After the Industrialism, long-lasting issues about Post-Industrialism have closely been associated with our daily lives. The keyword of Post-Industrialism could be regarded as Immateriality, which is represented by service, Information and knowledge. In the Post-Industrial society, the major role of Post-Industrial design trend is a mediator to deliver the immateriality to users. Additionally, the maturity of technologies and product life cycle have leaded users to the design trend that is free from the technologies and functions of products. In this context, the most powerful trend of the Post-Industrial design could be "metaphor design" and "poetic dimension". The similarity of these two styles is situated in the romanticism -reflection of symbol and metaphor. However, the appearance of Apple's iMac in 1998, poetic dimension, which uses transparent plastic and colourful, pleasurable 'blobjects' has dominated the post-industrial design trend.
This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.
Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775-1851) has been widely regarded as the most original and brilliant English landscape painter in the 19th century. Admitted to the Royal Academy Schools in 1789, Turner was a precocious artist and gained the full membership of the prestigious Royal Academy in 1802 at the age of 27. Already in the 1800s he was recognised as a pioneer in taking a new and revolutionary approach to the art of landscape painting. Among his early works made in this period, The Shipwreck, painted in 1805, epitomizes the sense of sublime Romanticism in terms of its dramatic subject-matter and the masterly display of technical innovations. Of course, the subject of shipwreck has a long standing history. Ever since human beings first began seafaring, they have been fascinated as much as haunted by shipwrecks. For maritime societies, such as England, shipwreck has been the source of endless nightmares, representing a constant threat not only to individual sailors but also to the nation as a whole. Unsurprisingly, therefore, shipwreck is one of the most popular motifs in art and literature, particularly during the 18th and 19th centuries. Yet accounts, images and metaphors of shipwreck have taken diverse forms and served different purposes, varying significantly across time and between authors. As such, Turner's painting registers a panoply of diverse but interconnected contemporary discourses. First of all, since shipwreck was an everyday occurrence in this period, it is more than likely that Turner's painting depicted the actual sinking in 1805 of the East India Company's ship 'The Earl of Abergavenny' off the coast of Weymouth. 263 souls were lost and the news of the wreck made headlines in major English newspapers at the time. Turner's painting may well have been his visual response to this tragedy, eyewitness accounts of which were given in great quantity in every contemporary newspaper. But the painting is not a documentary visual record of the incident as Turner was not present at the site and newspaper reports were not detailed enough for him to pictorially reconstruct the entire scene. Rather, Turner's painting is indebted to the iconographical tradition of depicting tempest and shipwreck, bearing a strong visual resemblance to some 17th-century Dutch marine paintings with which he was familiar through gallery visits and engravings. Lastly, Turner's Shipwreck is to be located in the contexts of burgeoning contemporary travel literature, especially shipwreck narratives. The late 18th and early 19th century saw a drastic increase in the publication of shipwreck narratives and Turner's painting was inspired by the re-publication in 1804 of William Falconer's enormously successful epic poem of the same title. Thus, in the final analysis, Turner's painting is a splendid signifier leading the beholder to the heart of Romantic abyss conjoing nightmarish everyday experience, high art, and popular literature.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.13
no.2
/
pp.35-46
/
2011
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of mass media on women's clothing image, make-up image, and hair image. The subjects of the study were 306 women who lived in Gyeongnam area. Data were collected during June in 2009. Statistical analysis used in this study were frequency, F-test, t-test, Duncan test, factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, correlation coefficient, and multiple regression. The results of this study were as follows. The mass media according to the demographic characteristic of women showed significant difference. Three factors of clothing image were titled as elegance, youth, and visibility. Three factors of make-up image were titled as modern, romanticism, and mediocrity. Four factors of hair image were titled as attraction, individuality, gentleness, and cuteness. The mass media resulted in correlation with the clothing image, make-up image, and hair image. The mass media had a influence on the clothing image, make-up image, and hair image. The study results are highly expected to be used as useful sources in one's image formation and a marketing plan.
This study investigated and compared regional features of Aalto's buildings and Gaudi's on the assumption that their designs are based on the regional backgrounds. For it, two churches of each one we selected and analyzed about five divided spaces like disposition, the exterior, plan, structure and introduction and use of the sunlight. As result of analysis, following conclusions are induced: first, Aalto's church design and Gaudi's we similar in which they reflected the thought of regionalistic design. Nevertheless they are deferred in which Aalto accepted the international functionalism but Gaudi rejected it due to his deep belief. Second, they followed the tradition of the regional architecture. Third, both of them took in consideration the nature, but due to the difference of the contexts they are deferred in its use. Finally, both gave importance to the sunlight. But Aalto is from the country where lacks the light while Gaudi is from the country where abounds the light, so its use is different. This investigation shows several possibilities of design under the influence of its regional culture, which gets more important in this century.
The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.
Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.
Architectural essence of John Ruskin's discourse can resolve itself into natural beauty, craftmanship, and truth in structure, surface, and process. His theories became disciplines of modern English school, Art and Craft and Free architecture, in aspects of organic architecture, morality, and rationality. These concepts disseminated continental Art Nouveau and also became it's basic principles. But his empirical theories hated use of machine, and should find a ideal model in medieval romanticism of Gothic. Anti-machine, as a instictive guideline of English modern architecture, couldn't cope with the industrialization of 20th century, and Gothic revival interfered with creating a new style. Muthesius' discourses were taught by the power of group movements and modern concept of form in English school, originally by Ruskin. But he accepted the potentiality of machine and mass production, and stressed creating the new German style suitable with machine. With the progress of Deutscher Werkbund, his theories were advanced to 'quality' connected with craftmanship, to discourse on mechanical 'form', and lastly to 'standardization and type' for mass production. Mechanical functionalism of Muthesius and DWB were sophiscated and handed down to Bauhaus, and then finally helped establishment of the Modern Architecture and Internationalism. Both English and German modern architecture owed their contribution as well as limitation to Ruskin and Muthesius as theorists. Through this comparative study, we can see the priority of theory to practice, the theoretical justification based on insight for its society and future, and the practical character of theory itself.
The purpose of this dissertation is to interpret fashion through a socio-cultural phenomenon called kitsch by understanding its aesthetic characteristics and clarifying its significance in the modern consumer society and analyzing the examples of kitsch appearing in modern fashion. The following are the arguments and conclusion of this dissertation. First kitsch has negative meanings such as aesthetic inadequacy or bad tastes implying vulgar popular tastes of faked sensations just imitating elite culture and using things indiscriminately for inferior reproduction or at best the philosophical and aesthetic category that expresses the mass of people's attitudes toward life in accepting the consumer culture of the industrial society. It started from the art of romanticism accompanied by th commercializing of art with the bourgeois society background formed in the mid-19th century. Though kitsch started to prevail following the socio-cultural changes caused by the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century it is only in the late 20th century that kitsch has come tc our everyday life and has become an object of aesthetic arguments. Second formative characteristics of kitsch appearin in fashion have a cumulative inadequate romantic pleasure-seeking satirizing and multicomplex nature. Third the socio-cultural meanings of kitsch appearing in fashion are as follows: The extension of commercialism which gratifies the pleasure-seeking mass consumers the enlargement of the aesthetic category by inclining to everyday commonplace aesthetic sense the expression of one's identity through the gratification of desire and the new aesthetics of resistance and deviance by an anti-traditional and anti-elite tendency towards the traditional society and aesthetic values.
Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.
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