• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.151-167
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to systematize the theory of the Fashion Marketing and merchandi-sing system as well as the strategy for the Mar-keting based on the related variable. Furthermore, this study deals with development of the mark-eting strategy to the relation between consumers and industry. The content conclusion on the research can be outlined as follows : 1. In order to inverstigate how the life-style of consumers affects their sense of fashion, awa-reness of brand, and decision making process of purchase, the life-style of women consumers is classified into 15 types. (1) Acording to the different life-style types, and important difference is found in the consum-ers' sense of clothes, a unique image of outfit and its own favorite image of womanliness. (2) The consumer's awareness of a particular brand has a reasonable relationship with their brand preference and possession of the brands. (3) Their is an important discrimination acco-rding to the life-style types in their brand awar-eness and preference and possesion of brands. (4) The consumers of each life-style type show noticeable difference in the decision making pro-cess of purchase including he motive of purchase, the source of information, the cause of purchase intention, price, the frequency of purchase and the degree of satisfaction of purchased goods. 2. The merchandising system and the market positioning among the fashion industry are compared and analyzed in the following terms ; (1-1) For the purpose of establishing the target market strategy, the industry uses unreasenalbe methods to analyze the life-style of the target customers and the real customers(36%) and the aging phenomenon of brands is remarkable : as much as 37% of brands show over 5 years-old age gap. (1-2) The price setting process depends highly on the cost-plus approach. (1-3) In color planning, too many colors are used in every season(the average number is 22.3) and the investigation of the consumers' favorite color is neglected. (1-4) The manufacturers of successful brands are much likely to employ the textile designer and allow them to develop the various fabrication. (1-5) The regular rate of sales in each season is extremely low(56.04%) : the rate of the succ-essful brands is relatively high at 65%, but that of the unsuccessful as low as 51%. (1-6) 47% of brands reveal the designer-orie-nted fashion merchandising system. The successful brands, on the other hand, show a high rate of merchandiser oriented system. (2) Since the brand positioning is highly cen-tered on each brand image, styles and target age, the new data are presented in this study for the new market development. (3) To set up the target market, the mapping of images between the differentiated market and the consumers is suggersted according to the market positioning of industry and 15 types of the life-styles of consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.33-45
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• 1999

Examine the dress which the Emperor actually wore in Gun-ryung 42nd year of Ching dynasty, comparison of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》 with the Emperors year-round dress in Gun-ryung the 41st year was made and summarize the result as follows. It was used almost similar to the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》. Though the materials and colors were more diverse than those of the previous year, it seems that actual use of material was plain under the influence of mourning. All the materials for summer hat were rattans. And velvet was the material for the patrol hat, but actually used before they change to summer material after fur use was over according to the season, which can be said as more reasonable use than the code. Materials of coat were more diverse than the precious year and also they put on ko-hemp cloth which was not found in the previous year. This can be understood that they expressed their guilt-consciousness to the dead as dress material by wearing ko-hemp cloth during the summer after periiod of mourning was over. And they put on the ko-hemp, the Emperors ordinary dress, much longer time than the previous year and this seems to be coherent to the meaning of wearing ko-hemp cloth. They followed the Emperor\`s Jo-bok1 one for the Kae-bok which were not systematized and Jae-dae used Jo-dae2 as the Emperor\`s Jae-bok in 42nd year. This was the same as the Jae-bok code of the previous year. Jo-ju did not follow the code of 《Cheong-hoi-jeon-do》, but made a wide variety. For the belt, the same as 41st year, it marked the gem decoration style on the Jae-bok belt as a square type and mourning dress by using the round type. The Emperors dress in 41nd year showed one side of the patrol clothes by the patrol of San-dong. On the contrary, it was also the chance to see one side of funeral garments in 42nd year. In Gun-ryung 42nd year, the Emperor put on the funeral garments for hundred days. Accordingly even in parts, we can see that the Emperor wore two kinds of dress for hundred days, that is, color dress and white dress and white dress. While on duty, in other words, everyday dress was only blue color and also the same color for the belt and shoes. But didn\`t put on Jo-ju. When they were in mourning, they wore white dress and belt as a funeral garments, which were called Hyo-bok, Hyo-bok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.17-30
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the VM's characteristics of Maison Herm$\grave{e}$s which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy focusing on the flagship store window displays of Herm$\grave{e}$s. The framework for analysis of this study is established by related precedent studies. The results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results of this study are as follows. Maison Herm$\grave{e}$s window displays have been unfolded a total of 57 times for 10 years, and have introduced a variety of themes by cooperating with 40 artists in various fields. Herm$\grave{e}$s set up eight types of themes in order to show the window displays, and these themes have been developed by the method of display presentation such as surrealistic, symbolic, mood, realistic, information. A majority of the participating artists was the Japanese. In addition, the display components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, the object productions that were embodied the tangible and intangible image, the nostalgia, the child's world, good, colors, etc., were most frequently utilized for an effective display presentation of the themes that have been set according to each season. The most frequently used development techniques applied Herm$\grave{e}$s windows' VP were the 'd$\acute{e}$paysement', 'the descriptive narrative', and 'scene of dramatic contrast'. It turned out that a majority of the primary colors to make up Herm$\grave{e}$s window displays were analyzed by the red-orange and white color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.547-558
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• 2017

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.318-327
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• 2022

BACKGROUND: The mean annual temperature of the Korean Peninsula will continue to rise due to global warming. 'Shiranuhi' mandarin-a late-harvest cultivar-is primarily cultivated in plastic greenhouses where high temperatures cannot be directly avoided. Therefore, growth and fruit quality changes under elevated temperatures must be investigated. METHODS AND RESULTS: Elevated temperatures were divided into three groups [2℃ (T-I), 4℃ (T-II), and 6℃ (T-III) above the ambient temperature] during the 2019-2020 season. Mean temperatures were 17.1℃, 18.6℃, and 20.2℃ in T-I, T-II, and T-III, respectively. The bud bursts in T-II and T-III were earlier than that in T-I at 7 days and 11 days, respectibely. And the full blooms in T-II and T-III were earlier than that in T-I at 11 days and 23 days, respectively. Fruit size significantly increased with increased temperature. The citrus color index in the coloring phase markedly differed across treatments. Further, total soluble solid and acid contents markedly changed with temperature rise but the sugar-to-acid ratio did not. Sucrose content tended to decrease with increase in temperature, but citric acid content remained unaffected. CONCLUSION(S): Elevated temperature accelerated plant growth and development but delayed rind color development in 'Shiranuhi' mandarin. Therefore, rise in ambient temperature by >4.6℃ may negatively affect yield and fruit quality.

• Korean Journal of Ichthyology
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.185-193
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• 2014

To find the influence of water temperature, tank color and illumination in feeding, growth and blind-side hypermelanosis of starry flounder, Platichthys stellatus, in the present study, we performed a series of temperature, background color and illumination intensity test for 180 days (From June to December). The test was done in duplicate at 100 fish/tank (430% of initial covering area [PCA]) with the selected ordinary juvenile flounder (TL $17.3{\pm}0.5cm$, BW $82.5{\pm}0.2g$). The rearing was performed in darkgreen FRP aquarium tanks ($H100cm{\times}L100cm{\times}W100cm$; bottom area $1m^2$) lighten with average 1,000 lux and 230 lux, and in white FRP aquarium tank ($H100cm{\times}L100cm{\times}W100cm$; bottom area $1m^2$) lighten with average 230 lux of light intensity. We investigated correlation of daily food intake (DFI) with water temperature and salinity, and compared the influences of background colors and light intensity in DFI, food efficiency (FE), growth, survival rate, and ratio of malpigmented blind-side area and ambicolored fish ratio. In DFI, although it was not related with salinity, the amount was significantly decreased under 0.5 g/fish/day in summer and winter season, but was significantly increased over 1.5 g/fish/day in autumn season showing from $10^{\circ}C$ to $20^{\circ}C$ in water temperature. In background and illumination test, DFI, FE and survival rate showed no difference among three groups. The ratios of malpigmented blind-side area and ambicolored fish were also not significantly different among three groups, indicating that the blind-side hypermelanosis of starry may be governed not by background color (or light intensity) but by a genetics external trait inherited from parents.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.83-88
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• 1998

From the evaluation of physical properties such as springiness, gumminess, adhesiveness, chewiness and hardness by the texture analyzer, vegetable soybean lines with green seed-coat were best as compared with those with black, brown, mixed, and yellow seed-coats. A panel test evaluated on the basis of taste, sweetness, chewiness, and total scores also indicated that soybean lines with green seed-coat were the best. The total scores of panel test was decreased in the order of green > yellow> black> brown seed-coat colored soybean. The mean value of sucrose content obtained by HPLC analysis was highest in black seed-coat colored soybean, and followed by green, yellow, and brown soybeans. The highest sucrose content (8.22%) was observed in 180362, a soybean line with green seed-coat. The full-season type soybeans showed much higher sucrose content than summer types which are mainly cultivated on farmer's fields for vegetable purposes. The final 13 lines selected from 300 colored soybeans showed nearly the same panel scores as Miwongreen. However, these lines had a great deal of variation in sucrose content, and much higher readings in texture analysis than Miwongreen, especially in chewiness and hardness which were the most important properties in vegetable soybeans.