• Title/Summary/Keyword: rank belt

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A Study about Historical Research on Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje (지리산 남악제(南岳祭) 제례복식(祭禮服飾)에 관한 제언)

  • Lee, Yeong-Ju;Lee, Sang-Eun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.4
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 2014
  • This study is intended to historical research the Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje. Joseon Dynasty established Five Manners as a country-ruling policy on the basis of Confucianism, the religious clothes-wearing method has been established through Sejong Silok Five Manners and the ritual robes system of all the government officials has been handed down to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The ritual robes of all the government officials was worn at the timed of the religious ceremony included ritual manners, and ritual robes are composed of Yanggwan, Ui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Hwan, Wu(a cord, a leather belt, a belt, jade, a mace, Bangsimgokryeong, Mal, Ri, etc., and the rank was classified by the number of the veritical line of Ynaggwan, a leather belt, Hwan, Wu and jade and typeof a mace. "Jongmyouigwe" during the reign of king Sukjong described exactly the Uicha and textile of the ritual robes at that time, the textile Ui used Heukju as same as "Jegiakgidogamuigwe", and jade was used only in case of the first rank ritual official and other government officials did not wear jase. Also, it was revealed that all officials used a wooden mace, and in case of Husu, the first rank ritual official used Jikseong and other official used a picture.

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A Study of the System of Official Costume of Baekche (백제 공복제도에 관한 연구)

  • Suh, Mi-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.8 s.108
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    • pp.60-73
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    • 2006
  • This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

A Reconsideration of the Establishment & Revision of Official's Gongbok During Emperor Hongwu's Reign of the Ming Dynasty (명 홍무연간 문무관 공복의 제정과 개정 시기 재검토)

  • Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.5
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    • pp.87-101
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    • 2013
  • This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

A Study of Court Dresses Shown in Scene of the Royal Banquet Given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang of Gisagyecheop ("기사계첩(耆社契帖)"의 "경현당석연도(景賢堂錫宴圖)"에 보이는 인물들의 복식 고찰)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.1
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    • pp.45-60
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    • 2008
  • This study reports a court dress culture in 1719 shown in the Scene of a Royal Banquet given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang(景賢堂) of Gisagyecheop(耆社契帖). It can be summarized as follows: First, King Suk-jong(肅宗) attending a Royal Banquet for members of the Hall of Elder Statement wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, red Gollyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. The Crown Prince(王世子) also wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, black Goliyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. Second, senior statesmen(耆老臣) over the age 70 wore Sarno, Heukdallyeong with a crane rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Royal family members and officers also wore Samo, Heukdallyeong with a crane or silver pheasant rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Third, Sakum(司禁) of King's body guards wore Yungbok and Muyaebyulgam(武藝別監) wore Ja-geon and the green Jikryeong. Ui-jang-gun(儀仗軍) wore Pirip and Hongui, Haengjeon, and Unhae. Saboksikwan(司僕侍官) wore Samo, Heukdallyeong, belt, black boots, and a sword. Fourth, boy dancers(舞童) wore Buyongkwan, Kwanbok, skirt, belt, and black boots. Cheoyong-dancers(處容舞童) wore outfits in fine colors, wide pants, skirt, mask with an earring, gold colored belt, and white colored sandal. Hyeopryulrang(協律郞) wore Sarno and Heukdallyeong. Jipbak(執拍) wore Morabokdu and Noksaui, and Ak-kong(樂工) wore Whawhabokdu, Hongju-ui, Ojungdae, and Heukpiwha. Singer(歌童) wore Jajeok-dugeon, nokju-ui, and jajeokdae.

A Study on the Structure and Terminolgy of Ranking Belt in Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 품대의 구조와 세부 명칭에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.135-150
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    • 2011
  • The ranking belts for Joseon dynasty officials that are based on references and relics are studied in this paper in terms of architecture, detailed names, and structural changes according to different time. Officials' uniforms consist of hats, clothes, belts, and shoes. Among these, the belt is an important sign that represents the wearer's ranking. The ranking belts of the Joseon dynasty which were brought from Ming at the late stage of the Koryo dynasty became classified as the following four classes : Seo-dai(a rhinoceros' horn, 犀帶), Gum-dai(gold, 金帶), Eun-dai(silver, 銀帶), and Heug-gag-dai(black horn, 黑角帶). A ranking belt consists of a basic belt body and a plaque that represents the wearer's rank. A plaque consists of 20 plates: three front-center plates that represent the Sam-tai(三台) constellation, six front-side plates that represent the Namduyug constellation(南斗六星), seven back plates that represent the Big Dipper(北斗七星), left side Bo(輔), right side Pil(弼), and a couple of Tamie at both ends. The architecture of the belt body; the basic frame for ranking belts, shows some differences between the former and the latter periods of the Joseon dynasty. In the former period, the belt had a pair of a buckle so that the wearers were able to adjust the belt size. But later, the belt didn't have the buckles to adjust the belt size and consequently it only performed a locking or unlocking function. Therefore, the belts in the latter period were longer than normal and one size fit all. In addition to the functional change of buckles, the shapes of the ranking belts show changes from the round shape to the square shape as time goes on.

A Study On the costume of the Koryo Dynasty (2)-$\cicled3$-See Through by the Human being, on the Buddist Painting of Koryo Dynasty Engraved Painting on the wood.- (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵)중 '경판화'를 통해서 본 복식제도에 관한 연구(2)-$\cicled3$-)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.221-232
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    • 1995
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

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A Study on the Costume Accessories of Shilla in Sam Kuk Sa Ki(三國史記) (三國史記의 服飾硏究 Ⅵ -色服의 服飾 附屬品을 中心으로-)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 1999
  • This study in concerned with the costume accessories appeared in Sam Kuk Sa ki. The accessories of both sexes were analized. Results of this research can be summarized as follows : It was appeared that names of accessories of men were fewer in number than those of women. Men\`s accessories such as a hat, bok-du, a belt,boots, shoes, and sock were mentioned in Sam Kuk Sa Ki. Women\`s accessories appeared such as a hat, a comb, a hair pin, a belt, shoes, and sock. A bok-du, boots, and a hared belt were used exclusively by men, while a hat, kwan(冠), a comb, a hair pin, a scarf, pyo( ) were worn exclusively by women. All men from different classes including true bone class as well as the common class wore bok-du, a hat, a hard belt, boots, sock ; however, class distinctions were made from materials used for those items. Also women\`s accessories were used as means of differentiating social status of the wearer by means of materials employed for each item. Especially, woman\`s hat and scarf were a symbol of the noble class. Only two classes of women from the true-bone class and women from the sixth du-pum class entited to wear hats. Wearing a scarf was not allowed to women from the common class. Class dirrernetiations were made by the materials used for hats and scarves. Materials for a scarf such as gold and silver leaf, pecock tail, and king fisher fly feather were restricted to women from true-bone class. Such as man\`s hat bok-du( 頭), use of women\`s comb and hair pin, scarf, leggings were items drived from Tang China. It clearly showed that costume accessories of Silla were heavily influenced by the Chinese. At the same time the costume accessories were sued to make sex difference among the people of Silla. Woman wore a soft belt made of cloth while man wore a hard belt. Woman\`s hat, a scarf, a comb, a hair pin, a belt or sash for a shirt, and leggings were woman\`s sex symbol. Thus, costume accessories of Silla appeared in Sam Kum Sa Ki functioned as means of differentiating social status of the wearer such as sex,class and rank in the society. Also, they showed that Silla kingdom had close cultural relationship with Tang China.

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A Study on the Costume of The Koryo Dynasty(2) -See through by human being, on the written Budist scripture(2)-2 (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구 (2) -고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵) 중 '사경화'를 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구(2) -평서민 남녀복식을 주로하여)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.211-223
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    • 1994
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

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Conservation treatment and characteristics of the belt with rhinoceros-horn ornaments at the National Hangeul Museum (국립한글박물관 소장 덕온공주 집안 서대(犀帶)의 보존처리 및 특징)

  • Hwang, Jinyoung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.25
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    • pp.51-62
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    • 2021
  • The Belt with Rhinoceros-Horn Ornaments(known as a seodae in Korean) from the family of Princess Deokon's descendants housed in the National Hangeul Museum underwent emergency treatment for a special exhibition in 2019 upon the request of the National Hangeul Museum. Priority was given to the restoration of the original form of the severely damaged belt and the repair of its detached horn ornaments. Prior to the conservation treatment, researchers conducted a theoretical study of the belt with rhinoceros-horn adornments to learn the names of its structural components and the changes in form that the type experienced by period, thereby establishing a plan for conservation treatment and setting a direction. Among the belts worn by officials from the Joseon dynasty, rhinoceros-horn ornaments were attached to those of officials of the first rank and were considered the most precious behind the king's belt with its jade ornaments. The rhinoceros horn adorning the belt is classified into three categories according to quality. This belt has horn adornments of the highest quality, falling under the "grape design" category with dark brown dots concentrated in the center. The belt has a rectangular shape and lacks a buckle, reflecting a popular form from the nineteenth century. The structure of the belt was identified over the process of conservation treatment, offering information about its method of production. In addition, comparison of the relic with belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments depicted in Joseon-period portraits of officials allowed the identification of changes in formal features and the detailed structures of belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments by period. It confirmed that the belt subject to conservation treatment shows the features of belts with rhinoceros-horn ornaments produced in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

A Study of the Gwanbok (1st period) of Meritorious Vassals' Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 공신초상(功臣肖像)의 관복(제1기) 고찰)

  • Kim, Migyung;Lee, Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.2
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    • pp.180-203
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    • 2020
  • In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.