• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.7
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• pp.1173-1183
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• 1997

In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.820-835
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide a basic pattern to assist in the development of formal pants that reflect the physical characteristics of women with lower-body obesity. The subjects selected for this study were women in their 20s and 30s with a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The experimental pants patterns were developed by varying the waist line position, the waist ease, the ease in the hip area, the crotch length, the front and rear crotch width, the leg width, and the total length. Data analysis was performed using the SPSS statistics program(version 18.0). To verify the difference, this study used a variance analysis and Duncan's test. The conclusions drawn by the study are as follows. To reflect the form element of an abdomen with fatty deposits, the waist circumference should have an ease of 2cm. The front waist result was W/4+0.5cm+0.75cm and the rear waist result was W/4-0.5cm+0.25cm. The hip circumference showed a total ease of 4.5cm. The front hip result was H/4+0.75cm and the rear hip result was H/4+1.5cm. The crotch width set to H/16-1cm and the applied rear crotch width was H/16+2cm. The rear hip area was given more ease to reflect the protrusion of the hip. Along the line extending from the knee area to the crotch line, the outer seam line was designed with a gradual S-shaped curve to accommodate the protrusion from the maximum thigh width.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.640-650
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• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.461-466
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• 2013

This paper examines the characteristics of butt welding joint shrinkage for shipbuilding and marine structures main plate. The shrinkage strain of butt welding joint which is caused by the process of heat input and cooling, results in the difference between dimensions of the actual parent metal and the dimensions of design. This, in turn, leads to poor quality in the production of ship blocks and reworking through period of correction brings about impediment on improvement of productivity. Through experiments on butt welding joint's shrinkage strain on large structures main plate, the deformation of welding residual stress in the form of I, Y, V was obtained. In addition, the results of experiments indicate that there is limited range of shrinkage in the range of 1 ~ 2 mm in 11t ~ 21.5t thickness and the effect of heat transfer of weld appears to be limited within 1000mm based on one side of seam line so there was limited impact of weight of parent metal on the shrinkage. Finally, it has been learned that Shrinkage margin needs to be applied differently based on groove phenomenon in the design phase in order to minimize shrinkage.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.969-980
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• 2003

The aim of the study is to develop a jean jacket and pants of easy-to-move for schoolgirls of 11 years old. The research was carried out as follows; 1. Using a manufacturer's pattern, a jean jacket and pants were made. 2. Based on the survey of 108 schoolgirls, interviews with 4 designers of children's wear, and wearing test, three trial garments were developed. -Certain areas such as knee, elbow, and hip should be altered to have better extensibility. -The weight of the garment would be better to be reduced. 3. Three trial garments were developed using following techniques, which were found in fashion magazines for kids very often. -Alter the location and the shape of the seam line so that the areas mentioned above can adjust the movement of the body better. -Match stretchable material at the areas which require better extensibility. -Use various trimmings to make the garment more size adaptable and easy-to-move. 4. These garments were tested by 26 schoolgirls, and they answered the questionnaires focused on the design preference and easy-to-move. 5. From the results of the wearing test of three trial garments, more effective techniques were selected. Using these techniques, prototype garment was developed. The prototype garment was approved by the wearing test of 26 schoolgirls.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.88-93
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• 2004

I The Purpose of this study is to look in to the production of high-functional clothing industry, such as item, style, layout, labor, suggest some effective solutions and alternatives for them. 23124554 For this purpose, the companies specialized in manufacturing of special high-functional clothings were sampled for a survey using interview and a questionnaire. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; It was found that since demands for high-functional apparels are low and their sewing processes are much complicated requiring expensive equipments, only a few companies are engaged in such apparels. In addition, since the quantity of order s small and material inputs are more frequently changed, the sewing processes on the production line need to be changed together with the production layouts. On the other hand, as the materials used are very special, expensive equipments should be used, for which the companies feel much burdensome financially. Accordingly, t is deemed necessary for the high-functional apparel manufactures to specialize the processes requiring specialized equipments or outsource some of them or recruit highly-skilled workers.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

This paper concerns with the relationship between the visual perception of the degree of pucker or wrinkles of garment surfaces and the geometrical parameters of surfaces. In this study, four potentially relevant parameters of the surface profile are considered, namely, the variance ($\sigma$$^2$), the cutting frequency (F$\_$c/), the effective disparity curvature (D$\_$ce/) (Defined as the average disparity curvature of the wrinkled surface over the eyeball distance of the observer) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature ( D$\_$cf/). Based on the experiments using garment seams having varying degree of pucker (i.e. the wrinkles along a seam line), it was found that, while the logarithm of each of these four parameters has a strong linear relationship with the visually perceived degree of wrinkles, following the Web-Fetchner Law, the effective disparity curvature ( D$\_$ce/) and the frequency component of the disparity curvature (D$\_$cf/) appeared to have stronger relationships with the visual perception. This finding is in agreement with the suggestion by Rogers '||'&'||' Cagenello that human visual system may compute the disparity curvature in discriminating curved surfaces. It also suggested an objective method of measuring the degree of surface wrinkles.