• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.182-205
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• 2023

1795년 화성 행차를 정리한 『원행을묘정리의궤』에서 도식과 기록을 통해 왕실 채화의 용도와 사용방법이 비로소 체계적으로 정리되었다는 것을 알게 되었다. 봉수당 진찬에 사용된 채화의 용도를 구분하고 형태, 사용자, 사용방법을 고찰한 결과는 다음과 같다. 조선시대 채화 기록을 고찰한 결과 전기에는 금·은·견사 등의 고급 재료로 만들었으나, 후기에는 재료에서 종이의 비중이 높았다. 채화의 척도는 예기척 28.4cm를 적용하였다. 채화의 용도는 관모를 장식하는 수공화(首拱花), 공간을 장식하는 준화(樽花), 잔칫상을 장식하는 상화(床花)로 구분되었다. 사권화(絲圈花)는 왕실 구성원의 수공화인데, 상품(上品)의 것을 어잠사권화(御簪絲圈花)라 하였다. 봉수당 진찬에서 정조와 혜경궁이 어잠사권화를 사용했고, 관모의 오른쪽에 꽂았다. 백관 이하의 수공화는 홍도이지화(紅桃二枝花)가 사용되었고, 관모의 왼쪽에 꽂았다. 홍도이지화는 수공화의 가장 기본적인 형태로, 관직의 유무나 높고 낮음에 따른 차등이 없었다. 악공과 여령의 수공화는 백관 이하의 수공화보다 비싸고 화려했다. 정재에 따라 관모에 수공화를 여러 개 꽂기도 하였다. 준화는 2개의 용준(龍樽)에 홍도화와 벽도화를 꽂아서 2개의 주칠한 아가상(阿架床)에 각각 올렸다. 아가상과 용준을 홍색 무명 얼기로 서로 묶어서 준화가 넘어지지 않도록 고정하였다. 정조·혜경궁·군주들만 사용한 상화는 대수파련, 중수파련, 목단화, 월계화, 사계화, '별(別)'자가 붙은 홍도화 등이었다. 내빈과 신하들이 사용한 상화는 소수파련과 홍도화였다. 봉수당 진찬에서 수공화·준화·상화에 가장 많이 사용된 것은 복숭화꽃[도화(桃花)]으로, 복숭아는 장수와 벽사의 의미가 있었다. 그 외에 사용된 여러 종류의 꽃과 문양은 길상적인 의미였다. 이상의 연구 결과가 정조대 채화의 용도별 특징과 사용방법에 관해서 이해하고, 궁중잔치 재현행사와 전통문화콘텐츠 및 궁중채화 제작에 도움이 될 것으로 기대한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.7-20
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• 2007

Bong-amsa Temple is a special temple in the custody of Jogye sect, a branch of Buddhism in Korea. Due to limited public access to this temple, its Geungnakjeon(paradise shrine) has been little known to outside. But it is known that the Geungnakjeon has been not yet explored from academic standpoints in terms of its historical establishment as well as applications, and it would be two-storied wooden pagoda or the like. In order to examine its historical establishment, this study investigated historical records related to Bong-amsa Temple and its intrinsic architectural style. As a result, it was estimated that the building was established around the transitional period ranging from the late Koryo dynasty to the early Joseon dynasty. And it was found that the Geungnakjeon is not the two-storied wooden pagoda, but the unique building including an incidental component called Chayanggan(遮陽間; a sort of stepped penthouse) in Korea. In order to examine its possible applications, this study compared this building with other Buddhist funeral articles in forms similar thereto, such as Buddhist pagoda(僧塔), sarira container(舍利器) and Gamnodo(甘露圖) which depicts Byeoknyeon Daeban(碧蓮臺畔; a palanquin carrying malignant spirit). Then, this study estimated its possible applications on the basis of relevant historical literatures. As a result, it was found that this building was used as Wondang(願堂; a sort of Buddhist prayer house) to wish royal family's going to Nirvana after death, and it was not Confucian-style architecture popularized in the era of Joseon dynasty, but Buddhist-style architecture built widely from the era of Koryo dynasty to the early Joseon dynasty.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.7-28
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• 2011

This study intends to investigate the measuring scales, locations and scales through arrangement plans for a research on construction plans. Through an analysis of the artifacts-measuring scales, the relation of two scales found, which further helped suppose the measuring scales applied during the foundation period. Southern dynasties-scale was still used even after the capital was transferred to Sabi till Tang-scale was introduced. Tang-scale was used for Buddhist temples mostly founded in the 7th century. On the other hand, Goguryo-scale seemed to be used almost at the same period as Southern dynasties-scale used, but it seemed that Goguryo-scale disappeared earlier than Southern dynasties-scale. The locations of Buddhist temples could be classified into mountains, flatlands and mountain valley. Buddhist temples founded in mountains were mostly small-sized, but ones located on flatlands could secure flat fields through mounding operations. In addition, through location conditions of Neungsa and Wangheungsa, it was possible to find out the district setting of Sabi Capital Castle. Finally, the expansion range of Buddhist temples were found to be towards the east and the west. As for the scales of temples according to such conditions of location, it was found a similarity in Temple sites. In general, it was possible to assume that the scales of Buddhist temples tended to be expanded along with spatial expansion and there were regular systems in Buddhist temples related to the Royal family. Through the analysis of arrangement plans between individual buildings, it was found that the basic arrangement of Gate-Pagoda-Main Hall-Lecture Hall was preserved, but the proportion of distances between individual buildings varied depending on cases. As a result, there were differences between scales of entire building sites, construction subjective influences and master plan for each location of a Buddhist temple.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.114-121
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• 2013

관음현상기는 세조가 미지산 상원사에 행차했을 때, 담화전(曇華殿) 상공에서 목격한 백의관세음보살의 화현 모습을 최항에게 일러 찬(讚)한 글이다. 관음현상기에는 화공이 그린 백의관음화현도가 붙어 있는데, 이 그림으로 인해서 조선 초기의 상원사의 모습을 알 수가 있게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 관음현상기에 실린 기록과 그림을 통해서 조선 초기 상원사의 경관성을 살피는 것에 주목하였다. 연구 결과, 조선 초기 상원사의 건물 배치나 공간구성 그리고 건물의 형식이나 조경처리에 있어서 다른 산지 사찰과는 다른 특별성이나 차별성을 확인할 수 있었다. 이러한 특별성이나 차별성은 상원사가 왕실의 원찰이라는 사격을 가지고 있었기 때문에 가능했던 것으로 보인다. 특히, 조경적 측면에서 볼 때, 경석은 주목되는 바가 큰데, 그것은 사찰조경이 주로 물을 재료로 해서 이루어졌다는 지금까지의 생각을 보완케 만드는 자료가 될 수 있기 때문이다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.9-26
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• 1998

Architectural Drawing has been settled down the very effective means of exchanging their architectural ideas and data on the construction process. However, it was not easy to conserve the original drawings, which aims had been accomplished, at the same time, building was built. The same phenomena were occurred in our traditional architectural construction project, especially before pre-modern age. And do not understand soundly building documentation accepted by craftsmen in the period of earliest Chosun dynasty and how to present their idea and information of architectural as means of sketches and drawings. So, this paper aimed to clarify the drawing occurrence and the development steps of their rendering, representation methodology in the construction process in Sannungdogam-Uuigue, which were the construction documents of government based on the royal family's tomb and building projects in the late Chosun Dynasty. There are three development stages of architectural space representation, pre-drawing stage, drawing occurring stage and drawing settlement stage, They had been adapted unique drawing presentation method which were drawn by artisan, so called Doseol(圖說)and Painter Hwawon(畵員) The results are 1. In the Pre-drawing stage, they had been used the systematic explanation method of character 2. Do not have the evidence of adapting drawing before 17th centry, it was originated in early 17's century started with Onga(甕家). Onga's Drawing was drawn very elementary skill, and became development, settlement and standardization of their drawing representation around 19th century 3. The drawing presented by client's recognition view of space and building, integrated data within a sheet of drawing with practical and hierarchy and using graphic and description.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권26호
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• pp.165-188
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• 2005

From the ancient to these days, there have been used many kinds of pigment which have two types that are inorganic pigment and organic pigment. At the ancient times, natural pigment had been used but the artificially mixed pigment has been used in modern times. By the way, searching for studies has been studied recently, it would be said the ancient pigments such as Danchung, Wall painting and Mural painting are the mainthema. However, studies about the pigments used in modern pictured relics have rarely can be found. Therefore, this analysis of Ilweolokdo would be important at the point of the pigments used in pictures of royal family in modern times and the results can be briefly summarized as below; Firstly, the results of qualitative analysis of the pigments that base or all pigments of picture was detected components of Ca, Fe and As, this results meaning that picture was used filler and basic paint. Secondly, a result of the analysis on the composition elements of the pigments shows that the main components in their composition are ;White - Lead Cyanamide($2PbCO_3$.$Pb(OH)_2$) or Titanium Oxide($TiO_2$)Blue - Ultramarine($2(Na_2O$.$Al_2O_3$ .$2Si_O2$).$Na_2S_2$)Green - Emerald green($C_2H_3A_s3Cu_2O_8$)Gold - Gold(Au), Red-Red Lead($Pb_3O_4$) or Cinnabar(HgS)Black - Carbon(C)Thirdly, X-ray diffraction analysis of crystalline structure for the blue and green pigment peeling off in picture shows that the components of blue pigment is Ultramarine($2(Na_2O$.$Al_2O_3$ .$2Si_O2$).$Na_2S_2$) and green pigment is Emerald green($C_2H_3A_s3Cu_2O_8$). Especially, microcrystalline structure of the green pigment was the shape like a cross section of wood. Consequently, we knew through the analysis of qualitative and microcrystallinestructures seen on the cross section of analyzed pigments layer that the all pigments used in the Ilweoloakdo is possible to use synthetic pigments in modern.