Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.23
no.2
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pp.307-313
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1999
This study investigated material the type(sewn-in stamped-on etc) of the label and its placement(location on the product) on children's clothing in order to survey consumer complaints to suggest the improvement. The data were collected from label-producing companies by surveying children's clothing displayed at department store as well as by questionnaire to 205 consumers who were mothers of preschool children. The results were as follows : 1. 100% polyester was the most used raw material for brand labels and nylon was for care labels. 2. Most brand labels were one piece labels and located inside the back of neck line by sewn-in either on the top on each sides or on all four sides, Care labels were usually sewn-in on the inside of left-side seam line. The texture of care label was softer than that of brand label and two pieces of care labels were widely used, 3. 67.3% of consumers complained of its stiffness while 36.1% of consumers complained of rough surface and edge 85.4% of consumers complained of an itch caused by brand labels and claimed to detach labels. For care labels 36.6% expressed displeasure of stiffness of labels while 39% complained of annoyance due to too many pieces of labels. 4. Major suggestions from the consumers were change of raw materials and relocation of brand labels. For the care labels changes of material form and type of labels were suggested and one piece of label and smaller size were preferable.
Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.
The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.
This study were to grasp the present situation of the pet wear market and the problem of pet wear, and to develop the pet wear pattern which agrees well to dog's shape and movements. We carried out survey research to analyze the actual pet wear market condition for a dog-lover, and movement analysis and sensory test to develop a pattern for Maltese which was the favorite dog among Korean. For data analysis, ANOVA with duncan test, T-test were conducted using SPSS statistic program(ver. 10.0). The results are as follows: 1. The results of the survey research, 75% of dog-lover had a pet wear and favorite was T-shirts. The problems of wearing T-shirts were 'too tight seam sleeve and bodice(front legs hole)', 'the clothes easily hang down' and 'easily taken off due to large neck size'. 2. The ease amount of the developed pattern was given according to the results of dog's shape and movement analysis, and the results of sensory test, there is a significant difference in the following items: depth of front neck line, front chest${\to}$abdomen curve, ease amount of sleeve, comfort level of leg parts. 3. The size of each parts of the developed pattern in this study were as follows : neck girth 27.0cm, body girth 40.0cm, back length 26.0cm, front leg girth 23.0cm, sleeve length 20.7cm, sleeve width 14.4cm. But, there exists some limits to generalize these results since dog's body size and shapes are various according to dog species. Therefore, further studies are needed to develop each pet wear pattern for each dog species.
This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.
Lee, Hyo Jeong;Kim, Nam Yim;Hong, Kyung Hi;Lee, Ye Jin
Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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v.24
no.1
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pp.97-109
/
2015
Recently, because the market for compression wear now includes all consumers, not just professionals, various items for recovery after exercising or for enhanced effects from exercise have been introduced. In this research, a systematic and stepwise design process was proposed to develop compression garment that has both functional area and appropriate pressure to protect the knee when exercising. The U-V format functional area that wraps underneath the knee was selected by considering the shape and change in the skin length when bending the knee. After the selection of the functional area, a total of seven knee design areas, including the existing product, were designed to determine the appropriate pressure. After various movements, the compression garment was ranked in terms of support of the knee, level of pressure, discomfort of seam line, and comfort of popliteal; the preferred design was selected using the quad method. Four compression wear garments were produced using two selected preferred designs; the wear evaluation was performed using a seven-point Likert scale. As a result, the optimal reduction rate of the pattern was calculated based on Ziegert and Keil's method. The applied percentage of the fabric stretch at the upper part of the crotch was 66% for the width and 50% for the length; for the lower part of the crotch, only 66% for the width was applied. Moreover, it was determined that the design of the U-V knee protection part was preferred when a 7 mm square was placed at a 1 mm distance because this not only supports the knee but also allows the fabric to accommodate various skin deformations.
This paper presents a new generation of system for pressure vessel and shipbuilding. Typical pressure vessel and ship building weld joint preparations are either traditional V, butt, fillet grooves or have narrow or semi narrow gap profiles. The fillet and U groove are prevalently used in heavy industries and shipbuilding to melt and join the parts. Since the wall thickness can be up to 6" or greater, welds must be made in many layers, each layer containing several passes. However, the welding time for the conventional processes such as SAW(Submerged Arc Welding) and FCAW(Flux Cored Arc Welding) can be many hours. Although SAW and FCAW are normally a mechanized process, pressure vessel and ship structures welding up to now have usually been controlled by a full time operator. The operator has typically been responsible for positioning each individual weld run, for setting weld process parameters, for maintaining flux and wire levels, for removing slag and so on. The aim of the system is to develop a high speed welding system with multitorch for increasing the production speed on the line and to remove the need for the operator so that the system can run automatically for the complete multi-torch multi-layer weld. To achieve this, a laser vision sensor, a rotating torch and an image processing algorithm have been made. Also, the multitorch welding system can be applicable for the fine grained steel because of the high welding speed and lower heat input compare to a conventional welding process.
Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.
As the nuclear power plant has been constructed continuously for several decades in Korea, the welding technology for components manufacturing and installation has been improved largely. Standardization for weld test and qualification was also established systematically according to the concerned code. The welding for the main components requires the high reliability to keep the constant quality level, which means the repeatability of weld quality. Therefore the weld process qualified by thorough test and evaluation is able to be applied for manufacturing. Narrow gap SAW and GTAW process are usually applied for girth seam welding of pressure vessel like Reactor vessel, steam generator, and etc. For the surface cladding with stainless steel and Inconel material, strip welding process is mainly used. Inside cladding of nozzles is additionally applied with Hot wire GTAW and semi-auto welding process. Especially the weld joint having elliptical weld line on curved surface needs a specialized weld system which is automatically rotating with adjusting position of the head torch. The small sized pipe, tube, and internal parts of reactor vessel requests precise weld processes like an automatic GTAW and electron beam welding. Welding of dissimilar materials including Inconel690 material has high possibility of weld defects like a lack of fusion, various types of crack. To avoid these kinds of problem, optimum weld parameters and sequence should be set up through the many tests. As the life extension of nuclear power plant is general trend, weld technologies having higher reliability is required gradually. More development of specialized welding systems, weld part analysis and evaluation, and life prediction for main components should be taken into a consideration extensively.
Ju Jang-Bog;Lee Jung-Suk;Jang Jae-il;Kim Cheol-man;Kim Woo-sik;Kwon Dongil
Journal of the Korean Institute of Gas
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v.5
no.3
s.15
/
pp.15-22
/
2001
Reliability evaluation of welded structures by mechanical testing of weld heat-affected zones (HAZs) has become general practice throughout the world. HAZs of steel welded Joints show a gradient of microstructure from the fusion line to the unaffected base metal. This study is concerned a correlation between the microstructural change and the fracture characteristics in HAZs of both seam and girth welds of API 5L X65 pipeline steel, which is generally used for natural gas transmission pipelines in Korea. The focus in this study is the investigation of macroscopic fracture behavior of the various regions within HAZ. Changes in microstructure and toughness were observed using actual HAZ specimens. To evaluate the macroscopic toughness of actual HAZ, Charpy V-notch impact test and CTOD test were performed.
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