• 제목/요약/키워드: royal princess wedding

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『화순옹주가례등록(和順翁主嘉禮謄錄)』에 나타난 가례 절차와 물목 연구 (Procedures and Items for Royal Wedding Ceremonies of Princesses on 『Hwasunongju-garyedeungrok(和順翁主嘉禮謄錄)』)

  • 김지연
    • 복식
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    • 제65권3호
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    • pp.131-150
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    • 2015
  • This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

17세기 왕자녀 가례 절차 및 복식 연구 (A Study on Procedure and Costume for a Royal Wedding Ceremony of Princes and Princesses in the 17th Century)

  • 김지연
    • 복식
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    • 제66권3호
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    • pp.162-179
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    • 2016
  • This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

어제국혼정례(御製國婚定例)(1749)에 대한 분석적(分析的) 연구(硏究) (An Analytical Study on the 'Kuk Hon Geong Rea, 1749')

  • 김상보;이성우
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제5권3호
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    • pp.287-299
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    • 1990
  • To analyse the royal marriage of Yi-Dynasty, the authors studied 'Kuk Hon Geong Rea', which is a historical record, published in 1749(King Yong-Jo), on the usage of marriage articles in the royal family. The essential steps or articles described in the record were as follows, Royal marriage of King : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, proclamation of Queen and wedding ceremony(納采) (納徵) (冊妃) (親迎 尊雁 同牢). Royal marriage of Crown Prince : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's. proclamation of Crown Princess, wedding ceremony, and bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (冊嬪) (親迎 尊雁 同牢) (朝見體). Royal marriage of Crown Princess : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, wedding ceremony, bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (尊雁 同牢) (見舅姑禮). Necessary articles for weddings were different according to royal status of the member in the royal family.

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복식 고증을 통한 복온공주 혼례 친영반차도 구현 - 여자참여자를 중심으로 - (Materialization of a Chinyoung Procession Illustration of Princess Bok-On's Wedding Based on Historical Dress Research - Focusing on women participants -)

  • 김아람;최연우
    • 복식
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    • 제64권7호
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    • pp.11-28
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    • 2014
  • Chinyoung(親迎) is one of the detailed procedures of a wedding ceremony, of which the bridegroom visits the bride's home to receive and bring her to his home. And, Procession Illustration (班次圖) is a type of drawing that shows how people of various social classes are arranged in their predetermined positions in a royal ceremony. Thus, 'Chinyoung Procession Illustration(親迎班次圖)' refers to the drawing of the march in the course of Joseon's royal wedding ceremony, in which the bridegroom receives and brings the bride to his home. This paper aims to reconstruct the Chinyoung Procession Illustration for a princess as an image, which has never been done. There are no drawings or pictures of the princesses' Chinyoung Procession, but only written records. Thus, we completed the Procession Illustration by dressing the participants in accordance with their social classes and arranging them in the march. The arrangements were based on historical records of social classes, positions, number, and costumes. As for the princesses' weddings in the late Joseon period, a total of 18 wedding records remain. We selected Princess Bok-On's (福溫公主: 1818~1832) wedding as the subject of reconstruction as it had the greatest number of participants. In addition, due to the great number of participants, this study limits its focus to the female participants, with the male participants to be examined in future research. The result confirmed that the number of participants in Princess Bok-On's Chinyoung Procession was 184, including the bride and bridegroom, and the number of female participants was 26 in total, including the princess and women placed around her. The women participants wore Rip(笠), Neoul(羅兀), Jeonmo(氈帽), Garima(加里磨), Noeui(露衣), Hwaleui(豁衣), Dangeui(唐衣), Jeogori(赤古里), Chima(赤亇), Malgun(袜裙), Daedae(大帶), Onhye(溫鞋), Dokhye(禿鞋).

가례시 절차에 따르는 조선후기의 왕실여성 복식연구 (A Study of the Royal Lady's Dress in Late Joseon Dynasty According to the King's Wedding Process)

  • 김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제59권3호
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    • pp.96-108
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    • 2009
  • This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

가례도감의궤(嘉禮都監儀軌)에 나타난 조선왕조궁중가례(朝鮮王朝宮中嘉禮)차림고(考) -1744년(年) 장조(莊祖) 헌경후(獻敬后) 1819년(年) 문조(文祖) 신정후(神貞后) 가례(嘉禮) 동뢰연(同牢宴)- (‘A Study on Wedding Feast Dishes in Gare Dogam Euigwae(1744, 1819)’)

  • 김상보;이성우
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제6권1호
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 1991
  • To analyse wedding feast dishes of royal prince of Chosun Dynasty(1744, 1819), the author studied historic book-GareDogamEuigwae, in which the wedding feast dishes of King and Prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows, 1. Arranged dishes in wedding ceremony were four kinds of table, main table, second table, third table and fourth table. That table setting was same as that of the year 1651. 2. Meal ceremonies were in sacrificial food partaking, drinking ceremony and courtesy of levee. 3. In wedding ceremony, prince and princess drank three cups of liquor. At the first cup they eat abalones soup and others in a small round table(初味), at the second cup fine noodles and others in another table(二味), at the third cup bun stuffed with fish and others in the other table(三味). 4. In sacrificial food partaking and drinking ceremony, King drank nine cups of liquor, at first cup, King eats a small boiled beef(小膳) and (初味), at second cup eats(二味), at third cup eats(三味),${\cdots}$, at nineth cup, King eats a soup, a large boiled beef(大膳) and fruits. 5. Dish materials and quantities used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1819 was same as that of the year 1651.

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근대 민간 혼례 큰머리 양식의 궁중 양식 수용과 변용 -괴계를 중심으로- (The Adaptation and Transformation of the Royal Style "Keunmeori", Grand Headdress in Modern Civil Wedding -Focusing on Goegye-)

  • 오선희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제48권2호
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    • pp.382-396
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    • 2024
  • "Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

국립 고궁박물관 활옷 수본에 관한 연구 (A Study on Embroidery Design Patterns of Hwal-ot at the National Palace Museum of Korea)

  • 권혜진;홍나영
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제32권8호
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    • pp.1255-1263
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    • 2008
  • Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善)의 1837년 「혼수발기」 속 부마 편복(便服) 고찰 (Namnyeong-wie, Yun Eui-Seon's Everyday Clothes included in Wedding Gift List in 1837)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제54권3호
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    • pp.68-89
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    • 2021
  • 헌종 3년(1837) 순원왕후(純元王后, 1789~1857)는 막내딸 덕온공주(德溫公主, 1822~1844)의 8월 가례를 맞아 부마 남녕위(南寧尉) 윤의선(尹宜善, 1823~1887)에게 혼수품을 내렸다. 그 물목을 적은 「혼수발기」가 국립한글박물관에 소장되어 있는데 「혼수발기」를 통해 19세기 전기의 부마 편복에 관해 살펴본 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 「발기」 속 편복 품목을 대략 36종으로 정리하고 용도별로 ① 상의류 9종, ② 하의류 8종, ③ 관모와 수식 10종, ④ 허리띠와 주머니 4종, ⑤ 부채 3종과 신발 2종으로 분류하였다. 둘째, 남녕위의 편복 중 가장 중요한 의복은 남광사 도포와 남광초 창의(대창의)로 구성된 통상예복이었다. 그 외에 창의 2점(남광수사·청저포), 중치막 1점(남생경광주), 쟁친 상침긴옷 1점(옥색 쌍문초), 모시 홑창옷 1점(소창의), 겹저고리 2점(보라색 설사, 저포), 당포적삼에 생경광주한삼과 저포한삼이 있었고 하의류로는 겹바지와 고의(홑바지), 당포 행전과 버선 2켤레, 초록사 요대, 옥색사 대님이 있었다. 셋째, 관모와 부속품으로 밀화영과 사영을 갖춘 흑립, 정자관·동파관, 받침모 탕건과 복건이 있었으며 수발(修髮)에 필요한 상투관과 세 종류의 동곳(산호·밀화·순금), 옥관자를 갖춘 망건이 있었다. 특히 정자관과 동파관은 18세기 이후 신분별 구분이 있던 관모인데 남녕위에게는 정자관과 동파관을 함께 보냈다. 넷째, 홍색 계통의 세조대와 부싯돌을 담을 쌈지와 사낭, 그리고 옥선추를 장식한 선자, 사직물로 만든 모선, 소접(小摺) 등의 부채류, 운혜와 당혜 신발도 포함되어 있었다. 마지막으로, 『덕온공주가례등록』의 복식 기록과는 달리 「혼수발기」의 복식 기록이 당시의 실제적인 복식 명칭임을 확인하였으며 19세기 전기 부마 편복의 구체적인 구성을 확인할 수 있었다.

한국(韓國).몽고복식(蒙古服飾)의 상관성(相關性) 연구(硏究)(II) - 고려시대(高麗時代)의 몽고침략기(蒙古侵略期)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study On Interrelationship Between Korean And Mongolian Costume Laying Emphasis On The Age Of Mongolia's Invasion Upon Corea)

  • 손경자
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.15-42
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    • 1991
  • A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.

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