• 복식
• /
• 제52권6호
• /
• pp.25-39
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to look into dressing practices at the Woinarodo region in terms of ordinary and ritual clothes. Men wore Bqji(trousers) and Jeokori(jackets) as their plain clothes and sometimes Jangsam mid Durumaki(topcoat). During the period of Japanese colony, men wore Western-style clothes. For women it was basic to wear Chima(skirts) and Jeokori. And they preferred Momppe rather when in Japanese rule. In arrangements for their head, men put on gut, and had their hair cut during Japanese nile. Women laid a bundle of their braided hairs on the head or braided their hair, while married women did their hair up in a chignon during the ruling period People of the region put on straw and leather shoes, and then rubber ones since the late 1930s. Hand weaving was a major means of living for women at the region. Ramie, hemp and cotton were mainly weaved by hand. Starching was applied mainly to ramie and cotton. Glues for starching were made of raw rices, cooked rices, wheat flour or gloiopeltis tenax. For ritual clothes, especially in wedding, bridegrooms arranged themselves with Samokwandae and then Put on Baji, Jeokori, Durumaki and Danryung. But they Put on Western-style dresses as the liners of Danryung, and wear Nambawi Rather than the Samo after korean independence from Japanese rule. Bridges wore Chima, Jeokori and Wonsam and Chokdoori and covered their face with Hansam Wonsam did not be worn any longer after Korean independence from the rule. Shrouds for funeral ceremony were manufactured with silks, cotton and hemp, when the chief mourner wore hempen hoods and funeral robes, while women, Chima, made of hemp. and any type of Jeokori.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권4호
• /
• pp.162-175
• /
• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 복식
• /
• 제31권
• /
• pp.131-144
• /
• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok and Sangbok in the system of official outfit of the Koryo dyn-asty which has not yet fully studied in the history of Koren dress and its ornaments. Even in this difficult circumstances the sys-tem of dress and its ornaments can be under-stood with the help of remaining Buddhi-stliterature. Thus the system of official outfit in the Koryo dynasty has been studied here with some documentary records such as Koryo-dokyung Koryosa-yeobokji (The His-tory of Dress And Its Ornaments in The Koryo Dynasty) and so on. As the Koryo dynasty de-veloped her international relationships continu-ously with her neighbouring nation which were geographically closely connected so the systems of official outfit in the Chinese dyn-asty of Sung had to be studied and compared with, In the Koryo dynasty the same four colour system of purple red, deep red and green had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 not using the blue colour from the four colour system of purple Chinese red green and blue of the Sung dynasty. The four colour system of purple deep red green and black under the regin of the King Euijong was exactly the same as that of official outfit of the Sung dynasty in he year of 1078 the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae is a sure sign of influence of the system of Sung dynasty. Even though Koryo was invaded by Yuan druing the period of the regin of the King Chungyul the four colour system was not changed of purple deep red. green and black along with the same Dae-sudanryung(long sleeve and round collar). In 1387 the thirteenth year of the King Woo of the Koryo dynasty Pumdae was used ofor different official ranks and the sys-tem of wearing Samo and Dayung was established for the official outfit of every government officers.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권3호
• /
• pp.108-123
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate costumes worn by high government officials which are illustrated in Tamna Sullyeokdo at the era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty. The findings of the study are as fellows: 1. Tamna Sullyeokdo showed that Moksa wore an simplified version of Jobok at a congratulatory ceremony. They wore Sibok at such events as examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. Particularly at Yeonhyang, Samo was decorated with some red flowers. The officials wore Yungbok when they were participated in military training, hunting or arrow shooting competitions. They wore Pyeonbok when they go on a trip 2. Pangwan wore Sibok when they took an examination. They wore Yungbok during military training while they wore Pyeonbok during Tamseung. 3. Hyeongam wore Sangbok at a congratulatory ceremony. When they take part in military training, examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang, those officials wore Sibok. They also wore Yungbok during military training, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. They wore Jurip decorated with some red flowers during Yeonhyang. And they wore Pyeonbok when they were inspecting military training of Seongjeonggun. 4. Gungwan wore Yungbok at every events. They wore Jurip decorated with Hosu and Jeonrip on their head, and wore Cheolrik during military drills, arrow shooting competitions, examinations, Jinsang, or Tamseung. They wore Jeonip decored with red flowers during Yeonhyang. During regular military trainings, those officials wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Cheolrik and Jeonbok. During Tamseung, they wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Jeonbok with Jungchimak or a set of Jeogori and Baji.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
• /
• 제17권3호
• /
• pp.1337-1340
• /
• 2016

Background: There is a noticeable change in the approach with which women nowadays seek help for diseases like breast cancer, primarily due to awareness campaigns, but what happens after surgical procedures is of great significance too. This study focused on the several psychological connotations attached to mastectomy and how the patients cope. Objective: To understand the pattern of anxiety and level of depression among Pakistani patients undergoing mastectomy. Materials and Methods: The sample size consisted of 88 patients who had undergone mastectomy at the different surgical units of the Civil Hospital, Karachi, from January 2012-December 2014; The questionnaire was administered before they were discharged i.e. within 3 days of surgical procedures. The patients were asked if they were willing to participate in this study, those who agreed signed the consent form and then we preceded by asking questions with a standardized tool. A self made questionnaire was constructed keeping in mind the nature and specification of the disease, which consisted of 20 questions related to anxiety and depression, focusing on a mixture of psychological and physiological symptoms. Results: There were a total of 88 patients out of which 36 (41%) were aged 51 to 60 years, 24 (27.2%) of the patients were in the age category of 41 to 50 years, 17 aged 61 and above (19.3%) and only 11 (12.5%) 30-40 years of age, the youngest of all the age categories. The pattern of depression and anxiety was found to be similar among all age categories, severe depression and anxiety predominating over moderate level of such symptoms, with only relatively few patients sufering mild or no depression symptoms. Conclusions: It was concluded that going through mastectomy leads to moderate to severe levels of depression and anxiety, primarily because the females feel incomplete and insecure after losing a part of themselves.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.85-97
• /
• 1990

This study investigates, through the Ka-rae-ban-cha-do(가예반차도) in the Ka-rae-do-gam­eui-gue (가예도감의궤), how the system of costume used in ceremony exchanged during the middle, late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization. The procedure of the royal marriage is also studied here. The procedures of Ka-rae were divided into the six traditional etiguettes(륙예) : Nap-che (납채) , Nap-gyng(납징), Go-gi(고기), Chaik-bi(책비), Chin-young(친영), and Dong-roe(동뢰). The change of the general structure and characteristic of the costume used in the ceremony in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do are as follows: The costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do can be divided into the Guard costume (호위복식) and the Ceremonial arms costume (의장복식). The most formal attire of the Guard costume, Yangkwan-Chobok (양관-조복) and Samo -Danryeong(사모-단령) with Huygpai(흉배) can be seem only in the Ka-rae of late king's. Of the Ceremonial arms costume, the most outstanding was Hongkun- Hongeui (홍건-홍의), which showed up in almost all Ka-rae-ban-cha-do. Heukkun-Changos$\cdot$Deogrei (흑건-창옷$\cdot$더그레) were worn as well. In the style of costume emphasis convenience and practicality rather than on beauty, because they had to carry the arms used in ceremony with them nevertheless by using primary colors it was very colorful. This costume in Ka-rae-ban-cha-do has little difference, but great changes are shown in Sunjongsunjongbi Ka-rae-ban-cha-do (순종순종비가례반차도). Most costume of the past was replaced with western hat and suit, so the duplicate state of our costume and western costume came into existence during the period of introducing western civilization.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제53권2호
• /
• pp.180-203
• /
• 2020

연구는 공신초상의 관복 제1기를 하향뿔의 사모와 잡색 단령 시기로 규정하고 성종 7년(1476) 이전에 그려진 조선 초 개국공신(1392)에서 성종 초 좌리공신(1471)까지의 공신초상 관복의 특징을 고찰한 것이다. 관복 제1기에 속하는 공신초상(이모본) 중 이제(개국), 이천우(정사·좌명), 마천목(좌명), 신숙주(정난), 설계조(정난), 그리고 이숭원(좌리) 공신초상 등 관복 표현이 비교적 적절하다고 판단되는 6점을 선정하고 관복 구성품별 조형적 특징을 살펴보았다. 조선 초 삼공신(개국·정사·좌명)의 사모는 모체는 낮고 모정은 둥글며, 사모의 하향각(下向角)은 좁고 짧은 형태였으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 사모는 모체가 높아지고 사모의 하향각도 두 배 정도로 길어졌다. 그리고 관복 제1기 공신초상의 사모뿔에는 무늬가 표현되지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 개국 초에는 단령의 색상 규정이 없었으나 대체로 옅은 색의 단령으로 표현되었다. 세종대 이후 예복용 흑단령 제도가 시작되었으나 공신초상 관복에는 흑단령 제도가 반영되지 않았으며 단종대 이후에는 담홍색 단령으로 표현되었다. 단령 겉감에는 무늬가 표현되지 않았으며, 옆트임에는 '안주름무'가 표현되었다. 단령 받침옷 답호와 철릭 역시 통일된 색상은 없었으나 정난공신 이후에는 청색 답호와 초록색 철릭을 착용하는 경향이 확인되었다. 그리고 품대는 공신의 품계를 나타내는 역할을 하였다. 단종대 이후 흉배제도가 제정되었으나 제1기 공신초상 중에는 정난공신 신숙주 초상에서만 유일하게 흉배가 표현되었다. 단령에 신는 화자는 조선 초 삼공신 초상에서는 흑화가 확인되었으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 초상에서는 백화가 확인되었다. 그리고 일부 공신초상의 흑화와 백화 솔기선 부분에 연금사로 장식한 휘(揮)가 확인되었는데 휘 장식의 화자는 3품 이상이 신던 협금화를 표현한 것임을 알 수 있었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제56권1호
• /
• pp.142-160
• /
• 2023

배표의(拜表儀)는 황제에게 보내는 외교문서인 표문(表文)에 치르던 의례로, 세종 대에 행하여진 배표의에 참여하는 사람들의 직책과 그에 따른 복식을 살펴보았다. 의례 주체자인 왕은 최고 법복인 면복을 착용하였고, 면복은 구류평천관에 구장복으로 구성된다. 왕세자와 종친, 문무백관은 조복인 양관과 적라의를 착용하였다. 왕세자의 조복은 세종 10년에 오량관에서 육량관으로 바뀌었고, 문종 즉위년에 왕세자의 면복을 받아서 단종 이후에는 팔류평천관과 칠장곤복을 착용하였다. 사행원인 사자와 종사관은 상복을 착용하였다. 사자가 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 서대, 협금화이고, 종사관이 착용한 상복은 사모에 흑단령, 흑각대, 흑피화이다. 왕의 측근에서 시종하는 별감은 공복과 상복을 착용하였다. 공복은 자건에 청단령과 흑피화, 상복은 주황초립과 직령에 조아, 흑피화로 구성되었다. 의장군은 황의장과 왕의 의장이 진열되었고, 산과 개, 수정장, 금월부를 들고 있는 자는 자건에 청의를, 전도황기는 피모자에 청의를 착용하였다. 선과 금은횡과·금은입과·금은장도는 피모자에 홍의를 착용하였다. 시위군은 갑옷과 투구에 검 또는 궁시를 갖추어 착용하였다. 공인 중 악사의 복식은 복두에 비공복, 금동혁대, 비백대대, 오피리로 구성되었고, 악생은 개책에 비수란삼, 협고, 말대, 말, 오피리로 구성되었다. 이상의 결과로 세종 대에 의례복식이 의제화되는 과정을 확인할 수 있었다. 배표의에 참여하는 왕 이하 왕세자, 문무백관, 사자, 별감, 시위군, 공인 모두 각 품계에 맞는 최고 등급의 예복을 착용하였다. 세종은 유교를 바탕으로 한 국가를 건설하고자 거듭된 논의를 거쳐 각 의례와 그에 따른 복식을 정비하였고, 배표의 복식도 직책별로 체계적으로 갖추어졌다. 세종 대에 정리된 의례복식은 예전에 규정화되어 조선 후기까지 이어질 수 있는 기틀이 되었다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.185-200
• /
• 1998

The eldest son of the crown prince is very important social status next to the crown prince deciding fundamentals of a state in Chosun dynasty which laying stress royal authority. Accordingly, Chakbong(冊封) of the eldest son of the crown prince has been done independently like as Chakrei(冊禮) of the crown prince. The existig record of Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. The existing record of Charkrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince are Hyunjongwangseon(顯宗王世孫), Euisoseson(懿昭世孫), Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Hungjongwangseson(憲宗王世孫) of 4 books for Chakreidogameuigue(冊禮都監儀軌) being preserved in Kyujangkak(奎章閣). The transition of classified clothes are stated on Wangse sonchakreidogameuiguebanchado(王世孫冊禮都監儀軌班次圖) for Chakrei(冊禮) of the eldest son of the crown prince. Its details are as below. Finally, there is no changes in constitution of the costume of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮) called as Ssanggodong(雙童髮)·Gongjungchak(空頂 )·Ojangbok(五章服) on documentary records depsitefo no explanation of Banchado(班次圖). Secondly, The classified clothes of the eldes sion of the crown prince Hcakreibanchado(冊禮班次圖) are on . We have acknowledged that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Dangbukwanwon(堂部官院) has been changed from Heugrib(黑笠) to Samo(紗帽) since Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Euibok(衣服) from Chungpo(靑袍) to Nokdanryung(綠團領), the costume of Euijangsu(儀仗手) from Chunggun(靑巾) to Whangchorib(黃草笠) and changed again to Hongpimoja(紅皮帽子), Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). Also we know that Kwanmo(冠帽) of Kyogun(轎軍) has been changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Pimoja(皮帽子) with high top, Chungeui(靑衣) changed to Hongeui(紅衣). The costume of Byulgam(別監) has been changed from Nokgun(綠巾) to Jogun( 巾), Nokpo(綠袍) changed to Hongpo(紅袍), that of Suri(書吏) changed from Chungeui(靑衣) to Huekeui(黑衣). Accordingly, the transition of costume color to red stands for the briliance. Thirdly, regarding the constitution of the eldest son of the crown prince Chakrei(冊禮), that of Euisoseson(懿昭世孫) & Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫) are same for Unggolta(態骨朶), Youngjagi(令字旗), Keumdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Mojul( 節), Jaksun(雀扇), Chungkae(靑蓋), Chungyangsol(靑陽率). In case of Hunjongseson(懿昭世孫), Baktakgi(白澤旗) is added. On Youngjowangseson(英祖王世孫), Chungilsol(靑日率) and Kiringi(麒麟旗) are added. However, we know that the constitution of the eldestson of the crown prince Hunjong(憲宗) Chakrei(冊禮) is quite different that of previous constitution. i.e. : Hongae(紅蓋), Baktakgi(白澤旗), Samkaggi(三角旗), Kagdangi(角端旗), Byukbonggi(碧鳳旗), Jujakgi(朱雀旗), Kuemdungja(金 子), Eundungja(銀 子), Eunribgwa(銀立瓜), Kuemhwanggwa(金 瓜), Eunhwhanggwa(銀 瓜), Kuemwolbu(金鉞斧), Bongsun(鳳扇), Huegkae(黑蓋). Also the kinds of Eujanggi(儀仗旗) are various which are similar to the constitution of The Crown Prince(世子) Chakrei(冊禮).

• 한국전통조경학회지
• /
• 제28권4호
• /
• pp.120-126
• /
• 2010

역사지역의 중요성이 높아지고 있는 현재, 남한산성의 종각 건립은 역사적 교육적 문화적 의의가 매우 크다. 본 연구는 남한산성 종각에 관한 연구로 문헌조사, 현지조사, 고지도 분석을 통해서 종각의 위치를 추정하고, 종과 종각의 규모와 형태를 밝혀냄으로써 현대에 종각을 재현할 때 자료로 삼고자 한다. 문헌조사, 5회에 걸친 현지조사, 고지도 분석 결과, 종각의 위치는 행궁권역의 초입인 로터리 내 지금의 오로지 찻집 부근 혹은 백제장 주차장 부근인 것으로 추정된다. 교통체계는 남문과 동문을 연결하는 308번 지방도와 종각지에서 북쪽으로 연결되는 도로의 Y 혹은 T형 교통체계의 옛 길이 있었으며, 종각에서 행궁으로 진입하는 관아거리가 있었던 것으로 추정된다. 종각의 모양은 팔작지붕이나 우진각 지붕이며, 5개의 지도 모두 사모지붕은 보이지 않았다. 종각의 방향은 동향이 3곳, 남향이 2곳인 것으로 보아 가로 세로의 크기는 별 차이가 없었던 것으로 추정되며, 가로 3칸, 세로 2칸, 총 6칸의 건물이며, 종각의 방향은 행궁의 방향과 같은 동향이었을 것으로 사료된다. 종은 천안 성거산 천흥사에 있었던 종이 천흥사가 폐사되면서 남한산성의 종으로 쓰였다는 기록이 있으므로 천흥사 종의 역사성 예술성을 고려하여 남한산성의 종의 제원으로 사용할 것을 제언한다. 본 연구는 2009년 남한산성 종과 종각의 복원을 위한 기초연구이다. 그러나 문화재는 철저한 고증에 의한 복원이 이루어져야 한다. 보다 정밀한 연구는 지표조사에 의해 추후 과제로 남겨두기로 한다.