• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.29-42
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• 2000

It has long been believed that European clothing style has been developed independently without the Eastern influence. This deductive assumption has limited the understanding about the contents of Eastern clothing style, and there has only been limited studies on the Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern clothing to be considered as merely exotic and relatively unimportant. Therefore, a thorough study and understanding of the contents of the Eastern clothing style and its influence on the western world is very much needed. The objective of this study is to see how the clothing of the Islamic Osman Turk had influenced Europe during the Gothic and Renaissance period and to find the relationship between the development of the East and West clothing style. This study also has the purpose of re-evaluating the importance of the Eastern culture in the present multi-cultural global era of the 21 st century. The most typical clothing of the Osman Turk was kaftan and other traditional clothing included narrow pants and head dress. Through trade, war and other channels, the Turkish influence changed the styles and colors of previous European fashion that can be characterized by the simple designs of tunic and mantle into a dynamic dress culture. Cotehardie adopted the styles of the Turkish kaftan. The new weaving techniques enabled new clothing such as Pourpoint, Houpplelande made of brocade and velvet with elegant patterns come into European fashion. Also, head dresses, which before were not used except for religious reasons were widely worn. As such, Turkish fashion gave significant influence on the development of European clothing style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.89-94
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• 1977

This is a study of the history and the changes of methods of making shroud from Koryo up to present. Korea is Known as a country of East with its courtious people, and naturally the people observed the proprieties, especially on the funeral, in performing religious services and worshiping of the ancestors. Since Koryo and Yi Dynasty, because of the complexcity of the formalities under the confucianism, the shroud also became very complex. The process of making shroud was various according to the classes and economical circumstances. They made shroud of fine textured hemp cloth or silk, selecting one of 'good days' in leap year. As they believed the shroud should be rotten as soon as possible, fine textured hemp cloth was common as for the material. The color of the shroud was either plain or colored as the casual wears. In sewing shroud, the thread shouldn't be knotted nor connected in each seam and the strips should not be even numbered. These methods of making shroud have been changed variously and symplified according to the economical circumstances up to now.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.165-175
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• 2007

Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.739-748
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• 1994

These days the Korean costume becomes the formal dress to be worn on particular occasions. The Westernization of life style, inculding dress, has made the costume of wearing traditional dress disappear from Korean's everyday life. This study is launched to investigate the precious textiles and materials of the past before they vanish; this study deals with the materials of folk costume in the early 20th century, preceding Westernization. The research method adopted in the study was interviews of fifth- five elderly persons living around the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province. The result was that costume culture in that area was poor because people living in the area were economically less well off due to meager agricultural products. There was no variety in the style of costumes to be worn for various occasions. It was also nothworthy that because of no diversification in naming, only one representative word was used to name several types of costumes. On the other hand, it was discovered that the people in the Mt. Kumo area had religious aspirations stemming from their folk beliefs concerning costumes. They also had an attitude of saving money despite poor economic conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.56-75
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• 2010

Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.1-13
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• 2005

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Kokuryo has been the exchange foreign relationship with the Han dynasty era, from king DaiMuSin 25 years to Bojang 27 years. 2 King of Kokuryo, from The North-Wei-dynasty has been received ceremonial costumes, first-third class of China's official rank. After unification of China, Su, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come from China to Kokuryo, therefore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peoples costumes, without concern of that one's social position. 3. Kokuryo King's ceremonial costumes are not the same as the China. Kokuryo performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony. And the Kokuryo King's religious mind was the Budism and Daoism. So that mural painting just showing the symbolic of the king's costumes , Myunryukwanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.12-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the mental, social and aesthetic facets contained in ancient shining costumes and to find out the internal meaning of ancient shining costumes that they wished to express. This study was based on the theoretical data regarding the materials, types, and characteristics of the shining costumes. Egypt, Rome, Greece and several Mesopotamian countries have been included as a scope of research. The literature examination skill was applied for the research. The internal meaning of ancient shining costumes could be understood as an instrument of expression regarding religion, social status and beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1398-1407
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• 2001

The “Changzu”(footbinding)was an old chinese traditional custom practiced during more the thousand years and was applied to only woman. It prevents young girl’s foot from growing when she is 3 to 8 years old by big toe and forcing her to were the lotus shoe called LIANXIE. In china, the feet and shoe had special symbolic meaning other than usual simple of supporting body and protecting the foot, they are symoblic aspects of implication interal new meaning. In this study was investigate the internal meaning symbolized by Changzu from various perspectives such as religious, aesthetic, and group unconsicous aspects. In conclusion, the Changzu is a symbol that representing a dilemma which on one hand women would like to attract man physically while on other hand woman should be chaste and modest morally. And aiso it is group image representing groups unconsicous desire to preserving the artificial identity bestowed upon Chines woman by Chines man.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.