• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to examine the relation between the cyber environment and the contemporary fashion design by studying the formative feature characteristics of cyber character's fashion in the on-line game from the point of the contemporary fashion design. The research method is to understand the general concept of the cyber-space and characters and then is to contemplate characteristics and formative features of game character's fashion of the cyber-space mainly with cyber characters that were closely linked with features of the contemporary fashion design. As a result, the formative feature of game character's fashion of the cyber-space was to be classified into four categories; reactionism, mechanism, futurism, sensualism. First, reactionism takes traditional elements with symbolical and compromising form. Second, mechanism has a tendency of deconstruction due to its vitality and sense of velocity for objects through employing geometrical forms and new materials. Third, futurism deviates from the established framework. It makes use of high-tech materials and has surrealistic and futuristic features. Fourth, sensualism does emphasize sensual parts of the body and intends to convey aesthetic atmosphere through association of ideas. Character's fashion of the cyber on-line game is unnatural and artificial in its forms and wear for the lack of knowledge for costume's structure, and it shows just simplified design that accept extremely partial fragment of features in the contemporary fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2010

Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the style of Marlene Dietrich who was a Hollywood legend in 1930s and has influenced on modern fashion. The characteristics of Dietrich style showed androgyny, sensualism and exoticism. Dietrich has been famous for wearing tailored pantsuit on and off-screen with mannish gesture and had great effect on women's wearing pants. Her confident, sexy mannish style represented her androgyny glamourously and proved she had a taste for a classic. Her sensualism focused on her famous legs because she understood the sex appeal of woman's legs. She showed her legs by wearing pants and decorative stockings, or matching colors of stockings and shoes to make her legs look longer and sexier by illusion. Her exoticism against a backdrop of black and white image, was presented with luxurious, sensual fabrics such as furs, feathers and velvet, along with dazzling accessaries. Also she didn't forget to manipulate angles of camera and lights for the engraving figure of her own. Her charisma directed her fashion image in detail and made herself a fashion icon in 1930s.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.924-936
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to discuss corsets that represent an undergarment that later became a popular outerwear. It discusses its forms and distinct characteristics to help create a unique fashion design and its execution. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The results of this study are summarized as follows: The standard look of corsets in modern fashion can be classified into styles of glamour, revival, and dismantle. The materials used vary from traditional fabrics such as satin or lace to newly developed materials such as metal or glass. Its presentation can also differ in that it may be used as an accessory with additional details, as an outerwear, as an extra decorative layer, or as a revealing innerwear by open outerwear. Characteristics of these various looks of corsets are; first, it redefines the revival of the traditional corsets through introduction of its historic elements and its compromise. Second, glamorous and feminine images are maximized through drastic and direct exposure by using tight lacing, a waist nipper or garter belts that emphasize a woman's curve. Third, it represents borderless dismantlement through experimental and irregular images using unconventional materials, new execution techniques, or alteration from the standard forms.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.147-159
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• 2013

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.