• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.79-98
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• 2015

This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.159-170
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• 2005

In this paper we examine the patterns of the subcultural fashion styles in the 20th century in terms of various subcultures in the period. First, we define the concept of the subcultural fashion styles and in turn, examine the subcultural fashion styles from 1950s to 1990s while focusing on the way each generation resisted against the mainstream through its styles. The subcultural fashion styles examined and analyzed in this study are mainly British and American styles. some of European and Western Indian styles are also included. In this paper, a subcultural fashion style is understood as a way of deviate or resistant expression within a society. It differentiates itself from the main style by deliberately and publicly asserting its own identity. And as a result, it is realized in a form of a fashion with its repressed subconsciousness, with resistance to the alienation from the society, and with deviation from the normative ethics and the morality of a society. In conclusion, we classify the subcultural fashion styles into two patterns based on their form of resistance which tries to distance itself from the ritual code of the day: the dressing of the escape from time and the dressing of the escape from space. The first pattern is characterized by nostalgia or futurism, and includes psychedelic, rastafarian, raver, techno style. The second Pattern includes surfer, folky, hippy, new age traveller, cyberpunk style. Especially, an emphasis is given on ethnicity, naturalism, or a closed space within a city in dressing of the escape from space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.5-17
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• 1999

This paper studies women's clothing and textiles recorded in the『the Odes』, and refers research materials on the old commentaries about the『the Odes』and the various kinds of records and remains. The results regarding women's clothing in『the Odes』are follow: 1. Ti-i, Chin-i are the women's ceremonial dresses. Ti-i is a kind of the court dress and the shape is a long dress embroidered with pheasant. Chan-i belongs to the lower grade compared with the six ritual dresses worn by the queen and is made of Hu that is a kind of the white soft-wrinkled fabrics. 2. A women's I-Shang is composed of a blouse and a skirt. It is the classic style before the Sh n-I appears in China. Also we find that they use the standard colours for a blouse and the intermediate colours for a skirt in Chou period. 3. Chiung-I, Chiung-Shang and Hsieh-Pen are a kind of the robe put over the former garment made of Chin not to display to elegance. 4. Fu, Ch n-Fa, Pei and T'i are a kind of women's wig. Ti and the six-Chia are women's hair ornaments. Ch'i-Chin and Ju-L are a kind of the working women's turbun. 5. The women's belt ornaments are classified into the practical things and the decorational things like those for men. The results regarding fabrics in the『the Odes』are as follow: 1. The silk fabrics; There are Chin, Hu, Chou, Tz , Su, Hsiu. 2. The woolen fabrics; There is Ho. 3. The linen fabrics; There are the hemp and the ramie in the remains of Chou period. Also there are Ch'ih and Hsi categorized in Ko fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.34-49
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• 2016

The ancient 'sacred cloths' of Indonesia have diverse characteristics. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of ancient Indonesian textiles, focusing on 'sacred cloths.' The research is divided into two parts. The first part analyzes the creation period, religious importance, region where the cloths are found, and color of the 'sacred cloths.' The second part focuses on the textile-making techniques and the ritual patterns of the 'sacred cloths.' This research is the second paper. This research analyzes 225 Indonesian sacred cloth examples chosen for their religious function in ceremony, and reviews 10 books and 8 research papers. Field research was done in the Museum of Bali, the Indonesian Museum of Textiles, and nine weaving production houses in eastern Bali. Indonesian sacred cloths express their cultural philosophy and function through production techniques, colors, techniques, and visual patterns. The 'sacred cloth'-making techniques are classified as Batik, Prada, and Ikat. The regions that contribute to the textile production determine what patterns show up on the cloths. Sumatran patterns are philosophical, lavish, and prestigious. Bornean patterns are barbaric and prestigious. Balinese patterns are complex, decorative, warm, festive, calm, and aristocratic. Javanese patterns are symbolic and repetitive. Celebes patterns are artistic and simple. Nusa Tenggara patterns are symbolic and narrative. The forms shown on the textiles, whether geometric, human and animal, natural objects, or abstract patterns, determine how to classify the varied patterns. As a result, ancient Indonesian sacred cloths characteristics portray Indonesian identity as Bhinneka Tunggal Ika(Unity in Diversity).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.111-120
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• 2012

Indonesia has a wealth of traditional textiles that are spread in every corner of its region, each of them has its own characteristics and uniquennes. Among the diversity of decorative and techniques used, there are also peculiarities arising from the coloring techniques, that is staining with natural dyes. The existence and the authenticity of the coloring techniques are still retained in some places in Indonesia until today. Generally, these societies make the fabric-making process as part of the ritual beliefs. One of which are the societies in Tenganan, Bali, an area in Bali which always use fabric as an important part in every traditional ceremony. The fabrics is known by the name Geringsing. The typically color which shown and also the sacred values that accompany make Geringsing a very special woven fabric and cannot be found in other areas. This is one of the local geniuses that need to be preserved. In addition to its unique techniques and special materials, Geringsing woven also keeps its myth and its philosophy. The emersion of Geringsing woven closely related to the community trust in God Indra as the main protector deity. The necessary initial process of making Geringsing is holding special ceremony attended by various circles of Tenganan village society. People in Tenganan believe that Geringsing is a precious heritage avoiding all diseases and disorders of evil spirits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.305-321
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• 1998

The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.368-386
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• 1994

The primary purpose of this study was to identify the diversity and embellishment of American Indian clothing and relationship between culture and clothing in American Indian Culture Areas. After the introduction of European material culture, change in American Indian clothing was conducted. The result of the Study as follows: 1. The most influential factors affecting the diversity of American Indian clothing were environmental factors. Climates and geographical features, Raw material were reflected in clothing style and clothing material in each culture Area. 2. Economic situation and life style were shown to be influential to clothing development. The best known instance of this was greatly elaborated clothing and personal adornment of the Plains who had higher stand of life and nomadic life style. 3. Religious concepts were important factors influencing American Indian clothing. Indian tribes had different ritual performance they used particular motifs in clothing. Clothing, such as "ghost shirt", Apache medicine shirt and Pueblo ceremonial clothing, served hidden pur- poses. 4. Techenology was another factor identified in this study as influencing American Indian clothing. Especially, weaving skills of Southwest played a great role in textile development. Pueblo "manta" and Navaho "bil" were famous for Indian costume. 5. European material culture allowed great change of traditional native Indian clothing. American Indian had new material, new styles, new concept of clothing. 6. American Indian, although Indian applicated European trade goods, was actually quite conservative in retaining traditional designs and modes of decoration. Asthetics and traction of American Indian were reflected in American Indian clothing.d in American Indian clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.113-127
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• 2005

From the ancient times, incense was used for various usages including a means of beauty expression with flavor, a medicine for disease treatment and a device for religious event or ritual. The period of T'ang was the times when cultural and material exchanges with foreign countries were very actively made under the political openness of the Chinese nation. Here the exchanges were made mainly through inland trade, called Silk Road(絲綢之路) and marine trade routes, Incense Road(香料之路). This indicates that incense was one of the main items actively traded at that time. In addition, literatures of the T'ang period show that in the Chinese nation, a wide range of classes from the imperial family to the public used incense for many different purposes. This suggests that the culture of incense was deeply prevailed and very socially significant in T'ang. This study investigated social factors that promoted the incense culture of T'ang and the applications and types of incense widely used in the period of T'ang. First, influential religions and the openness of sex culture were main social factors that made incense culture flourish in the period of T'ang. Above all, two main religions of the Chinese nation, Buddhism and Taoism became secularized under political protection by the imperial family. As Buddhism was popularized, the Buddhist ritual of incense burning made a contribution to making public incense culture. Providing its doctrines of eternal youth and eternal life, Taoism necessarily used incense to form a Taoistic climate. The flourishment of the foresaid religion in T'ang added more fuel to that of incense culture in the Chinese nation. The openness of sex culture brought about the Inauguration of the empress, improvement in female position and free relationships between man and woman. It was accelerated by sexology as a method of eternal youth provided by Taoism. The opened culture also developed the culture of kibang where female entertainers called kinyeo consumed lots of incense for decoration and sexual desire stimulation. These open climates of T'ang society made a great contribution to making incense culture, especially for decoration, prevailed throughout the Chinese nation. Second, types of incense prevailed and widely used in the period of T'ang included olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香), myrrh Resinoid(沒藥), jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香), all of which were imported from foreign nations and had various applications. Specifically, olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香) and myrrh Resinoid(沒藥) were used for religious purposes while, jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香) for the purposes of religion and decoration. In conclusion, a number of social factors including political, religious and medical purposes and the openness of sex culture set fundamentals on which the culture of incense was extensively developed and established as a social trend in T'ang. In the Chinese nation, incense culture was not just an option for taste, but a part of life style social members needed to know. People of T'ang not only enjoyed incense mainly for purposes of religion, pleasure and make-up, but also had the wisdom to know various effects of incense, curiosity about such new things and the will to imitate and pursue alien culture, resultantly flourishing incense culture. Thus the culture of incense represented many social aspects of T'ang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.