• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.519-528
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• 2017

Mobile shoppers have encountered frequent color mismatch in the products that they have purchased, as they can only rely on their sense of sight. Therefore, fabric color and color difference recognized by smartphone display during mobile shopping were studied using instrument analysis method. It aimed to gather precise information on actual fabric color understanding of the mobile shoppers purchasing textile products. Three smartphones were selected from LG, Samsung, and Apple companies, and four colors were researched (red, yellow, green and blue) to both polyester and wool test fabrics for color analysis though color measuring instruments. The results from the spectrophotometer indicated that the color coordinate location of smartphone fabric color is similarly distributed regardless of the type of fabric. The Samsung smartphone displays a relatively high color chroma (especially on red-colored fabric) regardless of the type of fabric due to a high color reproduction range. In contrast, the LG smartphone, which has high color temperature, displays high color chroma on the blue colored fabric with a significant color mismatch between the actual fabric color and smartphone fabric color. From the results of this study, issues related to mobile shopping can be addressed through an analysis of the products sold, the smartphone's color representation, and user understanding.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.310-322
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• 2019

Since the late 2000s, fashion exhibitions have expanded to encompass a variety of concepts and sizes, and the need for research on exhibition planning, installation, and direction, including curating, is emerging. In this context, basic research is deemed necessary to encourage more experimental and in-depth research into the planning and orientation of domestic fashion exhibitions. Accordingly, by analyzing the exhibitions of Judith Clark, a pioneering fashion curator, and fashion exhibition planner, the aim of this study is to examine the characteristics and directing points of her curation. This study proceeds as follows: first, the concept and type of fashion exhibition and curation are investigated. Second, the exhibition cases curated or produced and installed by Judith Clark are examined and analyzed. Finally, based on this analysis, the characteristics and directing points of her curation are identified. In exhibitions, Clark's directing style features use of a variety of objects, the diversification of the flow-path through space division, and collaborations with various fields or experts. Clark's curation points, based on such characteristics, are as follows: reproduction-oriented curation to capture the age of the time based on historical research; storytelling-based curation; and transboundary curation with multiple methods and open processes. This study is expected to serve as a foundation and precedent that will lead to further research on fashion exhibitions and implementation.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.859-869
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• 2006

We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication: a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication : a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated. Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok. The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.