• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.44-63
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the process to manufacture costume design of main female characters of TV historical drama and suggest the costume, which is developed with contemporary taste. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The study results were as follows. The costume was decided by researching historical investigation material on the basis of synopsis, grasping director's basic intention, setting design direction, preparing design map of each character, selecting style, detail, fabric and color, manufacturing sample and performing camera test. The design concept of was Modern & Chic & Clean, short & fitted chogori, chima with wide & abundant cocoon silhouette, clean & bright colors and 100% silk fabric. For the design discrimination of royal semi-formal costume, color was used to symbolize character and pattern was used to symbolize social status. In addition, detail change was adopted depending on the body shape of actor and there was almost no design discrimination in silhouette and fabric. Petticoat of the west, modernization of transitional pattern and change of detail were adopted as design elements to add contemporary taste.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.139-153
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.655-670
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1014-1024
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• 2009

The cultural content industry can be stimulated by the production of content based on Korean traditional culture such as Korean court culture. At present, the use of royal costumes of various Korean dynasties for content creation is rare. Less than ten government-supported projects managed by the Korea Culture & Content Agency (KOCCA) are related with Korean royal costumes. Only a handful of tourism-related cultural products (e.g., souvenirs and theme parks) are related to this subject. Fortunately, there are many events that demonstrate traditional court ceremonies; however, there is a need for more investment in academic research to ensure accurate reproduction. There are a number of issue in utilizing traditional royal costumes to produce cultural content that include: a lack of understanding the importance of Korean royal costumes, discrepancies of the content produced based on the historical context, a lack of public knowledge or support, and the lack of the historical accuracy of reproduced content. In order to benefit the most from royal costumes, this article suggests recreating the costumes as a source for further content creation, the development of a database to store information by design features and itemized topics, along with the active support of the government.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.738-754
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• 2020

As a cultural feature of, the relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong are suitable design content for applying with sophisticated production and delicate molding laser cutting techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop modern bag designs using relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong of Baekje using laser-cutting techniques. First, the historical background and meaning of Baekje's cultural content were explored. Second, the principle of laser-cutting techniques were explored, laser-cutting techniques applied to modern fashion and bag design were examined, and bag design characteristics were analyzed. Third, based on prior research, the criteria for the development of bag design, from which eight bag design were developed that combine modern popularity and functionality utilizing Baekje cultural content and using laser-cutting techniques to apply the textile design developed by researchers in 2013 (modified to match laser-cutting techniques). The research results show that bag were clutch, tote, shoulder, and mini. Gold, silver, brown, beige, and navy colors were arranged, based on black/white contrast. Cow, lambskin, washed snakeskin, mesh, and Saffiano leather were used. For the pattern-applying technique, this study showed that a new digital technique, which is laser-cutting techniques could be combined with contemporary bag designs. Moreover, a bag design was developed that has a modern sense and functionality as well as Korean formativeness, which is significant.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.61-74
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• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.51-66
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to fashion-design the image of Cleopatra on the basis of Cleopatra's characteristic, clothing and its symbolic meaning shown in movie . In movie , Cleopatra(69B.C-30B.C) is described as passionate, intelligent, dignified person and even as enchantress. Costume that Cleopatra wears compound the type of ancient Egyptian costume in New Kingdom, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. Their color and pattern also symbolizes religion by adding ancient Egyptian myths to show the absolute royal authority. Therefore, design concepts, determined on the base of Cleopatra's characteristic and symbol meaning, are applied to make creative costume with Cleopatra's image of God Isis. In order to show Cleopatra's dignity, confidence, territorial ambition, black is used as a general base color. To represend Cleopatra's passion and the image of Isis, red is used. And the word 'Kemeto' represents all these symbols. As a whole, dress named 'Kemeto of Cleopatra' is designed and created.