• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.1335-1342
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• 2014

Shallow water depths were estimated using Compact Airborne Spectrographic Imager (CASI)-1500 and mapped to analyze the bottom bathymetry changes due to the rip currents in Haeundae beach, South Korea for the first time. The depths were estimated empirically using the maximum reflectances from 420nm to 597nm wavelength of CASI and 47 in situ water depth measurements, which were compared with ground-truth bathymetry measurements. The comparisons showed that the RMSE was 1.1m with a correlation coefficient of 0.76. In addition, CASI imagery showed remarkably detailed bottom features, especially those resulting from the rip currents within the beach. Two different channels carved by the rip current were analyzed and characterized with respect to the width and slope compared to surrounding regions. While the west side of the channel showed a wide and gentle slope, the east side of the channel showed a narrow and steep slope. The estimated bathymetry map revealed that the uneven offshore bottom features were related to the transport and accumulation of sediments by the rip current, which reaches hundreds of meters offshore. Accordingly, the accumulated sediments were estimated by adding topography changes compared to the depths of the non-rip current regions. The sediments were accumulated in off channels as much as almost twice the amount of annual sand supplements along the Haeundae beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2011

At Haeundae Beach in Busan, people were swept away by the fast-moving rip current and rescued, on August 13th and 15th, 2009 & July 29th and 30th, 2010. In predicting the wave-induced current and consequent tube movement for public safety, the coastal flows and waves are calculated at each time step and grid point by means of systematic interfacing of hydrodynamic and wave models (Lee, 2001). To provide a user-friendly simulation tool for end-users, the forecasting system has been built in a software package called HAECUM. Outputs from the system are viewed as graphs of tube positions with combined current vectors for easy decision of emergency management officials. The tube-wave interaction is taken into account and the traces of swim tube are simulated by using a Lagrangian random walk (Chorin, 1978; Lee, 1994). In this study, we use the Lee's approach (Lee, 1993) in estimating the surface onshore currents due to wave breaking.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.29-32
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• 2009

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.61-64
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• 2009

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Disaster Information Conference
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• 2015.11a
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• pp.246-249
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• 2015

본 연구에서는 해운대 해수욕장 연안정비사업 전후의 지형변화에 따른 이안류 발생 변화에 대해 분석하였다. 본 연구에서는 Matlab GUI (Graphical User Interface)로 개발한 HAECUM (HAE(海) Current Model)을 통하여 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈류를 모의 하였다. 분석에 사용된 데이터는 이상적인 경우와 실제 이안류가 발생한 상황에 대해 각각 적용하였으며, 상호비교의 효율성을 위하여 해빈류 장미도를 통해 비교 분석 하였다. 본 연구를 통해 해운대 해수욕장의 연안정비사업에 따른 해빈류 및 이안류에 대한 상관성 도출하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.181-190
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• 2010

In case of constructing submerged breakwaters, the circulation current is occurred around the open inlet because of mean water level difference between front and rear sides of them. The aim of this study is to investigate the flow control structure of new-type submerged breakwater which is able to reduce mean water level at rear side of it. At first, the numerical model (LES-WASS-3D) is validated by comparing with existing experimental data. And then, numerical simulation is carried out to examine wave height, mean water level and mean flow around the newtype submerged breakwater. From the numerical results, it can be pointed out that the new-type submerged breakwater with drainage system reduces the rip current around the open inlet.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.382-390
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• 2015

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.