• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.350-357
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• 2001

In this study, seam strength, seam elongation and seam efficiency of polyurethane coated fabrics were examined under various sewing conditions using three kinds of fabrics, four kinds of sewing threads and three kinds of stitch lengths. And the sewability of polyurethane coated fabrics were evaluated by FAST system. The results were as follows: 1. Seam strength decreased with the increase of stitch length. The loop strength of sewing thread and the type of base fabric than the type of coated surface had an effect on seam strength. 2. Seam elongation also decreased with the increase of stitch length and was affected by the type of base fabric. The tensile elongation of polyurethans coated fabric had an effect on seam elongation. 3. Sean efficiency also was related to stitch length, the type of base fabric, and seam strength. The suitable seam efficiency was within 50%∼65% in which polyurethane coated fabric and sewing thread broke at the same time. Therefore PS thin and PPC thin sewing threads and 3mm stitch length were suitable to polyurethane coated fabrics. 4. The relaxation shrinkage(RS) of polyurethane coated fabric was smaller than the smallest value of control chart in FAST system. And the extensibility(E) and the shear rigidity(G) were larger than the largest value.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.57-72
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• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.33-40
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• 2013

This paper focused on investigating the seam strength by cutting direction depending on the fabrics and weave by comparing the tensile strength and elongation of bias, warp and weft of 4 kinds of find cotton fabrics and combining 6 kinds of seam cutting directions. The cutting directions are selected the warp direction, weft direction and 45-degree bias direction. Then, three kinds of directions, the warp/warp direction, the weft/weft direction and the bias/bias directions, and the three different kinds of directions, the warp/weft direction, the warp/bias direction and the weft/bias directions, were finally selected. The results are as follows: The tensile strength of all fabrics was higher in the order of warp, bias and weft direction and tensile elongation was higher in the order of bias, warp and weft direction in almost all fabrics. 100's and 150's cotton fabrics showed the highest seam strength when they were cut in the bias/bias direction. The seam strength of the fabrics cut in the same direction was the highest in the fabrics cut in the bias/bias direction. Four kinds of fabrics demonstrated the similar seam strength. However, for the seam strength of fabrics cut in the different directions, 100's cotton fabrics had the difference of seam strength by direction and weave, but 150's cotton fabrics didn't have any difference in seam strength by direction and weave. As described above, the seam strength was influenced by the cutting direction of fabrics. Accordingly, the seam strength can be improved by changing the cutting direction of seam when making the clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-234
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• 2002

An investigation was made of the angle of bias on the lower part of the armhole line of the back bodice and that on the lower part of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights, and then it was made of the lock stitch seam strength and elongation on the matching angles, the stitch density (26 stitches/3cm, 19 stitches/3cm, 14 stitches/3cm, and the samples (a cotton fabric and two kinds of cotton mixed polyester fabric). The matching angles of the machine-sewed samples are $30^{\circ}/-30^{\circ}$, $30^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$, $45^{\circ}/-45^{\circ}$ and $60^{\circ}/-60^{\circ}$ by the analysis of the angles of bias on the lower part of the armhole seam. In view of the results of the seam strength and elongation, the reasonable sewing condition of the lower part of the armhole seam was 19 stitches/3cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.710-717
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• 1997

An investigation made of fabric strength & elongation and the lock stitch seam strength & elongation by stitch density (N1.5; 26 stitches/3 cm, N2.0; 19 stitches/3 cm, N2.5; 14 stitches/3cm) depending on methods of. sample prepariation (angle variations of unseamed sample and overlapping way of seamed sample) It found maximum stitch density that results of the seam strength test was highist in each angle of bias. The results obstained were as follows: 1. As the results of fabric strength and elongation tests as a function of angle of bias, breaking strength were that warp and weft angles (0$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$) were much higher than bias angles (20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$) . And otherwise breaking elongation were that 45$^{\circ}$ angle of bias were highest and were that the warp & weft way were lower. 2. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of same angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 0$^{\circ}$/0$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/60$^{\circ}$:F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 20$^{\circ}$/20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/30$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$/45$^{\circ}$: F1-N2.5, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5, under 90$^{\circ}$/90$^{\circ}$: F1, F2, F3-N1.5. 3. As the results of the seam strength tests by the stitch density under samples of symmetry angles, the maximum stitch density were those; under 20$^{\circ}$/-20$^{\circ}$, 30$^{\circ}$/-30$^{\circ}$, 60$^{\circ}$/-60$^{\circ}$: F1, F3-N1.5, F2-N2.0, under 45$^{\circ}$/-45$^{\circ}$: F1, F2-N2.0, F3-N1.5.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.71-76
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• 2003

We evaluated the seam characteristics with finishing, seaming and sealing processes and seam Puckering behavior of the breathable waterproof fabrics with laser scan. There were differences in 99% significant level between the seamed fabric and the sealed fabric. Seam breakage was initiated with the breakage of sewing thread, so the seam strength after seaming was almost uniform. The sewn seam strength and elongation increased with sealing process in all finishing methods. Pucker grade of laminating type was generally much higher than that of the coating type. We confirmed that wave length and amplitude have more important meaning than the number of weave in the breathable waterproof fabrics. The puckering in breathable waterproof fabrics is mainly occurred by inherent and feeding pucker. The former if due to the insertion of sewing thread and the littler is caused by differential feeding when two pieces of fabric are fed into the gap between a press foot and needle plate.

• Journal of Welding and Joining
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.133-144
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• 1999

To fine seam annealer capacity of through thickness seam annealing in terms of through thickness microstructure change with increased toughness and elongation leaving heat trace on it, high strength steel pipes of ERW with different thickness were tested in different seam annealing temperature measured on the outer surface of pipes. Annealing temperature and microstructure of the weld seam were changed through applied seam annealing condition. Toughness and tensile test with hardness and microstructure analysis were done on the annealed weld seam to fine its characteristics as a primary step and annealing characteristics according to different seam annealing condition. Through a study of annealed ERW weld seam characteristics and seam annealing technology, amount of electric power should apply in decreased manner to arranged inductors of annealer in the order of 1st, 2nd, 3rd, so on for proper seam annealing. For example of 15.4mm thick and 610mm outside diameter pipe, applied power for proper seam annealing is 600 -650kw at 1st inductor, 450 - 500kw at 2nd inductor, 200-250 kw at 3rd inductor of annealer during 10 - 12M/minute moving speed of pipe. Also, the penetration depth of heat trace along the thickness direction of weld during seam annealing can be estimated through the equation 17mm/kv$\times$voltage(kv) with the microstructure and hardness analysis of thick weld seam as well as study of seam annealing and comparison of cooling condition to CCT diagram of low carbon high strength steel. From this result, the difference between the technological applicability of full annealing condition based on phase diagram and full penetration of heat trace based on CCT diagram along the thickness of weld seam is discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1985

The purpose of this study was to research the effect of sewing threads on sewability. The materials used in this study were cotton threads, p/c spun thread, polyester spun thread and core-spun thread, which were the same in count, but different in fibers. In order to approach the purpose of this study, the change of sew-ability was measured according to the number of laundering. The results from this measure were as follows; 1. The order of seam strength according to the sewing threads was polyester spun threads, p/c spun thread, core-spun thread, and cotton thread in proportion to the loop strength of the sewing threads. The preserving rate of strength after laundering was the highest in core spun thread. 2. The order of seam elongation according to the sewing threads was polyester spun thread, p/c spun thread, core-spun thread and cotton thread in proportion to the elongation of the sewing threads. The preserving rate of elongation after laundering was the highest in core spun thread. 3. The order of seam puckering according to the sewing threads' was core-spun thread, p/c spun thread, polyester spun thread and cotton thread. The order of changing rate after laundering was the same as the former order. 4. The order of the needle temperature according to the sewing threads was polyester spun thread, core-spun thread, p/c spun thread and cotton thread.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1107-1115
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• 1996

An investigation made of the easing contraction ratio according to sewing condition (seam line; wp, wf, 45$^{\circ}$ bias, stitch density; 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2 mm), 4 stitch/cm (2.5 mm), thread; sp 60$^{\circ}$s/2, sp 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 60$^{\circ}$s/3, st 50$^{\circ}$s/3)) by lockstitch industrial sewing machine with shirring foot. The correlations of the easing and sewing conditions were by SPSS PC), and visual test was done by enlarged photo. The results obstained were as follows:. 1. The easing contraction ratio is increased in proportion to the low of stitch density. 2. The easing contraction ratio of wp, 45$^{\circ}$ bias is correlated with stitch density, and that of wf be with stitch density, elongation & weight. 3. The easing contraction ratio of 13 stitch/cm (0.8 mm), 9 stitch/cm (1.1 mm), 6.5 stitch/ cm (1.5 mm), 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm) is correlated with flexible rigidity, and that of 4 stitch/ cm (2.5 mm) be with flexible rigidity and crease-resistance. 4. As a results of SPSS PC+ statistics, the easing contraction ratio is statistically correlated to the seam line, stitch density, upper thread tension, and fabric characteristics. 5. As a results of visual test by the enlarged photo, the limit of stitch density for easing contraction was 5 stitch/cm (2.0 mm).