• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1060-1068
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• 1998

The effects of various catalysts and softners on the anti-crease finish of ramie with glyoxal were investigated. A number of metal salts commonly used as Lewis acid catalysts in DP finishing of cotton with formaldehyde and N-methylol agents were screened for glyoxal treatment of ramie fabric. Various organic and inorganic acids were mixed with Lewis acid catalyst as co-catalysts to improve catalytic activity. As a result, the combination of aluminum sulfate and citric acid was proven highly effective in catalyzing the crosslinking of ramie cellulose by glyoxal under lower curing temperature. With a mixed catalyst, performance properties, such as whiteness and tearing strength as well as wrinkle recovery of treated ramie fabric were improved as compared with that treated with aluminum sulfate alone. Additional improvement of tearing strength and wrinkle recovery was achieved by applying silicons softner in the treatment bath.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1015-1026
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• 2006

The purpose of the study were to find out (1) the effect of motives on perceiver's image perception on ramie fabrics, and perceiver's trait, age and gender on sensory image evaluation of ramie fabrics. The research was a quasi experiment and experimental materials developed for the study were a set of material stimuli and semantic differential scales to measure sensory image of the stimuli, an aesthetic value scale. the independent design was motif design techniques(Plain Weave, burnt-out, embroidery, stripe, check). The subjects were 421 adults in Daejeon and Seachun. The results was as follows: The factor analysis of semantic differential scales for the ramie materials emerged 4 different image dimensions: attractiveness, hand, elegance, weight). The five design techniques showed significantly different image affects on some selective dimensions. The burn-out design gave the most attractive image, the embroidery design gave the softest image and plain weaved fabric presented the lightest hand image. Consumer's aesthetic values, gender and age tended to affect sensory image evaluation of ramie materials. On conclusion the result revealed that design strategy for the ramie material, design development though motives will be an essential process. and for material design pursued design image and target consumer's trait should be carefully considered.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.220-228
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• 2010

This study examines the scouring effect of pectinase on ramie fabric and influence of sodium sulfate as an activator for pectinase. The scouring effects were measured by the weight loss and pectin contents. SEM, weight loss, stiffness, moisture regain and dye ability of ramie fabric teated with pectinase/sodium sulfate were also measured. When ramie fabrics were desized with $\alpha$-amylase, the optimum conditions were pH 6.5 at $60^{\circ}C$ for 80 min with 1%(o.w.f) $\alpha$-amylase concentration. When ramie fabrics were scoured with pectinase, the optimum conditions were pH 8.5 at $55^{\circ}C$ for 30 min with 10%(o.w.f) pectinase concentration. Addition of sodium sulfate improved enzyme activity significantly, which increased proportionally with increasing sodium sulfate concentration. When 50 g/l of sodium sulfate was added, the surface became cleaner compared to the enzyme treatment without salt: weight and tensile loss, moisture regain and dyeability of the treated fabrics increased, while pectin contents and stiffness decreased. Therfore, sodium sulfate was effective activator for the pectinase treatment of flax fiber.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.283-289
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• 1992

In this paper, dyeing properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same liquor-goods ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fibers but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, there fibers were similar and three were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white cotton fabric was higher in case of red dyes and it showed the difference of dye's properties. The degree of stain about white wool fabric showed the highs resistance or stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the dyes. used were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was consistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than that of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arose from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly oriented structure.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.75-80
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• 1998

In this paper, deying properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same dyeing bath ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fabrics but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, three fabrics were similar and there were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white fabric cotton was highest in case of red dyes. The degree of stain about white fabric wool showed the high resistance of stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the used dyes were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was cosistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arouse from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly ordered structure.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.161-171
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• 2013

The purpose of this research was to examine the subjective evaluation of sensory images and preferences according to the mechanical properties of linen and ramie fabrics for summer shirts. 54 male and female teachers evaluated the sensory images and preferences of 6 specimens of linen and ramie fabrics sold on the market. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, Mann-Whitney and Kruskal-Wallis test, Pearson correlation, and regression were used. The results were as follows: The sensory images of shirt fabrics were classified into 5 factors: 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'dry/coolness', and 'wetness'. There were partially significant differences by the gender and age in the sensory images for the shirt fabrics. Females were more sensitive than males for the 'stiffness', 'elasticity', and 'wetness' factor and the evaluators in their 20's felt fabrics were stiffer. The sensory images showed many correlations with the mechanical properties of fabric mostly. The preferences of tactile and purchase were no different according to the gender and age. They preferred a thin and soft sensory image as like ramie/cotton blended fabric and bamboo fabric for summer shirts. The significant sensory image factors affecting tactile preference were 'smoothness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity', and the ones affecting purchase preference were 'smoothness', 'stiffness', 'dry/coolness', and 'elasticity'. W, WT, MMD, and G properties of the mechanical properties of fabrics affected the tactile preference for summer shirt fabrics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

The sappan wood dyeing conditions and mordanting methods suitable for ramie as well as silk were investigated. The HVC values of dyed silk ramie fabrics were varied by the amount of sappan wood in the dyeing bath, while the optimum weight of sappan wood for the extraction of dye was around 15g/l. The K/S value of dyed silk fabric showed no significant difference in the pH range of 3.5 to 6.5. However, the K/S values of dyed ramie fabric was increased proportion to the pH value of dye bath. The K/S value of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were most increased at the highest dyeing temperature in the range of 30 to 9$0^{\circ}C$. By various mordantings, the HVC values of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were differentiated and it's color fastness could be improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.161-166
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• 1995

Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on protein and cellulose fabric. It contains safflower yellow and carthamin red. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye, while carthamin red is soluble in alkaline condition. Therefore the former was extracted by cold water. Cartamon obtained by adding acidic solution to carthamin red shows the original hue of safflower. In this study, the condition of extraction with bean stem ash solution and dyeing behavior of carthamon in safflower were examined by using the traditional dyeing method. The relationship between the dye-uptake(K/S) of silk and ramie fabric and the various extractions and dyeing conditions was investigated.