• 제목/요약/키워드: satin weave

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수자직 복합재료 단위구조의 마크로요소해석 (Unit Cell Analysis of Satin Weave Composites Using Macroelements)

  • 우경식
    • 한국전산구조공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국전산구조공학회 1997년도 가을 학술발표회 논문집
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    • pp.35-41
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    • 1997
  • Unit cell analyses were peformed to study the engineering properties of satin weave textile composites. Two 5-harness satin weave layers with fiber tow shifts were modeled by unit cells and repeating boundary conditions were applied at the outer surface of the unit cells. Multi-field macroelements were employed to consider the microstructure details and to effectively reduce computer memory requirements. Preliminary results indicated that the engineering properties of 5-harness satin weave textile composites can vary significantly according to the manner how the adjacent fiber tows were arranged in stacking.

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조선시대 문직물의 시대별 제직특성 (The Structure and the Characteristics of the Patterned Textiles in the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 박윤미
    • 복식
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    • 제58권5호
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    • pp.153-165
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    • 2008
  • The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

한산이씨 문직물저고리에 나타난 문양과 직물구성 - 단(緞)과 사(紗)를 중심으로 - (Weave Composition of the Patterned Silks Excavated from Lady Lee(from Hansan)'s Tomb - Focusing on the Satin Damask(緞) and Simple Gauze(紗)-)

  • 장인우
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제15권4호
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    • pp.143-155
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    • 2013
  • This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

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의원군묘 출토직물에 관한 연구 (Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics form ewongun's Tomb)

  • 조효숙;안지원
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제26권10호
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    • pp.1390-1400
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

A Comparative Study on the Subjective Fabric Hand According to Gender for Winter Sleepwear Fabrics

  • Kweon, Soo-Ae;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Park, Jong-Myoung
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • 제5권1호
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    • pp.6-11
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

1748년 불복장 저고리 소고 (The Jeogori Included in The Buddist Statue in 1748)

  • 김선경;조효숙
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제5권2호
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    • pp.65-74
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    • 2003
  • The Purpose of this study is to investigate the jeogori included in the buddist statue in 1748. The jeogori was similar in shape to excavated costume of Andong Kwon, Papyung Yoon, and Chungyeongunju in 18th century. This jeogori was useful to estimate the interesting process of shape change of jeogori in 18th century. Four different silk fabrics were used in the jeogori. Outer fabrics were satin weave with floral, lattice strip, dragon, and cloud patterns. The ground area was 5-harness warp faced satin and the patterned area was 5-harness filling faced satin. An inner fabric was simple plain weave. Warp and filling yarns of all fabrics in this jeogori had no twist.

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탄소/페놀릭 8-매 주자직 복합재료의 열전도도 (Thermal Conductivity of Carbon-Phenolic 8-Harness Satin Weave Composite)

  • 우경식;구남서
    • 한국항공우주학회지
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    • 제31권9호
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    • pp.18-25
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구에서는 탄소/페놀릭 8-매 주자직 복합재료인 ACP302의 등가열전도계수를 단위구조해석을 통하여 계산하였고 또한 실험적으로 측정하였다. 먼저 8-매 주자직 복합재료의 직조섬유다발구조를 3차원 유한요소를 사용하여 미세역학적으로 상세히 모델링하였으며, 단위구조 경계면에는 주기경계조건을 가하고 해석을 수행하였다. 계산결과로부터 적층 형상 및 굴곡도, 섬유 체적비 등이 등가열전도도에 미치는 영향을 조사하였다. 또한 실험을 수행하여 열전도도를 계측하였으며 그 결과를 계산결과와 비교하였다.

김확 묘 출토직물 제직 특성 연구 (Characteristics of the Fabrics Excavated from the Tomb of Kimwhoak)

  • 조효숙;이은진
    • 복식
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    • 제61권2호
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    • pp.88-101
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    • 2011
  • This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

의류용 직물설계조건과 염${\cdot}$가공 공정 수축률과의 상관성 연구 (A Study on the Relationship between Fabric Design Condition for Garment and Shrinkage on the Dyeing and Finishing Processes)

  • 김승진;박경순;홍상기
    • 한국염색가공학회지
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    • 제17권5호
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    • pp.45-52
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    • 2005
  • The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

건직물 복합재료의 미세거동 관찰: 사진틀 실험 (MICROSCOPIC INVESTIGATION OF DRY FABRICS: Picture Frame Test)

  • 장승환
    • 한국복합재료학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국복합재료학회 2003년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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    • pp.211-214
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    • 2003
  • This paper presents the microscopic observation results from the picture frame test using five-harness satin weave fabric composite. Aligned and misaligned specimens are observed to verify the exact tow deformation pattern such as tow interval and change in tow amplitude. To observe the micro-deformation of the fabric structure, appropriate specimens from picture frame test are sectioned and observed under the microscope. From the observation results, it is found that a picture frame test with a misaligned fibre orientation angle shows large differences in deformation between tensile and compressive tow directions.

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