• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.984-999
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• 2013

This research examines the interrelation of clothes, colors and sentiments based on clothes and colors that stimulate sentiment. This study provides data that is useful to color therapy by means of clothes as medium. The survey for this study targeted 200 Pusan National University students who analyzed the colors of association and clothes colors for nine positive vocabularies (passion, love, warmth, happiness, interest, softness, comfortable, freshness, and coolness) and six negative vocabularies (anger, fear, despair, nervous, gloomy, and loneliness). The data collection process used 120 standard colors as represented by Munsell's basic 10 colors (R, YR, Y, GY, G, BG, B, PB, P, RP) as chromatic colors classified into eleven tones of colors (V, S, B, P, VP, LGR, GR, L, DL, DP, DK) and achromatic colors divided into ten steps of brightness N1-N10. The results of the research are as follows. First, the warm class of colors were significant in the colors of association with positive sentiment and the cold class of colors were significant in the sentiment of refreshment and coolness. In addition, bright and clear colors (like V, S, VP, P) were associated with color tones. Second, the low bright achromatic colors were generally high for the colors of association with negative sentiment; in addition, the color of R, PB, P (as achromatic colors) were also significant. In addition, sober and dark tones (like GR, DL, DK, DP) were significant in color tones. Third, the interrelation between positive sentiment and clothes colors shows that colors of association were mainly used for upper garment colors. Similar colors against upper garments were used together for bottom garment achromatic colors and complementary colors; therefore, bottom garments play a subsidiary role in the concept of coordination with upper garments.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.22-31
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• 2007

The systematic study of the future began with curiosity and imagination about the future; a unique trait of human mental effort-and this seems to be based on the idea that the future can be different depending on current choices or effort. In this sense, it would be seemly to encourage more interest and academic study on the progress of future fashion. In this study, we examine recent changes of fashion material; e.g. that which science and technology have more impact and importance in futuristic fashion since the 1990�s. The period analysed is from the1990's to the present and related data from recent fashion collections and fashion books has also been included The current prediction of the future is largely based on what was formed between the 19th Century and the 20th Century which has persisted until now and has been influenced by the view that science will play a bigger role in the future. This is especially reflected in fashion which chiefly represents material culture. New materials used for fashion are strong and permanently durable, in addition to being very light, thin, flexible, hygienic, ecological and comfortable to wear-almost like a second skin. These fashionable new materials roughly function in two different ways according to external and internal characteristics. First, they cause external change. Second, they exemplify or allow new functions. Examples of external change are the use of silver color, achromatic color, metallic material, smooth-to-the-touch shiny material and the use of luminous material. Examples of the extended function of clothing through the use of new materials are the use of conducting thread, the use of special material for blocking & opening and the use of material which changes colors as the surroundings change. These days, the use of new material which changes its appearance is a novelty unique to the fashion world but we also expect to witness the debut of diverse new materials with extended inner functions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.211-230
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• 1998

Advertisements provide consumers with in-formation and knowledge about products and help a society to sustain homogeneity by actively reflecting important characteristics of mass culture. Yet this reflection is a selective and purposeful representation by the party of the fashion manufactures and carries the intention of stimulating and augmenting desire for commodities aiming to perpetuate capitalism. This study understood this selective reflection of mass culture by advertisements as a feature of hegemonic struggle between/fashion business and consumers and defined the values selected by advertisements as ideologies supporting the consumption ideology of capitalism. The purpose of this study was to examine the contents of the ideologies expressed in the clothing advertisements in women's magazines to persuade consumers into consumption. The method of study was mainly qualitative with subsidiary citations from the results of content analysis. The objects of analysis were clothing advertisements in 1996 issues of CeCi and Woman Sense, which were identified as the two most popular women's monthly magazines. The ideologies identified were ideologies concerning (1) Self Identity, (2) Sensibility, (3) Sex Role, (4) Globalism, (5) Youth, (6) Leas-ure and Pleasure. Repeated and insisted as natural and true, there values were proposed to be believed as common senses and studies re-port that values of advertisements are ac-cepted as more readily as they are more unreasonable, and the acts and behaviors expres-sed within advertisements are often imitated in real life situations. Therefore, it is highly probable that these values emphasized within advertisements are enacted in thoughts and behaviors of consumers' real life. Accordingly the author suggests that critical interpretation of advertisements is seriously required to fully understand the commodity ridden post industrial society of today and to lead a subjective life within it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.1142-1160
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• 2022

Text data plays a significant role in understanding and analyzing trends in consumer, business, and social sectors. For text analysis, there must be a corpus that reflects specific domain knowledge. However, in the field of fashion, the professional corpus is insufficient. This study aims to develop a taxonomy and thesaurus that considers the specialty of fashion products. To this end, about 100,000 fashion vocabulary terms were collected by crawling text data from WSGN, Pantone, and online platforms; text subsequently was extracted through preprocessing with Python. The taxonomy was composed of items, silhouettes, details, styles, colors, textiles, and patterns/prints, which are seven attributes of clothes. The corpus was completed through processing synonyms of terms from fashion books such as dictionaries. Finally, 10,294 vocabulary words, including 1,956 standard Korean words, were classified in the taxonomy. All data was then developed into a web dictionary system. Quantitative and qualitative performance tests of the results were conducted through expert reviews. The performance of the thesaurus also was verified by comparing the results of text mining analysis through the previously developed corpus. This study contributes to achieving a text data standard and enables meaningful results of text mining analysis in the fashion field.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.397-415
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.721-735
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• 2011

This study: 1) identifies differences in consumers' perceived similarity of extended products to their parent product in terms of brand attributes, 2) identifies the influence of the perceived similarity on consumer's attitude toward and purchase intention of extended products (i.e., brand extension effect), and 3) examines the moderating effect of Brand Relationship Quality (BRQ) on brand extension effects. A survey questionnaire was distributed to a convenience sample of individuals aged 20-39. A total of 576 valid responses were used for the final analysis. The results showed that: 1) the consumers perceived more similarity in the extended products when the extended products maintain more consistent attributes with their parent product, 2) the higher the perceived similarity was then the higher the brand extension effect, and 3) brand relationship quality moderated the influence of perceived similarity on attitude and purchase intention. When consumers build a high relationship quality with a brand, then the brand extension effect is likely to be high regardless of the perceived similarity of the extended products. This study consequently has its own contribution in that it empirically examined the brand extension effect in the fashion field and evidenced the role of BRQ in brand extension.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.743-759
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• 2023

Collaboration between AI and fashion designers is becoming essential. Thus, this study explored (1) 321 consumer responses to fashion designers, comparing their capabilities and product quality across different designer types, (2) the relationship between designer capabilities and perceived product quality, and (3) the moderating role of AI knowledge in the effect of capabilities on perceived product quality. Data were analyzed using EFA, ANOVA, regression, and moderation analysis. The results indicated that subjects perceived human designers as having higher capabilities and perceived product quality than AI designers. All subjects' perceived creativity and empathy significantly impacted the perceived functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism-sociality of clothing. Additionally, the perceived creativity of AI and human+AI designers, and the perceived empathy of human and human+AI designers, significantly influenced the perceived functionality and symbolism-sociality, but the perceived creativity of human designers and empathy of AI designers did not directly impact perceived functionality and symbolism-sociality. Moreover, perceptions of the designers' capabilities significantly aesthetics in all subjects. Furthermore, low levels of perceived consumer AI knowledge enhanced the positive impact of perceived human+AI designers' creativity and empathy on perceived functionality and aesthetics. The study suggests that fashion companies should refrain from revealing AI designers at this time.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.179-192
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to investigate the needs for the educational subjects of practitioners in apparel distribution industry and to examine the relationship between the needs and their socio-demographic variables. And it was intended to be used as basic data to develop the curriculum for continuing education in university. The subjects were consisted of 473 practitioners in apparel distribution industries in Taejon and Chongju. A questionnaire was used and classified into seven areas--basic area textile science, design, clothing construction, fashion marketing theory, fashion marketing practice and business management. Descriptive analysis, t-test and ANOVA were used for statistical analyses. The results of this study were as follows: First, the educational needs of subjects by practitioners were in the following order: 1)fashion marketing practice, 2)design, 3)fashion marketing theory, 4)business management, 5)clothing construction, 6)textile science, 7)basic area. Second, the educational needs of subjects by practitioners were also related to their socio-demographic variables like educational background, work area, type of market, total work experience, years in present job, and the role. It was implied that subject areas like fashion marketing and design with theory and practice we of most importance for practitioners in apparel distribution industry. Therefore, a university curriculum of continuing education for them should take into account of those factors mentioned above.