• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.139-154
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• 2007

Wellbeing means the new life style leading a rich and nice life in which body and spirit is combined organically, and influence of wellbeing culture extends throughout the society. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean wellbeing fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2001 to 2005 were analyzed. The styles and materials and colors were examined from 1,151 wellbeing fashion designs that is based on wellbeing culture. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. The styles of wellbeing fashion in Korea include sportive, ecology, ethnic, retro styles in order. 2. Wellbeing fashion in Korea increased double in 2005 compared to 2001. Not least, sportive style and ethnic style rapidly increased. 3. Materials of wellbeing fashion in Korea include cottons, wools, chemical fibers, silks, jutes, functional fibers in order. Particularly the use of cottons in 2005 increased three times compared to 2001. 4. Of wellbeing fashion colors, yellow in bright tone were present the most, followed by white, red, black, green, blue, grey in order. Natural colors, vivid colors, pastel tone colors were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.14-26
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• 2009

This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.13-31
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative style and aesthetic value of contemporary subcultural style with the understanding of characteristics of subcultural style in the sociocultural context. As for the research methodology, literary survey has been performed to study the concept and the history of subcultural styles from 1940s to 1980s. In addition, demonstrative studies on aesthetic images have been carried out through the analysis of pictures and photographs in order to categorize the subcultural styles since 1990s. In this study, subcultural styles since 1990s have been illustrated through the socio-cultural grounds. which are diversity of street culture, diffusion of moss culture or bubble-up phenomenon, pursuit of anti-social ideology among intellectual heads, club Cultures in the form of kitsch and pastiche and communal thinking as collective harmony. With the socio-cultural context examined above, subcultural styles in the contemporary fashion are categorized and deduced following aesthetic values ; Drag and Club style as the tendency of surrealists or artificial hedonists, Urban military style and Cyberpunks as pursuit of Bionic being, Sports casual style based upon, the pursuit of comfort and freedom, Vintage style and Retro dressing represented by the spirit of DIY (no It Yourself), Ecology style of New conservatives, and Mysticism style as the fusion of technology and shamanism (Technoshamanism).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.811-821
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• 2008

This study examined on the most noticeable game industry in a digital era, and on the definition and feature of post-digital generation enjoying it, along with the relations with the game. Especially, this paper examined correlations between game characters' fashion and pop singers' fashion targeting post-digital generation enjoying games. As the result of this study, on-line game's popularity affected popular culture and game business and popular stars have close interrelation. In addition, through variosus objective surveys, the game characters' fashion was classified into five images before being analyzed; fighter's image, retro image, surreal image, sensual image, and unisexual image. The game characters' fashion wasn't only analyzed also studied correlation between on-line game character's fashion and pop singers' fashion by five images. Consequently in case of game characters' fashion, it influenced on pop singers' fashion targeting teens and twenties enjoying games, which meant fashion connections between game characters and pop singers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.475-487
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.73-87
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• 2017

Monpe, Korean women's wartime attire during the Japanese colonization period, has survived for 70 years as typical baggy workpants for rural women and emerged as retro-fashion. This paper applied a theory of "meme" to explain the monpe fashion trend in Korea. Based on literature review, empirical analyses were conducted by analyzing market and media including newspaper articles and blogs. We found that the monpe meme has evolved over time through variation, penetration, and diffusion. In terms of variation, the impression of monpe transitioned from a negative image to a positive one as a result of changes in design, functionality, and popular image. In terms of penetration, the monpe meme has spread into popular culture, again through mass media, with images of active, sexy, and attractive monpe-wearers on television and at popular occasions. Finally, the monpe meme has diffused throughout a broad range of consumers of various ages and both genders as an item of clothing for various occasions through diversified distribution channels. In this way, the development of monpe as fashionable clothing in Korea during the 2000s is itself a meme reflecting its evolution from a disgraceful colonial legacy to an item of contemporary fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.715-722
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of 'slow' fashion style expressed on fashion magazine in pursuit of sociocultural paradigm change towards 'slowness'. As for the research methodology, content analysis for Vogue magazine has been undertaken. The results of this study can be summarized as followings. First, the concern toward eco-friendly ethics has been involving simple style which is long-lasting, junky style which is reused or recycled, and sustainable style which is motived by nature. Second, the interest toward local diversity has been involving ethnic exotic style which is inspired by global culture and vintage retro style which is applied the old tradition. Third, the attention toward self-made has been involving personal style which is produced through the process such as made-to-measure, made-to-order and reform. Also, anonymous dresses can be personalized easily under mix-n-match. In Conclusion, the 'slow' fashion characteristics has been expressed on contemporary mass fashion in various way and the 'slow' fashion would be expected to improve in accordance with the change toward sociocultural paradigm of 'slowness'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.117-138
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• 1998

This study can be divied into three major sections: 1. Background on the 1980s : The 1980s can be characterized as a era of rising expectations over the quality of life. Interest in art, history, culture, and new technology increased to appeal to a greater audience. In fashion, these changes led to greater focus on quality and unique stylishness as fashion represented a medium through which luxury and refined tastes could be expressed. 2. Textile Trends of the 80s Divided into 4 Periods : The period of 1980-82 saw the mixture of natural lines with constructive lines. The textiles used in fashions in this period can be characterized by natural materials, mannish materials of the 1950s, feminine materials of the 1920s and 30s, and spoty materials of the 1960s. The period of 1983-85 was an avante garde period which used rustic avante-garde materials and art craft materials. The period of 1986-87 can be described as minimalistic and neo-classical which incorporated materials which represents a metropolitan feel, retro decorative materials and sporty, futuristic mat-erials. Lastly, the period of 1988-89 produced ethnic and natural fashions which relied on traditional British materials, country elegant and innocent look fabrics, ethinic and ecology-minded materials, in addition to comfortable and sports casual materials. 3. Characteristrics and methods of expression for textiles in the 1980s, : In the 1980s, the development of textiles have can be divided into 4 distinct patterns: decorative materials, sporty materials. In generals textiles have increased in their decorative nature-especially decoration by texure. Textile have also incorporated the mixture of contrasting themes in order to create new fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.117-131
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is for affirmation about fashion and film industry has very important relationship through the image of film fashion in 1990. To this processing , films in 1990 were analyzed by the back ground, time place, persons's status are expressed in period movie but the person's characters, development of story mood in contemporary movies. The contents of this study are as follows : First, film fashion which was related mass fashion design and concept development and fashion designers as constume services were considered. Second, the change of star image through the 20th century. The roles and new image of film fashion in period movies and contemporary movies in 1990 were searched. Third, proposal and results were confirmed for expansion of fashion industry and film industry together. Finally, from the latter of 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have participated in film works than before, So the images of films were sued and reflected as new mass trend . Especially retro-romantic mood was expressed in fashion trend due to period movie fashion. Also minimal city look and elegance glamourous look are represented cause of contemporary movie fashion. Therefore, the cooperation between film productions and fashion professionals is very important for promotion of Korean culture development in 21st century, 'the century of image'.