• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.433-448
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• 2019

Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates "big" looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the "Big" look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.74-90
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• 2008

Since the late of 20th Century, philosophy, art, and aesthetics have attention to the movement of object that persue the dynamics and qualitative change, not existing fixed and quantitative object. Qualitative continuity, including discontinuity of specific spot and surface that occurs sudden change, is distinct characteristics considered in contemporary logo civilization, which combines and disperses according as various purpose among the different elements and objects. Therefore, I studied about the characteristics of qualitative continuity that creates the change and the differentiation continuously through the "formative characteristics of the continuity expressed in contemporary fashion" of my preceding paper. This paper is the following study of above mentioned paper, and Investigates about aesthetic consciousness leading to the various change. This is intends to consider the trans-aesthetic consciousness that accepts dynamic movement and change the different object and reforms new relationship continuously. This studies' conclusion is as follows; 1) sublimity-Infinity, de-constructive, excessive 2) jouissance - functional, structural 3) paradox-perceptual, spatial. A study about the trans-aesthetic consciousness would help to offer philosophical basis, and make a change building aesthetic foundation in explaining various relationship like as phenomenon of the retro, neo, post, fusion expressed since the late of 20th Century.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.715-722
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of 'slow' fashion style expressed on fashion magazine in pursuit of sociocultural paradigm change towards 'slowness'. As for the research methodology, content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. First, the concern toward eco-friendly ethics has been involving simple style which is long-lasting, junky style which is reused or recycled, and sustainable style which is motived by nature. Second, the interest toward local diversity has been involving ethnic exotic style which is inspired by global culture and vintage retro style which is applied the old tradition. Third, the attention toward self-made has been involving personal style which is produced through the process such as made-to-measure, made-to-order and reform. Also, anonymous dresses can be personalized easily under mix-n-match. In Conclusion, the 'slow' fashion characteristics has been expressed on contemporary mass fashion in various way and the 'slow' fashion would be expected to improve in accordance with the change toward sociocultural paradigm of 'slowness'.

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.117-138
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• 1998

This study can be divied into three major sections: 1. Background on the 1980s : The 1980s can be characterized as a era of rising expectations over the quality of life. Interest in art, history, culture, and new technology increased to appeal to a greater audience. In fashion, these changes led to greater focus on quality and unique stylishness as fashion represented a medium through which luxury and refined tastes could be expressed. 2. Textile Trends of the 80s Divided into 4 Periods : The period of 1980-82 saw the mixture of natural lines with constructive lines. The textiles used in fashions in this period can be characterized by natural materials, mannish materials of the 1950s, feminine materials of the 1920s and 30s, and spoty materials of the 1960s. The period of 1983-85 was an avante garde period which used rustic avante-garde materials and art craft materials. The period of 1986-87 can be described as minimalistic and neo-classical which incorporated materials which represents a metropolitan feel, retro decorative materials and sporty, futuristic mat-erials. Lastly, the period of 1988-89 produced ethnic and natural fashions which relied on traditional British materials, country elegant and innocent look fabrics, ethinic and ecology-minded materials, in addition to comfortable and sports casual materials. 3. Characteristrics and methods of expression for textiles in the 1980s, : In the 1980s, the development of textiles have can be divided into 4 distinct patterns: decorative materials, sporty materials. In generals textiles have increased in their decorative nature-especially decoration by texure. Textile have also incorporated the mixture of contrasting themes in order to create new fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2018

This study examines the socio-cultural background of a Nerd-chic look, establishes a conceptual foundation for Nerd-chic look and examines its aesthetic characteristics in order to understand the latest modern fashion phenomenon. Nerd-chic look is a combination of 'nerd' as a popular collective style and 'chic', which refers to the aesthetic value of a costume style. It is a look that is expressed in fashion that reflects the contemporary aesthetic desires based on a nerd's external features and inner values. The aesthetic characteristics of the Nerd-chic look are as follows. First, the Nerd-chic look express the aesthetic characteristic of bricolage that transforms the familiar meaning of an outdated nerd style to 'chic' image by the rearrangement of the typical nerd style and retro fashion elements. Second, the Nerd-chic look express the aesthetic characteristic of supernormal, as a plain, restrained beauty based on the Normcore fashion mood, disassembly and recombination of ordinary items, fit-free styling, and asexual styling. Third, the Nerd-chic look expresses the aesthetic characteristics of deluxe poor, which rejects stereotypical and expensive luxury and presents a more contemporary and futuristic spirituality. It is expressed in oversized shapes that are not intended to fit the body and show incompatibility between fashion items or way of dressing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.17-27
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• 2021

The pursuit of a healthier life has created life style changes through exercise; in addition, an athleisure look as well as a combination of everyday clothes and sportswear has rapidly spread through sharing based on image-based SNS. Fashion related images shown in an image-based SNS are considered important resources for grasping micro-needs with regard to the sensibility of consumers. Therefore, this study analyzes the design characteristics of an athleisure look shown in image-based SNS. In order to analyze the athleisure look, images of the entire garment were collected and classified to enable content analysis methods that analyzed the design characteristics of each type. As a result, types were classified as sporty-athleisure, modern-athleisure, high-end athleisure, retro-athleisure, and romantic-athleisure. Looking at the characteristics of the athleisure look, it was shown that the design characteristics of each type were well expressed through differences in the direction, material, and details by matching between the items used. This study can be used in design development processes by deriving the characteristics of athleisure looks through an analysis of fashion images that appear in image-based SNS.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.209-216
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• 1998

21세기의 소비자 시장은 첫째, 패션 데모크라시의 현상으로 소비자들은 무조건적인 유행추종으로 이탈하는 삶들의 수가 많아지면서 자연의 주체적인 판단에 의해서 스스로의 패션을 선택, 창조해 가려는 현상을 보이고 있다. 둘째, 토탈 패션의 추구현상으로, 앞으로의 소비자들은 단품상품을 차별화하는데 목표를 두기보다는 자신의 개성과 가치관에 기초한 다양한 패션요소를 고려하는 경향으로 가고 있다. 셋째, 월드퀄리티 지향으로, 생활수준의 향상과 함께 소비자의 패션의식을 소재, 품질, 디자인, 브랜드 이미지와 같은 요소들의 세계적 통용성을 강조하는 데로 이행해 가고 있다. 넷째, 신 합리주의의 등장으로, 소비자들은 패션의 고급화를 추구시킨 상품전략에 있어서 현명함, 진실함을 강조하고 합리적인 가격대를 요구하는 경향이 늘어나고 있는 추세이다. 다섯째, 컨셉트 지향으로, 소비자 을은 각자 개인의 생활 장면(Life Scene)에 적합한 컨셉트 지향을 추구하는 현상으로 변하고 있다. 변화된 패션시장에 대응하기 위한 새로운 마케팅전략을 제시하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, Borderless가 점차 진행되면서 어패럴이 고객 개인에게 Custom made 상품을 제공하는 등 업체의 경계가 희미해지고 있다. 둘째, 비즈니스를 표준화 시스템화하여 집중관리 방식을 취하는 기업이 증가하면 할수록 그 niche시장을 겨냥하는 게릴라가 등장하는 고랄라와 게릴라의 2극화가 진행된다. 기본적으로는 개인의 창의 연구를 중요시하고 고감도로 현장밀착을 지향하고 있다. 그러나 이 2극화도 완전 분리하는 것이 아니라 고릴라가 게릴라적 움직임을 보이고 게릴라가 고릴라적 하이테크를 사용하는 등의 서로 보완적인 관계가 되는 현상이다. 셋째, Value retailing의 성장으로, 메스 머천다이징을 지향하는 기업이나 카테고리고리 킬러라고 칭해지는 기업 군이 점점 새로운 상품영역으로 확대되어 대형화 되어서 비즈니스의 share를 확대하고 있다. 넷째, 아웃소싱의 활용으로, 자사의 회사에 있는 기능, 지금까지 자가만이 해온 것을 모두 검토하여 <이것만은 우리가 강하다>고 하는 것만 남기고 다른 것은 외부의 기능을 이용하는 동향이 해마다 강해지고 있다. 다섯째, 무점포 판매의 확대로, 카탈로그 등의 통신판매에 더하여 인터넷의 등장, CD-ROM판매도 구체화되었다. 어느 유력한 미국의 Thinktank는 <2010년에 의류품과 홈제품의 전 매출액의 5.5%가 None.store가 될 것이다.>라고 예측하고 있다. 이상과 같은 문제를 극복하기 위해서는, 첫째, International, Global차원의 마케팅과, 둘째, Technology의 향상, 셋째, 지식 창조형의 마케팅이 요구된다.