• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제48호
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• pp.117-145
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• 2012

"공사견문록"은 정재륜(鄭載崙, 1648-1723)이 엮은 필기류이다. 177년 경 후세에 모범이 되고 징계될 만한 일을 골라 엮었다. 모두 310여 개 정도의 이야기가 실려 있는데 그 중 1/4이 여성에 관한 이야기이다. "공사견문록"에 나오는 여성들의 유형은 네 가지 정도로 요약할 수 있다. 통찰하는 여성, 근신하는 여성, 권세 남용하는 여성, 청탁하는 여성, 등이다. 통찰하는 여성은 외부 또는 내부적으로 자신을 관찰한다. 이면에 숨겨진 진실을 파악하여 지혜롭게 현실에 대응한다. 근신하는 여성은 대개 왕실의 여성들이다. 조선시대는 가정의 안정을 국가 안위의 토대로 삼았다. 그러므로 왕실 여성들은 '왕실'이라는 가정을 안정하는 데에 '근심함'을 우선으로 삼았고 그것으로써 국가 안정에 기여하고자 했다. 권세를 남용하는 여성은 남성이 가진 권력을 이용한다. 자기보다 신분이 높거나, 남성들에게 권세를 부리며, 이를 통해 국사에 간여한다. 청탁하는 여성들은 목적을 위해 복잡한 인맥을 동원하며 남성을 속이며 청탁한다. 여성들의 이런 행동은 공적인 일의 공정성, 신뢰성을 해친다. 이러한 여성의 모습을 담고 있는 "공사견문록"은 여성생활사 측면에서 다음과 같은 의의를 지닌다. 첫째, 왕실여성들-대비, 왕비, 공주, 후궁 등-의 생활 모습, 의식, 왕실 여성의 문화 양상 등을 보여준다. 둘째, 후대 여성이야기를 기록하거나 재서술하는 기초 자료이다. 이긍익은 "연려실기술"에서 다시 기록했다. 특히 한보향의 행적에 대해 김려는 <한숙원전>을, 성해응은 <한보향 이야기> 등의 제목으로 다시 쓰기도 했다. 셋째, 조선시대 궁녀들의 이야기를 담고 있다. 그리하여 궁녀들의 생활, 정치 사건이나 시사에 대한 궁녀들의 의식 등을 고찰하는 데에 유용하다. 넷째, 인물을 소개하는 데에 있어 여성을 중심으로 한다. 그래서 여성 중심의 인맥, 혼맥 등을 파악할 수 있게 한다. 다섯째, 여성들의 문학 작품과 문학 활동 양상을 보여준다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.51-70
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• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-63
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• 2013

Objective : Nursing system in traditional society depended on more private service in family than public service. In Chosun dynasty, there were several books mentioned private nursing srvice to author's family. Method : We tried to find out mentions in books above and analyze them by point of nursing services. Result : In Nehoon nursing was considered as a view of royal family services, in Gyenyeoseo as a view of neo-Confucianism, in Gyubanggasa as a view of obedience to parents and in Gyuhapchongseo there were lessons to author's daughter and in-laws about private nursing. Conclusion : In traditional society, women's activities were limited. However, there were several roles, especially private nursing services to their family through this bibliographical records.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2011

Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.67-86
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• 2007

Choseon Dynasty, from many aspects, saw the institutional establishment of its royal palaces in the 17th and 18th century, with 'donggwol (east palace)' as the most representative form in the era. In that period, palaces were managed in the best way that fits the royal etiquette and order to maintain the Confucian framework of the times. While the royal palace was the place for the king to conduct state affairs, it was also a compound for the royal family to lead a life in. Since the royal family was also based on the Confucian system, women in the royal palace seldom revealed their existence to outside world. Yet daebi,(a Queen Mother) who was often called 'dongjo,' enjoyed the highest level of honor not only as a member of the royal family but in the hierarchical order of the dynasty. As they often engaged themselves in political affairs, daebi raised their reputation through rites and rituals. So, in the 16th century, they largely used Changgyeong-gung palace in the eastern part of the royal compound since they sometimes had to go out of the royal residence. While it was called 'dongjo' because it was seated in the eastern part, it was also used as a word symbolizing daebi. And, therefore, it has become a general principle of royal palaces to build the palace for daebi in the eastern wing of the compound. However, the residence for daebi was not always built in the eastern part in the 17th and 18th century and, instead, edifices for daebi were sometimes erected in several points within the royal compound. Beside, daebi's residence in this period had additional spaces for ceremonies since they had a number of official events there. Construction of daebi's residences in this era was not confined to the symbolic institutions and they became the peculiar palaces with specific characteristics for official ceremonies of the queen mothers. Consequently, it could be said that the architectural style of dongjo, which was the place of the supreme female in the hierarchical order, stemmed from donggwol where daebi spent the longest time of the royal life.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1347-1360
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• 2009

Historical compliance with economics in a political interchange accepts the elements of multiculturalism to develop a new field in the research with China. New research seeks to point out the characteristics of the Baekje dress style in relation to studies on East Asian fashion that observe the role and place of Baekje apparel. This study reveals the formation background of Baekje dress culture. Examined are the cognitive world of Baekje dress culture. The study reveals the form of the three Baekje Kings and royal dress.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.22-34
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify the origin and the meanings of the word ho-su(胡袖) of Chosun dynasty period. Findings of this study can be summerized as follows : The original meaning of the word ho-su(胡袖) is a name of round sleeves. Later it was used as a name of a dress with round sleeves. The word ho-su as a name of a dress is an abbrecviated form of ho su so o za(好袖小 子) of a previous period. The word jyo go ri(赤古里) in historical documents is anothor name of so o za(小 子). Wearing the ho-su(胡袖) was restricted to royal family women. It was included in royal women\`s wedding garments as ordinary use. Colors of this dress was used as a means of differentiating the rank and position of the wearer.