• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.43-49
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• 2005

Recently, according as people who have sensitive skin increase, we've been giving more importance to the safety of cosmetics. Especially, preservative is known to be one of the main stimuli which cause side-effects of cosmetics. However, there have been few reports describing cell cytotoxicity, skin penetration, oil-aqueous phase partition, anti-microbial activity of preservatives and their correlation with skin irritation. The study is aimed to develop low irritable preservative system with phenoxyethanol, one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, considering various factors mentioned above. According to our results of cell cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblasts by means of MTT assay, phenoxyethanol showed the lowest cytotoxicity when compared to other preservatives tested (cytotoxicity: pro-pylparaben > butylparaben > ethylparaben > methylparaben > triclosan > phenoxyethanol), but human patch test for assessing shin primary irritation revealed that phenoxyethanol has higher skin irritation than methylparaben and triclosan. We performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse (5 ${\~}$ 8 weeks, male) to evaluate the rate of skin penetration of preservatives. From the results, we found that the higher irritable property of phenoxyethanol in human skin correlates with its predominant permeability (skin penetration: phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylfaraben > triclosan). Therefore, we made an effort to reduce skin permeability of phenoxyethanol and found that not only the rate of skin penetration of phenoxyethanol but also its skin irritation is dramatically reduced in formulas containing oils with low polarity. In the experiments to investigate the effect of oil polarity on the oil-aqueous phase partition of phenoxyethanol, more than $70\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in aqueous phase in formulas containing oils with low polarity, while about $70 {\~} 90\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in oil phase in formulas containing oils with high polarity. Also, in aqueous phase phenoxyethanol showed greater anti-microbial activity. Conclusively, it appears that we can develop less toxic preservative system with reduced use dosage of phenox-yethanol and its skin penetration by changing oil composition in formulas.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.66-77
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• 2023

Background: Along with the increase in consumer interest in and consumption of tattoo products, the controversy over harmful heavy metals associated with the use of tattoo cosmetics is also increasing. Therefore, investigation of hazardous metals in these tattoo products is needed. Objectives: This study was performed to provide useful data for establishing reasonable standards to securely manage tattoo cosmetics, tattoo stickers, and tattoo inks distributed in the market. Methods: Thirteen kinds of hazardous metal contents (Pb, As, Cd, Sb, Ni, Co, Cu, Cr, Se, Ba, Zn, Sn, and Hg) were analyzed for 23 tattoo cosmetics, ten tattoo stickers, and 16 tattoo inks. Hg was measured through the combustion-gold amalgamation method, and other hazardous metals were measured by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) after acidic decomposition using a microwave apparatus. Results: The detected ranges of Pb, As, Cd, Sb, Ni, and Hg in tattoo cosmetics were 0.07~1.18, 0.06~0.41, ND~0.07, 0.01~3.44, 0.12~2.75, and ND~0.01 ㎍/g, respectively. All of the hazardous metals detected were below the recommended maximum standards of the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. The mean amount of Pb detected in tattoo stickers for children was 0.24 ㎍/kg and Cd was not detected, meaning both metals met the recommended criteria. There was no statistically significant difference in all measured metals between children's tattoo stickers and adults' tattoo stickers. In the results of the study on the hazardous metal content of tattoo inks, four products (25%) for Pb, one product (6%) for As, 13 products (81%) for Ni, four products (25%) for Cu, and five products (31%) for Zn exceeded the recommended standards approved by the government. The highest predicted exposure amount for hazardous metals exceeding the recommended level of tattoo inks in a single tattooing was 5.69 ㎍/kg for Ni, 8.51 ㎍/kg for Zn, 0.44 ㎍/kg for Pb, 8.07 ㎍/kg for Cu, 0.44 ㎍/kg for As, and 71.36 ㎍/kg for Ba. Conclusions: It is necessary to prepare criteria for content limitation for the management of Co, Cr, Ba and Se tattoo cosmetics, and tattoo inks require thorough quality control.

• Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.587-601
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• 2020

Exposure to hazardous substances occurs through multiple pathways. Aggregated risk assessment, which includes all potential exposure pathways to a single toxicant, is necessary to prevent exposure to harmful substances. We aimed to estimate cadmium and lead exposure through various media, such as food, water, air, smoking, cosmetics, and female hygiene products. This study covered 10,733 subjects from the Seventh Korea National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey(2016, 2017). Dietary exposure was estimated using 24-hour recall data. For water and inhalational exposure, regional variations were considered. Water was classified as tap, bottled, and public water. Inhalational exposure was estimated using the '2014 Time Use Survey' based on daily lifestyle and social status. The frequency and volume of cosmetic usage were randomly approximated by sex and age. Post-menarcheal and premenopausal women were assumed to use feminine hygiene products. Non-carcinogenic aggregated risks were estimated using the Aggregate Risk Index from EPAs and the Total Exposure Hazard Index from Korean government guidelines. For carcinogenic risk assessment, excessive cancer risk was estimated. Ingestion, especially food, was the major route for both cadmium and lead exposure. Smoking was also associated with high cadmium exposure. Exposure to lead from cosmetics was remarkable but not critical. In aggregate risk assessments, median cadmium and lead exposure did not exceed the reference value. Sex, age, smoking status, and income affected exposure levels, unlike to regional variations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.3 s.52
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

Safety is one of the key issue in the regulation of cosmetics. Cosmetic Act deals with it in Korea. The guidance for the testing cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation are prepared by Korea Food and Drug Administration. Ultraviolet radiation could Induce skin damage, edema, erythema, photoaging, immune dysfunction and skin cancer. Ultraviolet radiation is classified as Group 2A(probably carcinogenic to humans) by International Agenry for Reaserch on Cancer(IARC). The in vitro methodologies for evaluating the toxic potential of ingredients reported in the literature have not yet been sufficiently validated for use in areas other than the study for mutagenicity/genotoxicity, for pre-screening for severe irritancy, for screening of phototoxicity and for evaluating the percutaneous absorption. The 3T3 neutral red uptake photoxicity test (3T3 NRU PT) was accepted as OECD toxicity guideline in 2002. The 3T3 NRU PT is an in vitro method based on a comparison of the cytotoxicitv of a chemical when tested in the presence and in the absence of exposure to a non-cytotoxic dose of UVA/visible light.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.5-20
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• 1997

War and poverty depress the consumption of cosmetics, while peace and prosperity encourage their proliferation. With the end of World War II, the US, Europe and Japan witnessed rapid growth of their cosmetic industries. The ending of the Cold War has stimulated the growth of the industry in Eastern Europe. Improved economies, and mass communication are also responsible for the fast growth of the cosmetic industries in many Asian nations. The rapid development of the cosmetic industry in mainland China over the past decade proves that changing economies and political climates can deeply affect the health of our business. In addition to war, economy, political climate and mass communication, factors such as lifestyle, religion, morality and value concepts, can also affect the growth of our industry. Cosmetics are the product of the society. As society and the needs of its people change, cosmetics also evolve with respect to their contents, packaging, distribution, marketing concepts, and emphasis. In many ways, cosmetics mirror our society, reflecting social changes. Until the early 70's, cosmetics in the US were primarily developed for white women. The civil rights movement of the 60's gave birth to ethnic cosmetics, and products designed for African-Americans became popular in the 70's and 80's. The consumerism of the 70's led the FDA to tighten cosmetic regulations, forcing manufacturers to disclose ingredients on their labels. The result was the spread of safety-oriented, "hypoallergenic" cosmetics and more selective use of ingredients. The new ingredient labeling law in Europe is also likely to affect the manner in which development chemists choose ingredients for new products. Environmental pollution, too, can affect cosmetics trends. For example, the concern over ozone depletion in the stratosphere has promoted the consumption of suncare products. Similarly, the popularity of natural cosmetic ingredients, the search of non-animal testing methods, and ecology-conscious cosmetic packaging seen in recent years all reflect the profound influences of our changing world. In the 1980's, a class of efficacy-oriented skin-care products, which the New York Times dubbed "serious" cosmetics, emerged in the US. "Cosmeceuticals" refer to hybrids of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which have gained importance in the US in the 90's and are quickly spreading world-wide. In spite of regulatory problems, consumer demand and new technologies continue to encourage their development. New classes of cosmeceuticals are emerging to meet the demands of increasingly affluent Asian consumers as we enter the 21st century. as we enter the 21st century.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.507-517
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• 2019

Rhodotorula is a group of pigment-producing yeasts well known for its intracellular biosynthesis of carotenoids such as ${\beta}-carotene$, ${\gamma}-carotene$, torulene and torularhodin. The great potential of carotenoids in applications in food and feed as well as in health products and cosmetics has generated a market value expected to reach over $2.0 billion by 2022. Due to growing public concern over food safety, the demand for natural carotenoids is rising, and this trend significantly encourages the use of microbial fermentation for natural carotenoid production. This review covers the biological properties of carotenoids and the most recent findings on the carotenoid biosynthetic pathway, as well as strategies for the metabolic engineering methods for the enhancement of carotenoid production by Rhodotorula. The practical approaches to improving carotenoid yields, which have been facilitated by advancements in strain work as well as the optimization of media and fermentation conditions, were summarized respectively.

• Toxicological Research
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.37-44
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• 2019

A major predictor of the efficacy of natural or synthetic cannabinoids is their binding affinity to the cannabinoid type I receptor ($CB_1$) in the central nervous system, as the main psychological effects of cannabinoids are achieved via binding to this receptor. Conventionally, receptor binding assays have been performed using isotopes, which are inconvenient owing to the effects of radioactivity. In the present study, the binding affinities of five cannabinoids for purified $CB_1$ were measured using a surface plasmon resonance (SPR) technique as a putative non-isotopic receptor binding assay. Results were compared with those of a radio-isotope-labeled receptor binding assay. The representative natural cannabinoid ${\Delta}^9$-tetrahydrocannabinol and four synthetic cannabinoids, JWH-015, JWH-210, RCS-4, and JWH-250, were assessed using both the SPR biosensor assay and the conventional isotopic receptor binding assay. The binding affinities of the test substances to $CB_1$ were determined to be (from highest to lowest) $9.52{\times}10^{-3}M$ (JWH-210), $6.54{\times}10^{-12}M$ (JWH-250), $1.56{\times}10^{-11}M$ (${\Delta}^9$-tetrahydrocannabinol), $2.75{\times}10^{-11}M$ (RCS-4), and $6.80{\times}10^{-11}M$ (JWH-015) using the non-isotopic method. Using the conventional isotopic receptor binding assay, the same order of affinities was observed. In conclusion, our results support the use of kinetic analysis via SPR in place of the isotopic receptor binding assay. To replace the receptor binding affinity assay with SPR techniques in routine assays, further studies for method validation will be needed in the future.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.263-274
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• 2000

Carotenoids are widely distributed natural pigments which are in an increasing demand by the market, due to their applicatins in the human food, animal feed, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. Although more than 600 carotenoids have been identified in nature, only a few are industrially important (${\beta}$-carotene, astaxanthin, lutein or lycopene). To date chemical processes manufacture most of the carotenoid production, but the interest for carotenoids of biological origin is growing since theire is an increased public concern over the safety of artificial food colorants. Although much interest and effort has been devoted to the use of biological sources for industrially important carotenoids, only the production of biological ${\beta}$-carotene and astaxanthin has been reported. Among fungi, several Mucorales strains, particularly Blakeslea trispora, have been used to develop fermentation processes for the production of ${\beta}$-carotene on almost competitive cost-price levels. Similarly, the basidiomycetous yeast Xanthophyllomyces dendrorhous (the perfect state of Phaffia rhodozyma), has been proposed as a promising source of astaxanthin. This paper focuses on recent findings on the fungal pathways for carotenoid production, especially the structure and function of the genes involved in the biosynthesis of carotenoids in the Mucorales. An outlook of the possibilities of an increased industrial production of carotenoids, based on metabolic engineering of fungi for carotenoid content and composition, is also discussed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.111-115
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• 2007

It is inevitable to use germicidal agents like parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to preserve the cosmetics. Although effective in reducing microblological contamination, chemical preservatives are irritative, allergenic and even toxic to human skin. So it is needed to decrease or eliminate usage of preservatives in cosmetic products Glycerin, butylene glycol (BG), prorylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) are widely used in cosmetics as skin conditioning agent or solvents. At high concentrations, they have antimicrobial activities, but deteriorate product quality like sensory feeling or safety. The purpose of study is to evaluate the effects of polyols on antimicrobial and preservative efficacy and confirm whether using adjusted polyols can decrease the contents of preservatives without deterioration of the quality of cosmetics. Effects of common polyols on antimicrobial activities of general preservatives were measured. BG and PG significantly (p < 0.05) increased activities of preservatives, but glycerin influenced little. It was inferred from the regression analysis of the results with S. aureus that adding 1% of PG increased activities of preservatives up to $2.1{\sim}8.4 %$ and BG improved activities of preservatives up to $1.8{\sim}8.4 %$. The challenge test results for oil in water lotions and creams showed that BG and PG improved the efficacy of preservative systems up to 40 % at a range of $5.5{\sim}9.9 %$, but glycerin had little effect on it. The measured rates of improvement were analogous to the inferences from regression analysis. It can be concluded that is possible to reduce total chemical preservatives up to 40 %, consequently improve the safety and sensory quality of cosmetics with the precision control of polyols. Added to that, using this paradigm, low preservative contents, praraben-free system, and even preservative-free systems can be expected in the near future.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.148-152
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• 2023

Soft tissue filler injection is the second most common nonsurgical cosmetic procedure. Despite the safety of fillers, as use has grown, so has the number of patients affected by adverse events. Ophthalmoplegia following cosmetic filler injection is a rare complication, mostly occurring after injection to the glabella, nasolabial fold, periorbital, and lateral nasal site. In all cases where ophthalmoplegia has been reported following fillers, patients have simultaneously experienced vision loss and other ocular symptoms. We report a case of isolated acute ophthalmoplegia following hyaluronic acid injection solely in the temple region. A 40-year-old woman, 3 hours after the procedure, presented to our hospital with left eye ophthalmoplegia, ptosis, and hypotropia. Treatment started with hyaluronidase, steroids, and anticoagulants. After 4 weeks, left eye ophthalmoplegia remained unchanged, and through a 10-week follow-up, all left ocular movements improved, and only mild hypotropia and ptosis persisted. This case report shows that ophthalmoplegia may also happen with temple region filler injections. We also review available prevention techniques and treatments to avoid such complications when performing soft tissue fillers for gaunt appearance correction.