• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.579-590
• /
• 2004

This research was aimed to investigate and compare the effectiveness of TLC and GC-MS methods in the analysis of chromophoric substances extracted from madder plant. Alizarin and purpurin 0.3% solution were used as comparative standards; madder extraction was prepared by heating the solution of powdered madder at 80℃, pH 1.5, for 90 min. Best elution solvent for TLC in silica gel plate was toluene:ethyl acetate=9:1, which resulted in red and yellow spots from madder extraction each of which showed R/sub f/ values 0.32-0.43 and 0.07-0.11. Although the red spot in particular exhibited similar characteristics as standard purpurin in color, shape, and R/sub f/ values, the result was inconsistent throughout different TLC trials. GC-MS analysis showed only small amount of alizarin and no purpurin in the madder extraction. Other chromophoric substance such as 2-furancarboxaldehyde, 5-(hydroxymethyl)-, anthralin, and danthron were also detected in small amounts. The result indicated that TLC was less sensitive to detecting and identifying the natural dyestuff which is generally constituted with a number of similar but chemically different chromophoric substances.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.4
• /
• pp.506-513
• /
• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• Conservation Science in Museum
• /
• v.12
• /
• pp.9-17
• /
• 2011

This study examined non-destructive UV-Vis spectrophotometry as well as 3-D fluorescence spectrophotometry of textile that made use of red dye such as Sappan wood, madder, Safflower, Gromwell. The authors produced two textile specimen that were dyed by not only two kinds of textile (cotton and silk) but also three kinds of mordanting (no-mordanting, alumen and iron), and they investigated effects of each dye material upon investigation results. At analysis with UV-Vis spectrophotometry of dyed textile specimen, dyeing made by sappan wood, madder and gromwell had significant difference depending upon mardant regardless of kinds of textile, and safflower had no significant difference depending upon textile and mordant. At analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry, specimen dyed with sappan wood had difference with mordants, and with madder, there were difference with textiles, and safflower had inherent fluorescence spectrum regardless of textiles and mordants, while gromwell had no fluorescence spectrum.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.12 s.148
• /
• pp.1608-1618
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.29 no.4
• /
• pp.276-283
• /
• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.297-303
• /
• 2004

This study was carried out to investigate into the dyeability of ramie fabrics using the extract of native plant, red-dye madder (Rubia akane Nakai) in different conditions. Surface color of ramie fabrics dyed with extracts from red-dye madder plants showed an order of descent YR. However, it was changed by the different mordants. Surface color of ramie fabrics treated with FeSO$_4$, SnCl$_4$, and tartaric acid was an order of descent Y, and that treated with the ashes of common camellia, and bean straw was an order of descent R. At higher temperatures, surface color and coloring matter concentration of ramie fabrics were as follows that values of a increased, however, values of b decreased and values of L lowered. Coloring matter concentration increased in the order of 7$0^{\circ}C$, 9$0^{\circ}C$, and 6$0^{\circ}C$, and so on. Dyeing colors on the ramie fabrics showed an order of descent Y by pH 4 and 9 in dyestuffs solutions. Coloring matter concentration in terms of K/S values, more or less, was increased at strong acids. Surface color by the concentration of dyestuffs solutions showed an order of descent YR irrelevant to the concentration of dyestuffs solutions. Coloring matter concentration was increased at higher concentrations of dyestuffs solutions. Ten minutes was sufficient for the dyeing of ramie fabrics in terms of surface color and coloring matter concentration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.788-799
• /
• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.34-45
• /
• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2012

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.