• Title/Summary/Keyword: role of clothing

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A Study on the Active children's Clothes in the Latter Part of the 18th Century in England -In Relation with Rousseau's Naturalism (18세기 후기 영국에서의 고중적인 어린이 의복 출현에 관한 연구-루소의 자연주의 교육사상과 관련하여-)

  • 이선희;신상옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.139-166
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    • 1998
  • This dissertation is to help understanding about the emergence of active children's clothes in the latter part of the 18th century in England. In previous ages children had not been look-ed upon as children, but as incomplete and in-ferior men and women, the costume of children had not been distinguishable from that of their elders. The early eighteenth-century chil-d could not play in comfort because they dressed like their parents. But in the third quarther of the eighteenth century children became free from their con-comfortable and became active. English chil-dren's clothes was prevailing even in Europe as well. In the background of this liberation, there were many enlightened ideas, such as philosophers of enlightenment, doctors, writers, educators. Among these John Locke and Jean Jacque Rousseau criticized openly about rampant fashion which was distorting the body by corset and hoop. Rousseau was the one who wrote$\boxDr$Emile$\boxUl$and played the most important role to free children from an old fashioned idea, and emphasized to bring up children by the natural process of mental and physical development as human beings are a part of nature. Fashion reflects politic, economic, social, ideology, culture of the days and these factor function to create fashion which shows“Time Spirit”.Children's clothes, like those of their parents, follow the fashion, but with a difference, the form of which varies with the attitude to the child. Thus this dissertation was to study in relation with the background of the times in the latter part of 18th century in England and Rousseau's Naturalism in connection with the emergence of active children's clothes. The result is that diffusion of the idea of freedom and equality, the growth of bourgeoisie, the development of clothing and tex-tile industry have influenced to the emergence of active children's clothes. Also a great deal of middle and high class parents devoted to their children's education and was influenced by Rousseau's Naturalism. Specially the bourgeoisie who made their fortune by their own effort were eager to educate their achievement and business by their children through education. This factor influenced to the children's clothes as well.

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Theoretical Inquiry into the Relationship between Fashion and Art -Focusing on the Relationship between the Artist and Fashion, and between the Fashion Designer and Art- (패션과 예술의 간계에 대한 이론적 고찰 -화가와 패션, 패션디자이너와 예술의 관계를 중심으로-)

  • Shin, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 2008
  • This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

A Study on Taboo in the Traditional Prenatal Education from the Medical Perspective (전통(傳統) 태교(胎敎)의 문헌적(文獻的) 고찰(考察) 및 금기(禁忌) 연구(硏究))

  • Park, Jee-hyun;Bae, Jae-ryong;Ha, Jeong-A;Hong, Seung-cheol
    • Journal of Korean Medical Ki-Gong Academy
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.284-325
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    • 2009
  • This study aims to investigate the educational significance in modern education by analysis on the contents of taboo in the Korean traditional prenatal education. For this study, the concrete matters are prepared for investigation as follows: First, the contents of prenatal education are analyzed with special reference to the Chinese bibliography and the Korean bibliography related to its own traditional prenatal education. Second, the contents of taboo in prenatal education are broadly classified into Chun-ki(天忌), Chi-ki(地忌), and In-ki(人忌), and in turn, In-ki is classified into taboo related to clothing, taboo related to food, Taboo related to housing, and man's taboo, and all of them are interpreted. Third, the characteristics of taboo in the Korean traditional prenatal education and its principle are analyzed, and its significance is researched from the modern educational point of view. This study attempts to classify the contents of taboo into Chun-ki, Chi-ki, In-ki, and man's taboo based upon analysis of the documentary records related to the traditionary prenatal education in China and Korea for the successful investigation. The characteristic such as common discipline, the time limit and prevention are induced on the basis of this investigation, and its modern educational significance as follows: First, prenatal education must be conduced as a part of youth education and preparatory parents education for the married couple. Second, man or husband plays a very important role of practising taboo in prenatal education. Third, taboo in prenatal education is very suggestive in the aspect of human relationship and mental health of the pregnant woman. Fourth, it prevents her obesity and strain. Fifth, the scientific proof and education of taboo related to food must be needed.

A Study on the Cultivation of the Talent in Korean Fashion Industry (한국(韓國)패션산업(産業)의 인재육성(人材育成)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.27-42
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    • 1997
  • The Korean fashion industry is composed of originality, technique and business management. It is going to be the main role in the living and cultural industry in 21th century as a strategic advanced industry. On the other hand, more than 15,000 persons who majored in correlated fashion are graduated from universities, colleges, and fashion schools every year. But professional and competent persons specialized in clothings are very insufficient. So cultivation of the talented for fashion industry must be suitablely and differentially carried out, according to regional distinction or characteristics of each university, college level, institute and so on. At same time, it is for the subdivided professional educations in fashion field, also. Education institutions related fashion have to practice not only theory but also field-oriented education of fashion industry. The fashion enterprise must invest resolutely in reeducations for incoming and reading employees, too. Briefing the program of cultivating the competent as follows : (1) The execution of certification programes based on professional job series. (2) Cultivation of the talent by cooperation of industry and educational field. (3) Upbringing the specialists who have both abilities of foreign language and living cultural profession. (4) Establishment of a base oriented north-east Asia as the central fashion business. (5) Efficient using of multi-media. (6) Innovation of technology. (7) Preferential treatment of skilled labors apparel industry field. (8) Establishment of the Korean Society of Fashion Business for a bridge of industrial-educational complex and government, for cultivation of the talent. The programs of 'cultivation of the talent' must be differed from to whom', 'what', 'how long'. But the commonness in all is to need the stimulative education and creativity. Through it, 'what and how think' and 'how application' to all directions is acquired.

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A Study on the Near East Costume (II) -Osman Turkey Costume- (근동지역의 복식연구 II -오스만 터어키(Osman Turkey)복식을 중심으로-)

  • 오춘자;박길순
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.1-27
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    • 1994
  • This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

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Research Trends and Co-author Network Analysis of the Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association: Articles Published from 2010 to 2022 (대한가정학회지 연구 동향 및 공저자 네트워크 분석: 2010~2022년 게재 논문을 중심으로)

  • Mi Jeong Park;Jung Hyun Chae;Ju Han
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.62 no.1
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    • pp.15-32
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    • 2024
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the research trends and co-author networks of academic articles published in the Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association from 2010 to 2022. The network analysis was conducted using Excel and NetMiner 4.4, and the results were as follows. First, the number of published articles has been maintained at around 40 per year since 2019. By field, most articles were published in the field of child studies and family studies, followed by consumer studies, home management, clothing studies, home economics education, food and nutrition, and housing. The research methods were primarily quantitative (71.61%). Second, the most common keywords in the titles of the published articles were "influence" and "relationship", with "influence", "consumer", "mediating effect", "parent", and "control" identified as influential keywords. Third, the published articles were categorized into nine topics based on subject matter, while the number of topic types varied by year. Fourth, the total number of authors of the 627 articles was 712, with 1.92 authors per article, as well as the number of authors who published two or fewer articles accounted for 85.5% of the total. By institution, Yonsei University had the highest number of authors and the highest number of published articles, while Korea National Open University played a leading role in the network of co-authors by institution. This study is significant in providing basic data for the future development of the Korean Home Economics Association and the field of home economics.

Ideal Beauty Represented in Dress - Focused on the Renaissance and Baroque Periods - (복식에 표현된 시대적 이상미 - 르네상스.바로크 시대를 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.131-148
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    • 2008
  • Each stylistic period through history has its own unique look. The characteristic look of each period is completed and visualized with its prevailing ideologies, aesthetic consciousness and morality by means of 'form'. A period expresses its characteristics in accordance with form according to the widespread preferences of the time. Among the various cultural factors that form the look of the time, those that the period holds as ideal aesthetic values create the concept of 'ideal beauty' for that period. This study begins by establishing the conceptual definition of 'ideal beauty' and develops the premise that dress reflected ideal beauty. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects are dresses represented in paintings, the actual garments from the Renaissance to Baroque periods and written references about art, art history, and history of costume. The results, based upon a theoretical study of the zeitgeist and aesthetic values of the 16th and 17th centuries, are as follows: first, ideal beauty influences the substance and form that constitute dress style. It is a byproduct of the spirit of time, the zeitgeist. The concept of ideal beauty is born within the lifestyle pursued by the ruling class and focuses on the body as an epitome of beauty, moral values, custom, lifestyle and taste as it becomes visualized via form. Second, the aspect of dress representing the ideal beauty of particular time varied according to the times. In both periods, power and dignity were used to achieve the ideal aesthetic values. In the Renaissance, power was expressed by the horizontal extension of dress (i.e. wide farthingales and sleeves) and in the Baroque period, by vertical extension (i.e. long and tall wigs, fontanges and trains). It can be said that fashion in both periods achieved an ideal, such as power and dignity, via the same means, by extending dress sizes, but the ways in which those ideals were portrayed in each period's dress yielded very contrary styles. It is understood through this study that ideal beauty influenced the dress style of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and played a decisive role in determining its forms and symbolic meanings.

A Study on the Formation Factors and Characters of Yi Women's Headdress in China (중국 이족(彝族) 여성 두식(頭飾)의 형성요인과 특징에 관한 연구)

  • Wang, Huiyuan;Soh, Hwangoak
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.3
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    • pp.66-80
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    • 2017
  • The headdress is one of the most important clothing characters in China, as it was used to distinguish the 55 minority groups in China. Each minority group has a unique headdress culture. Among the 55 minority groups, the Zang, the Yi, and the Miao focus their ethnic costumes on the headdress, and have a more distinctive headdress culture compared to be other nationality groups. The Yi is one of the minority groups that linvd in Southwest China. They usually lived in compact communities in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous region. The total population of the Yi is the sixth largest among the 55 minority groups. Modern scholars believe that the Yi people are descendants of the ancient Qiang people, which is a group that lived in Northwest China six or seven thousand years before. It is believed that the Qiang went down to the southern part of China and allied with the aboriginals in that region, and this group of people became the Yi, Due to its long history, cultural background, and the large number of people and settlements, they have produced a unique costume culture. The women's headdress culture is considered to be the one of the most important characteristics of their costume culture. There are four forming element of the Yi women's headdress, religious faith, myths, geographical distribution and customs & festivals. The first three elements play an important role in the protection and spread of headdress, while the fourth element provides potential for the modern headdress development. Because of much influence factors, more than 100 types of Yi women headdresses have developed. Depends on categories, Yi woman headdress can be divided into kerchief, hat, fascinator and other accessories wore on the hand. This study investigated the development of the Yi women's headwear, and screened and analyzed representative Yi women accessories, such as the headscarf, hat, and fascinator. This analysis will provide basic materials for further studies of Yi women's headdress or costume.

Costume Code Analysis Placed Mise-en-abyme in the Movie - Focused on the Lucien Dällenbach's theory and the film - (미장아빔으로 배치된 영화 속 의상코드 분석 -Lucien Dällenbach의 이론과 영화 를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Hyangja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.1
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    • pp.130-146
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    • 2017
  • This study focuses on the Mise-en-abyme theories of Lucien $D{\ddot{a}}llenbach$, and presents research methodology to analyze the modern cinema costume in a new view. Inherent aesthetic values of the costume code shown in the film are as follows. First, esthetics value shown is the analogic code through the maximization of factual realism by directing target. Mise-en-abyme placed in this film plays the role of costume codes, and highlights the subject by presenting specifically targeted realistic icons to maximize the realism of the movie. Second, Mise-en-abyme is deployed to the explicit text through costumes code is placed as Displaced code arrangements. In other words, each of the characters is a signifier. Symbolizing a historical era is the device that represents a self-reflective signifier. Third, paradoxically reflected by the overlapped expansion of virtual reality and the self-referential characteristics and are subject to reflect the thinking of the author. Costumes code placed in Mise-en-abyme is expressed in costumes positioned to maximize the realism in the film as described above, and implies narratives and self-reflective mediating tools that symbolism can be seen that the paradoxical metaphor for the reality and the future. In addition, through the metaphor of visual narrative is allegorical representation Mise-en-abyme with ambiguity, and it is a concrete text that can be realized in a variety of creative storytelling methods and image delivery methods of modern fashion. This study confirmed that this costumes to take the point of view of emotional $Mise-en-sc{\grave{e}}ne$ in the process of completing the film's themes and cinematic devices by identifying the roles and aesthetic value of code costumes as the core subjects that make up the narrative of the film.

The Femme Fatale Image in Fashion Illustration (패션 일러스트레이션에 나타난 팜므 파탈(Femme Fatale) 이미지)

  • Choi, Jung-Hwa
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.15 no.3 s.68
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    • pp.431-445
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze and theorize the characteristics of femme fatale in fashion illustration since 1980. The method of this study was to analyze the documentaries for theoretical studies about femme fatale and the visual characteristics in fashion illustration works since 1980. The results of this study were as follows: Femme fatale expressed in the general realm of art was icon of fatal and seductive eroticism in late 19th century. She is composed of diverse images like mythology, exoticism, fear and sensuality. The characteristics of her image in fashion illustration were expressed into de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body, duplicity of death and sexuality, sexual decadence or abnormality and powerful masculine taste. First, de-body image by union of animal and female body, or machine and female body was expressed in transformed mythical image or bizarre and demonic image, grotesque image linked by picture of female body and painting of animal image, and cyborg image linked by machine and realistic female body by digital media. Second, duplicity of death and sexuality was expressed in juxtaposition by sexual pose, body and something metaphorical and symbolic depiction and de-constructive depiction of death. Third, sexual decadence or abnormality was expressed in fetishistic style, obscene depiction of cheap and hedonistic sexuality, masochistic depiction like antisocial and diseased sex appeal. Forth, powerful masculine taste was expressed in man's face, body, pose, masculine fashion, man's role related to crime and threatening weapon, etc. As mentioned above, femme fatale in fashion illustration was expressed in diverse images by fashion illustrator's point of view. Although she was originated by men's fantastic vision, she brings a catharsis to human being. And she is also recognized as new paradigm and positive cultural sign in our times.

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