The Study on the costumes in The Eldest Son of the Crown Prince(왕세손) Chac-Rae-Do-Gam Eui-gue(책례도감의궤)

조선시대 왕세손 책례도감의궤에 나타난 복식에 관한 연구

  • 이민주 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Published : 1998.09.01

Abstract

The eldest son of the crown prince is very important social status next to the crown prince deciding fundamentals of a state in Chosun dynasty which laying stress royal authority. Accordingly, Chakbong(冊封) of the eldest son of the crown prince has been done independently like as Chakrei(冊禮) of the crown prince. The existig record of Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. The existing record of Charkrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince are Hyunjongwangseon(顯宗王世孫), Euisoseson(懿昭世孫), Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Hungjongwangseson(憲宗王世孫) of 4 books for Chakreidogameuigue(冊禮都監儀軌) being preserved in Kyujangkak(奎章閣). The transition of classified clothes are stated on Wangse sonchakreidogameuiguebanchado(王世孫冊禮都監儀軌班次圖) for Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. Its details are as below. Finally, there is no changes in constitution of the costume of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮) called as Ssanggodong(雙童髮)·Gongjungchak(空頂 )·Ojangbok(五章服) on documentary records depsitefo no explanation of Banchado(班次圖). Secondly, The classified clothes of the eldes sion of the crown prince Hcakreibanchado(冊禮班次圖) are on . We have acknowledged that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Dangbukwanwon(堂部官院) has been changed from Heugrib(黑笠) to Samo(紗帽) since Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Euibok(衣服) from Chungpo(靑袍) to Nokdanryung(綠團領), the costume of Euijangsu(儀仗手) from Chunggun(靑巾) to Whangchorib(黃草笠) and changed again to Hongpimoja(紅皮帽子), Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). Also we know that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Kyogun(轎軍) has been changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Hongpo(紅袍), that of Suri(書吏) changed from Chungeui(靑衣) to Huekeui(黑衣). Accordingly, the transition of costume color to red stands for the briliance. Thirdly, regarding the constitution of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮), that of Euisoseson(懿昭世孫) & Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫) are same for Unggolta(態骨朶), Youngjagi(令字旗), Keumdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Mojul( 節), Jaksun(雀扇), Chungkae(靑蓋), Chungyangsol(靑陽率). In case of Hunjongseson(懿昭世孫), Baktakgi(白澤旗) is added. On Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Chungilsol(靑日率) and Kiringi(麒麟旗) are added. However, we know that the constitution of the eldestson of the crown prince Hunjong(憲宗) Chakrei(冊禮) is quite different that of previous constitution. i.e. : Hongae(紅蓋), Baktakgi(白澤旗), Samkaggi(三角旗), Kagdangi(角端旗), Byukbonggi(碧鳳旗), Jujakgi(朱雀旗), Kuemdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Eunribgwa(銀立瓜), Kuemhwanggwa(金 瓜), Eunhwhanggwa(銀 瓜), Kuemwolbu(金鉞斧), Bongsun(鳳扇), Huegkae(黑蓋). Also the kinds of Eujanggi(儀仗旗) are various which are similar to the constitution of The Crown Prince(世子) Chakrei(冊禮).

Keywords