest tensile strength among the three types of specimens, and the fiber sheet produced by the needle punching method exhibited the lowest strength. In addition, the stitch - bonded fiber sheet showed a difference of strength of 0.1N / mm for both length and double - sided strength difference.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 1992

The purpose of this paper is to clarify the introduction of foreigner's architectural engineering such as building materials techniques engineers, focused on the Late Yi-dynasty. Such all kind of building materials as timber brick tile cement lime glass window furniture and so on was imported from the foreign company in opening period of ports in Cho-son. The timer of these materials was imported from Japan, the brick tile from China, and others directly from Western counteries indirectly from Japan China. As it was active in an inflow of building materials and machines about 1890's, the modern building techniques were introduced and elementarily mastered such as timber sewing, manufacturing baking of brick glass, and masonry, The above modern techniques became the direct background in the formation of Korean modern architecture. Building engineers can be divided into three classes : architect engineer apprentice. But It could be apparently not divided the relation between architect and engineer at that time. They could be classified into job-architects who were engaged by the Korean government and leaded an active life in their settlement, and missonaries, They introduced the construction and style of modern architecture in our country, And so many skilled laborers and laborers participated in the construction of their settlement.