• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.66-84
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• 2023

Handbags are a part of fashion and while their significance and value are increasing, research on this topic is lacking. This study defines handbags and categorizes the materials used for making handbags, sewing methods, expression techniques, and terminologies related to accessories. A total of 1,743 handbags that were released from the Spring 2020 to Fall 2023, Ready-to-Wear collections by 8 selected brands (Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen), were analyzed. Out of these, 732 unique designs, excluding those with only color variations, were studied. The most common sewing methods were 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting', 'Cylinder arm sewing', 'Cut, edge painting, and sewing', and 'Inverted seam', in that order. Slim strap designs primarily used the 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting' method, whereas the body, especially with narrow and hard leather, was best suited for the 'Cylinder arm sewing machine'. For expression techniques, the most frequently used methods were 'Quilting', 'Metal Eyelet', 'Embossing', 'Printing', 'Punching', and 'Weaving', respectively. The characteristics of each brand's production methods, expression techniques, and accessories were as follows: First, the exposure of logos and monograms is prominent. Unlike clothing, handbags often prominently feature the brand's logo or monogram. Second, signature quilting is a prominent feature. Quilting effectively conveys the brand's signature style, providing cushioning, volume, and pattern effects. Third, sustainable development is a growing trend. Brands are increasingly applying eco-friendly and socially responsible designs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.75-96
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• 2000

Modern clothing is approached in the level of art, and it becomes the means of expressing individuality in modern society uniformed by the development of information society. In this modern society, modern men need the recovery of humanity and expectations of handcrafted skills for the succession of tradition culture. Prior to expressing individuality, we should examine our traditional culture and combine it with western culture. Quit started to be used for practical purpose such as life items, but it is expanded to the fields of art. Used in dress and its ornaments design, quilt is often applied to the addition of aesthetic factors or cubic material feelings by transforming its warming effect. Hereby, this study has a purpose to create high value added modern dross and its ornaments design by expressing the modern clothing is approached in the level of art, and it becomes the means of expressing individuality roe-dimensional characteristics of quilt, and applying the color combination and the surface of butterfly wings to dress and its ornaments design. The following are the results of this study. 1. The concept of quilt started for practical purposes, but it is expanded to decoration in modern times, and it is confirmed that quilt can be variously applied to handcrafted modern design. 2. Quilt removes the plane character of textile and it riches the three-dimensional material of dress and its ornaments. Applying these characteristics, the expression of transparent wings were possible with 3 transparent layers of textile. 3. The spledid color of butterfly wings are expressed by coloring oganza and felt, and the various colors of felt showed rich color gradation. 4. The form and pattern of butterfly wings are applied as modeling form and line, and the transformation. repetition and expansion of unit forms determined the form of quilting lines. By designing the characteristics of back wings for the composition line of clothing, the form characteristics of a motif could be emphasized. 5. By using felt, oganza, Damdam yarn and ostritch feathers in expressing butterfly wings, the warm material of Linbun is felt, and the tip hair of wings are expressed by croche techniques using Damdam yarn.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.472-477
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• 2011

In the tide of globalization, culture products play pivotal role in effectively introducing our tradition and culture to the world. This research is about developing culture products using our traditional lady's art craft work to attain the purpose of modern application through recreation of tradition along with modern technology. First, the types of traditional lady's art craft work include pouches, wrapping clothes and other accessories made by sewing except costumes. The materials used were cotton, silk, ramie, hemp and decorating techniques involved were embroidery, patchwork, quilting, knot. Second, the purpose of this study is developing culture products with traditional images which also satisfy modern sense. Therefore, items that could be used readily in daily life were selected. Such items include bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches. In addition, the Korean traditional Patchwork images which have both western-style and modern sense were selected out of the many kinds of traditional lady's art craft works. Third, cultural products (bags, mufflers, name card cases, brooches) were created by DTP in silk with sacdong and free-styled division Korean traditional Patchwork images and quilting technique. The significance of this study lies in examining the possibility of developing modern culture products using traditional lady's art craft work. A way to further develop this study would be to shed new light on traditional crafts and local cultural resources and actively carry on the study of cultural product development to provide the foundation for developing cultural products with modern applications.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.177-186
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• 2003

This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1353-1360
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a cultural products design of korean image using fabrics. The study is carry out in literature research methods and make sample product. We examine existing researches about cultural product design development to understand developed items, materials, and design directions. The brainstorming method and the established literature researches were used to obtain the design components of Korean image. A cultural products design was developed into the decorative structural details. The results can be summarized as follows: Korean image is pure, passive, gentle, small, and lasting life-force at weeds and wild flowers. Korean form is rounded curve and soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate. Korean color is not a finishing treatment, non-dyed natural color, or pastel, light greyish, and dull tone. Korean textile is a natural materials as linen, ramie, and coarse silk. Final sample products are table supplies, home goods and bed goods applying the sewing method of tuck, quilting, top-stitching, patch work, applique and embroidery.

• 과학기술학연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.139-175
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• 2014

지난 이십여 년 간 한국의 전문가 집단과 시민사회는 맞춤의학(personalized medicine)의 실현 여부와 그 효용을 둘러싸고 갑론을박을 벌여왔다. 이러한 논의들은 주로 맞춤의학이 실현가능한 약속인지 아니면 단순한 과장광고(hype)인지에 주로 초점을 맞추어 이루어졌는데, 이 글은 이러한 논의들이 '맞춤의학'이라는 용어의 '통시적 혼종성'과 '공시적 다의성'을 놓치고 있음을 지적한다. 본 연구는 맞춤의학을 행위자들에 의해 이용되는 수사적 도구(rhetorical device) 혹은 수사적 존재(rhetorical entity)로 보기를 제안하는 선행 연구를 좇아, 1998년부터 2013년까지 이루어진 약 9천 건의 국내 언론 보도 내용을 분석한다. 이를 바탕으로 한국에서는 '맞춤의학'이라는 용어가 기술과학 발전의 역사적 맥락에 맞추어 서로 다른 사회세계에 속하는 행위자들에 의해, 건강기능식품, 의료정보제공, 원격진료, 재생의학, 줄기세포연구, 환자중심진료, 질병중심임상처방, 사상체질의학을 가리키는 것으로 끊임없이 재정의 되어 왔음을 보이고자 한다. 이를 통해 이 글은 맞춤의학 거버넌스에 대한 정책적 제언과 이론적 기여의 두 가지를 시도한다. 정책적 제언과 관련해서 이 글은 현재 정책 연구들이 역사적 다의성을 고려하지 않은 결과 각기 다른 대상들을 맞춤의학으로 설정하고 분석을 전개하고 있으며, 맞춤 의학을 보편적인 과학적 실재로 가정함에 따라 미국의 ELSI 연구 결과들을 한국 상황의 분석에 그대로 적용하고 있음을 지적한다. 이론적 기여와 관련해서 이 글은 맞춤의학과 같은 신기술에 결부되는 정치적 함의를 검토할 수 있는 도구로 '기표-정치(signifiant-politics)'의 개념을 제시한다. 하나의 용어 단일한 기표가 다양한 의미체계 안에서 서로 다른 의미로 사용되는 현상은 이전에 세상에 존재하지 않던 새로운 기술과학이 혁신을 통해 등장하였을 때 관찰되는 것으로, 그를 지시하는 기표로서 언어가 갖는 본질적 결여가 파생한 결과로 볼 수 있다. 신기술 분야에서 정책결정과 거버넌스가 중요한 것은 이 이유 때문이다. 신기술정책은 바로 이러한 기표의 무한한 흐름과 미끄러짐을 정박(碇泊)시키는, 의미의 고정점이자 기표의 누빔점(point de capiton, quilting point)이 된다는 점에서 상징계에서 중대한 의미를 지닌다. 이 사례연구에서 볼 수 있었듯이, 기술정책 등의 사회적 합의가 누빔점을 제공하기 이전까지 신기술의 기표가 갖는 의미의 미끄러짐을 활용하는 행위자들의 특징을 기표-정치(signifiant-politics)라고 부를 것을 조심스럽게 제안하고자 한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.217-224
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• 2007

This paper investigated spring/summer fabric trends of women's and analyzed the correlation between the fabric trends and finishing for 10 years (1995 S/S-2004 S/S). Fabric trend terms were selected from 5 fashion journals and were grouped by hierarchical cluster analysis using SPSS 12.0 statistical package. Also, finishing terms were selected and analyzed by frequency. The results showed that 13 representative fabric trend terms were clean, functional, lustrous, compact, rubbery, comfortable, chic, romantic, decorative, natural, fluid, textured, and ethnic trend. In terms of fabric finishing, 12 representative finishing were selected such as coating, calendaring, wrinkle finishing, decorative finishing, quilting, and washing. Finally, in respect of the analysis of fabric trends and finishing, washing and embroidery were used to represent ethnic trends and textured fabric was closely correlated wrinkle and decorative finishing. Fluid fabrics were expressed via wrinkle and coating and washing and wrinkle were used for natural feeling. Decorative fabric was expressed by embroidery and coating and decorative finishing were frequently used to show romantic and chic fabric. Also comfortable fabrics were correlated with easy care and rubbery, compact, lustrous, and clean fabrics were correlated with coating.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.161-182
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• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.