• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2017

Fashion companies are increasingly becoming aware of the importance of Digilog as a response strategy to an emotional stimulus, in order to win the hearts of consumers, because the Digilog provides a new type of emotional value. The features of Digilog found in modern fashion are characterized as follows: first, the "Fashion Image of Hybrid Nature" expresses nature in a new light or reinterprets existing expressions of nature, by using cutting-edge technology based on the psychological desire to return to, adapt with, and harmonize with nature. Second, the "Fashion Image of Nostalgia," which exhibits past forms of regressive fashion, is a fashion code that can be understood as a social trend. It has a digital exterior, with retro materials and old perfumes that reflect psychological comfort, as its expressive medium. Third, the "Lifestyle through the Technique of Interaction" is the sharing of information through consumer participation and delivery, or its interaction. Fourth, the "Fashion Design through the Technique of Customizing" allows consumers to actively participate in the design process. It reflects the consumer's desire to personally design fashion products. Fifth, the "Emotion Sharing through the Technique of Storytelling," which focuses on intangible values, is based on the sentiment of communication between the consumer and the brand, thereby satisfying the inner values as well as the aesthetic demands of consumers. This study confirmed that digital fashion, which uses digital technology based on analog sentiments, has opened up a new environment for fashion culture and has also widened the boundaries of fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.100-108
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• 2012

Traffic police officers are faced with many dangerous accidents due to outside duties on roads. Yet, researches on traffic officers' uniforms have mainly been focused on design aspects rather than functional aspects. This study therefore aims to figure out traffic officers' perceived needs for their uniforms and to offer some basic guidelines in manufacturing versatile safety vests for wearers. The study used a documentary survey replied by 236 traffic officers. The results of the study are as follows: 1. There are 10 different types of vests currently used by traffic officers. Vests are employed for purposes such as carrying police equipments, enabling officers to be noticeable in dark, protecting the body, etc. 2. Officers wear these vests which were officially designated by law. Among them, fluorescence versatile safety vests were most frequently worn by officers. 3. Officers who wore ready-made vests of which size was already determined, tended to perceive that the vests were relatively larger than their own size. 4. In terms of the functions of the vests, officers expressed needs for the improvement of the LED and retro-reflection tape along with the addition of thermal function to existing vests. The improvement of the form and functions of versatile safety vests which reflect needs of the users will boost the dignity and the sense of duty of the traffic police officers.

• International Journal of Highway Engineering
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2012

The performance of road markings is classified into the visibility at daytime, night time, wet condition and rainy conditions. The objective of this study is to obtain the driving safety of drivers under conditions of unstable weather condition such as the rain. The visibility of road markings is closely related to the preview time and detection distances and the ways to improve road marking materials and increase the dry retroreflectivity and wet retroreflectivity, which are the measures of daytime and nighttime visibility is researched to decrease the traffic accidents. For this purpose, Road marking glass beads with the refraction rate of 1.5 and 2.2 are introduced to raise the retroreflectivity. After investigating the minimum threshold retroreflectivity and Install Minimum retroreflectivity at home and abroad, minimum control values for the roadmarking visibility and improvement of nightime rainy retroreflectivity are suggested by physical properties and retroreflectivity experiments.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.257-266
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• 2002

Modern Society is tuning to the wide organized social structure with highly varieties. To the cultural aspects in these days of the late-indusoial society, due to the post-modernism. This kind of trend was found in overall fields of studies. Therefore, the post-modernism is to be a kind of a modern spirit ruling over the late 20th century. Post-modernism is a vague expression, that was begun to appear in various artistic intellectual, ideologic trends with a repulsion of modern design after the World War II. The present age as a modern society slews a distinguished mark of undifferentiation disorganization and relaxation, disassembling of social structure. With the study on the background of occurrence, character and philosophy for the post-modernism, the theoretical background of post-modernism could be seen. According to the influence of post-modernism, the minimalism, retro-design, kitsch-design, deconstructionism-design deconstructionism-design, new materia1-design and cyber-design shown on each trend of modern industrial design were studied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.78-86
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• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.611-626
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• 2014

Reading and foreseeing fashion trends is crucial and difficult in the fashion industry due to accelerated and diversified changes in fashion trends. We use network analysis to investigate fashion trends from 2004 to 2013 in order to find the inter-relevance among fashion trends. We extracted words from fashion trend info for women's wear provided by Samsung Design Net, created a 2-mode network of seasons and trend languages, and visualized this network using NodeXl program. Fashion trends repeated a unique pattern during the period. In the first half (2004-2008), retro modern, feminine modern, and ecological modern were dominant trends in consecutive order. The years 2009-2013 witnessed distinctive fashion trends in S/S seasons and in F/W seasons. 11F/W, 12F/W and 13F/W seasons were characterized by artistic creative style. From 2010, natural style dominated S/S seasons. 10S/S and 12S/S seasons were distinguished as a calm natural style that reflected a peaceful and simple life. In 11S/S and 13S/S seasons, soft natural style emerged as a sign of increased importance of inner spirit and natural energy. A seasonal reappearance of trends was observed every two years in S/S seasons that enabled the prediction that 14S/S will see another version of natural style. A macroscopic trend for the last 10 years was represented by the keywords 'modern' and 'natural'. 'Modern' involved the past styles such as 60's, Baroque and the origin of human life. 'Natural' was connected with design elements such as material, silhouette and color. Managerial implications and future study directions are discussed based on the results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.