• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.25-39
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.131-144
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• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.108-123
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate costumes worn by high government officials which are illustrated in Tamna Sullyeokdo at the era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty. The findings of the study are as fellows: 1. Tamna Sullyeokdo showed that Moksa wore an simplified version of Jobok at a congratulatory ceremony. They wore Sibok at such events as examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. Particularly at Yeonhyang, Samo was decorated with some red flowers. The officials wore Yungbok when they were participated in military training, hunting or arrow shooting competitions. They wore Pyeonbok when they go on a trip 2. Pangwan wore Sibok when they took an examination. They wore Yungbok during military training while they wore Pyeonbok during Tamseung. 3. Hyeongam wore Sangbok at a congratulatory ceremony. When they take part in military training, examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang, those officials wore Sibok. They also wore Yungbok during military training, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. They wore Jurip decorated with some red flowers during Yeonhyang. And they wore Pyeonbok when they were inspecting military training of Seongjeonggun. 4. Gungwan wore Yungbok at every events. They wore Jurip decorated with Hosu and Jeonrip on their head, and wore Cheolrik during military drills, arrow shooting competitions, examinations, Jinsang, or Tamseung. They wore Jeonip decored with red flowers during Yeonhyang. During regular military trainings, those officials wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Cheolrik and Jeonbok. During Tamseung, they wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Jeonbok with Jungchimak or a set of Jeogori and Baji.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.1337-1340
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• 2016

Background: There is a noticeable change in the approach with which women nowadays seek help for diseases like breast cancer, primarily due to awareness campaigns, but what happens after surgical procedures is of great significance too. This study focused on the several psychological connotations attached to mastectomy and how the patients cope. Objective: To understand the pattern of anxiety and level of depression among Pakistani patients undergoing mastectomy. Materials and Methods: The sample size consisted of 88 patients who had undergone mastectomy at the different surgical units of the Civil Hospital, Karachi, from January 2012-December 2014; The questionnaire was administered before they were discharged i.e. within 3 days of surgical procedures. The patients were asked if they were willing to participate in this study, those who agreed signed the consent form and then we preceded by asking questions with a standardized tool. A self made questionnaire was constructed keeping in mind the nature and specification of the disease, which consisted of 20 questions related to anxiety and depression, focusing on a mixture of psychological and physiological symptoms. Results: There were a total of 88 patients out of which 36 (41%) were aged 51 to 60 years, 24 (27.2%) of the patients were in the age category of 41 to 50 years, 17 aged 61 and above (19.3%) and only 11 (12.5%) 30-40 years of age, the youngest of all the age categories. The pattern of depression and anxiety was found to be similar among all age categories, severe depression and anxiety predominating over moderate level of such symptoms, with only relatively few patients sufering mild or no depression symptoms. Conclusions: It was concluded that going through mastectomy leads to moderate to severe levels of depression and anxiety, primarily because the females feel incomplete and insecure after losing a part of themselves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.85-97
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• 1990

This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(가예반차도) in the Ka-rae-do-gam­eui-gue (가예도감의궤), how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(륙예) : Nap-che (납채) , Nap-gyng(납징), Go-gi(고기), Chaik-bi(책비), Chin-young(친영), and Dong-roe(동뢰). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (호위복식) and the Ceremonial arms costume (의장복식). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (양관-조복) and Samo -Danryeong(사모-단령) with Huygpai(흉배) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun- Hongeui (홍건-홍의), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos$\cdot$Deogrei (흑건-창옷$\cdot$더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do (순종순종비가례반차도). Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.180-203
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• 2020

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.1
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• pp.142-160
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• 2023

The position of the people who participated in the Bapyo Ritual held in the reign of King Sejong and the corresponding costumes were examined. The king, who was the executive body of the ritual, wore Myeon-Bok, a court dress, and Myeon-Bok was Gujang-Bok made of Jang-wha on Guryu-Pyeongcheongwan. Crown princes, royal families, and government officials wore Oryang-Gwan and Jekraeui, which were Jobok. The crown princes' Joboks were changed from Oryang-Gwan to Wukryang-Gwan in the dynasty year 10 of King Sejong, and in the year of King Munjong's accession, Myeon-Bok was received, and after King Danjong, the crown princes wore Palryu-Pyeongcheongwan and Chiljang-Bok. Diplomats and Jongsagwan who were the envoys wore Sangbok. A Sangbok worn by the diplomat was Samo with Danryeong, Seo-Dae, and Hyeopgeum-Hwa, and a Sangbok worn by Jongsagwan was Samo, Danryeong, Heukgak-Dae, and Heukpi-Hwa. Byulgam, who served as an attendant to the king in the king's close quarters, wore Gongbok and Sangbok. Gongbok consisted of Ja-Geon, Danryeong and Heukpi-Hwa, and Sangbok consisted of orange color Cho-Rip, Jikryeong, Joa, and Heukpi-Hwa. The person holding San, Gae , Sujeongjang, and Geumwolbu wore Ja-Geon and Cheong-Ui, and Seon wore Pimoja and Hong-Ui. Siwigun wore armor and helmets equipped with weapons. Among court musicians, Aksa's costumes consisted of Bokdu, Bigongbok, Geumdonghyeokdae, Bibaekdaedae, and Opiri, and Aksaeng's one composed of Gaechaek, Bisuransam, Hyupgo, Mal, Maldae, and Opiri. As a result of the above, the process of ceremonial clothes becoming uniform clothes in the reign of King Sejong was confirmed. The king and lower-ranking officials such as crown princes, government officials, diplomats, Byulgam, armies for ceremonial weaponry, and court musicians participating in the Bapyo Ritual wore the highest grade of ceremonial clothes for each class. King Sejong had repeated discussions to build a nation based on Confucianism, and arranged each rite and corresponding costume, and the Bapyo Ritual costume was also systematically prepared for each position. The ceremonial clothing organized during the reign of King Sejong was regulated in Yejon and became the basis for continuing to the late Joseon Dynasty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.185-200
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• 1998

The eldest son of the crown prince is very important social status next to the crown prince deciding fundamentals of a state in Chosun dynasty which laying stress royal authority. Accordingly, Chakbong(冊封) of the eldest son of the crown prince has been done independently like as Chakrei(冊禮) of the crown prince. The existig record of Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. The existing record of Charkrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince are Hyunjongwangseon(顯宗王世孫), Euisoseson(懿昭世孫), Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Hungjongwangseson(憲宗王世孫) of 4 books for Chakreidogameuigue(冊禮都監儀軌) being preserved in Kyujangkak(奎章閣). The transition of classified clothes are stated on Wangse sonchakreidogameuiguebanchado(王世孫冊禮都監儀軌班次圖) for Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. Its details are as below. Finally, there is no changes in constitution of the costume of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮) called as Ssanggodong(雙童髮)·Gongjungchak(空頂 )·Ojangbok(五章服) on documentary records depsitefo no explanation of Banchado(班次圖). Secondly, The classified clothes of the eldes sion of the crown prince Hcakreibanchado(冊禮班次圖) are on . We have acknowledged that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Dangbukwanwon(堂部官院) has been changed from Heugrib(黑笠) to Samo(紗帽) since Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Euibok(衣服) from Chungpo(靑袍) to Nokdanryung(綠團領), the costume of Euijangsu(儀仗手) from Chunggun(靑巾) to Whangchorib(黃草笠) and changed again to Hongpimoja(紅皮帽子), Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). Also we know that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Kyogun(轎軍) has been changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Hongpo(紅袍), that of Suri(書吏) changed from Chungeui(靑衣) to Huekeui(黑衣). Accordingly, the transition of costume color to red stands for the briliance. Thirdly, regarding the constitution of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮), that of Euisoseson(懿昭世孫) & Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫) are same for Unggolta(態骨朶), Youngjagi(令字旗), Keumdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Mojul( 節), Jaksun(雀扇), Chungkae(靑蓋), Chungyangsol(靑陽率). In case of Hunjongseson(懿昭世孫), Baktakgi(白澤旗) is added. On Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Chungilsol(靑日率) and Kiringi(麒麟旗) are added. However, we know that the constitution of the eldestson of the crown prince Hunjong(憲宗) Chakrei(冊禮) is quite different that of previous constitution. i.e. : Hongae(紅蓋), Baktakgi(白澤旗), Samkaggi(三角旗), Kagdangi(角端旗), Byukbonggi(碧鳳旗), Jujakgi(朱雀旗), Kuemdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Eunribgwa(銀立瓜), Kuemhwanggwa(金 瓜), Eunhwhanggwa(銀 瓜), Kuemwolbu(金鉞斧), Bongsun(鳳扇), Huegkae(黑蓋). Also the kinds of Eujanggi(儀仗旗) are various which are similar to the constitution of The Crown Prince(世子) Chakrei(冊禮).

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.120-126
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• 2010

As the importance of an historical area is getting increased in these days, the reconstruction of an bell chamber in Namhansansung has significant historial, educational and cultural meaning. The purpose of this study, as a study on an bell chamber in Namhansansung, is to assume an original location of the bell chamber and identify the size and shape of the original bell chamber through literature study, site inspection, and analysis on old maps. In addition, this study could provide useful information when new bell chamber is constructed. According to the literature study, site inspections(5 times) and analysis on old maps, the original bell chamber is assumed to locate near current Oroji tea house at the rotary, where was in the area of Hanggung. With regard to the traffic system, it is assume that there was an old road along with the current local road No.342 connecting the South Gate with North Gate and a Y or T shape intersection connecting the site of old bell chamber with the north. In addition, there was a government office street from the old bell chamber to Hanggung. The shape of old bell chamber is assumed to have Paljak or Woojingak roof. Samo roof was not found in all the five maps. Regarding the direction of bell chamber, three maps indicate that it faces the East and two maps show that it faces the South. Therefore, it is assumed that the length and width of the roof have similar size. However, a new bell chamber should face the East, which is the same direction with Hanggung. As there is a record which states that a bell in the Cheonheoungsa, Seonggeosan, Cheonan was used as a Namhansansung's bell when the Cheonheoungsa was closed, this study suggests that new Namansansung's bell should be built, considering histroical value and artistry of Cheonheoungsa's bell. This study is a basic research for the reconstruction of Namhansansung in 2009. However, as reconstruction of historical assets should be based on thorough historical evidences. Therefore, more detail researches by a indicator analysis are left for the topic of future studies.