• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.25-36
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• 2007

As the materials being used in children's clothing become diverse, the number of reported problems related to various aspects of washing and wearing is increasing. Many customers experience great dissatisfaction when using these children's garments due to their lack of professional knowledge in washing, fabric, and detergents. Thus, this paper focuses on various cases in which housewives have experienced product damage after washing their children's garments according the prescribed directions. Of particular interest is how the consumers respond to such damage in garments and how their experiences with garment damage affect the sellers of these garments. A total of 292 housewives with children less than 8 years old living in Seoul responded to our survey, out of which 83 reported to have suffered negative consequences. By analyzing the 83 responses, the following results were found: First, the problems reported by the housewives in regards to washing children's garments were mostly related to the durability or color change problems. Secondly, the most favored means of response to garment damage were 'complaining directly to the seller' (16.7%) and 'complaining at the customer service department of the manufacturer or seller' (13.5%). Thirdly, among the actions they requested to the seller/manufacturer, 'ask for an exchange' marked the highest. Lastly, respondents admitted that their experiences with garment damage as well as the attitude or response of the manufacturer/retailer to their complaints would influence their repurchase intention.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.493-511
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• 2000

The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.68-79
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• 1997

In this thesis which takes fashion advertising that functions a marketing communication as an objective, I try to bear witness to the signifying system of garments though analyzing with semiotic methodology the signifying procedure on the base of the structural concept of Ferdinand de Saussure and the advertisement semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, to make clear their signifying structure and it meaning by understanding the characteristics of contemporary society and its cognitive system. Each sign of fashion advertising transfers the brand image through syntagmatic signification which contains the mythology of goods. Mannish style is encoded as tailored jacket, white shirt, H-silhouette and pants, non-color or being color, and it is presented as a clothing sign of casual wear for career women. Feminine style is encoded as X-silhouette, soutien collar suit style, various colors, and other details with womanly image, and it is presented as a clothing sign for maid or young wife 20\`s or 30\`s. Formal style is encoded as jacket vest, inner wear(blouse), two and three piece dress by pants or skirt and one-piece dress, and it is used in every age and class. Casual style is similar to formal style, but differs only in textile code. Clothing sign for housewives in middle age is encoded as H-silhouette of formal style, long jacket and pants and brown, being and grey colors. Contemporary popular phenomena in the signification of fashion advertising, and its temporal ideology reflected are as follows; According to the context of fashion advertising in the middle of 1990\`s, its fashion is that first, military look applied from the designs of various sort of military uniform and vest look and pant style applied from dandy-style imitated from man\`s wear are popuar. This mean that it reflects the change of point of view on woman\`s role in society today. That is, due to the equality between man and woman, it mirrors the ideology of feminism, and then, describes beautifully professional woman with carrer. Second, because that individualism is underlied for the change of consumer\`s consciousness, standardized popularity is disappeared, and in accordance with the mixture of various trends and personalities proposed every season, layered look that emphasizes individualism, easiness and naturalness is popular.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2017

Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.764-776
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.146-156
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors that influence consumers' adoption of performance infants' wear made of functional textiles. Based on Innovation Diffusion Model, product attributes, consumer traits, and communication characteristics were considered. A survey was carried out with a convenience sample of 241 housewives who have infants under 4 year-old, living in the Seoul metropolitan area. To analyze the data, SPSS 10.0 was used employing ANOVA, Duncan's post-hoc comparison, $X^2$, and f-test. The participants were classified into 4 groups based on their levels of adoption of performance infants' wear: No-Cognition, Negative Attitude, Positive Attitude, and Purchasing groups. There were significant differences among the four groups in terms of their perception of product attributes, communication characteristics, and personal traits. In terms of product attributes, the Positive Attitude group and Purchasing group showed higher perception of relative advantage, compatibility, trialability and observability than other groups. These groups were also high in terms of their tendency of actively seeking for additional product information, and particularly relied on the information from experts on TV or the Internet, personal experience posted on the Internet, or their own experience. Those who were in professional, well-educated and high income brackets were more likely to be Purchasing group than Positive Attitude group, which means once the positive attitude was formed they are likely to purchase the product.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

콘크리트포장에 초기균열을 일으키는 중요한 인자 중 하나는 콘크리트 내부의 초기온도이다. 따라서 콘크리트포장의 초기균열 발생원인을 연구하기 위해서는 초기온도를 계측하여 분석하는 일이 필요하다. 본 논문에서는 초기균열이 발생하는 슬래브 장소와 초기균열의 발생시간이 초기온도패턴에 어떤 영향을 받는지를 검증하였고 더불어, 줄눈부에서 발생하는 균열의 발생시점과 시공시간과의 관계도 알아보았다. 본 논문을 위해서 "중부내륙고속도로 여주-충주간 제 1공구 시험도로 건설공사구간 STATION 1+400$\sim$1+700" 지점에서 시험시공이 이루어졌으며, 시공 후 72시간 동안 i-Button(온도계측센서)을 이용하여 온도계측을 시행하였으며, 초기균열의 거동은 Demec gauge를 사용하였으며, 초기균열 및 줄눈부 균열은 육안으로 확인하였다. 초기온도패턴과 초기균열의 분석 결과, 콘크리트의 초기온도패턴은 슬래브에 초기균열이 발생하는 위치와 시각에 영향을 주는 것으로 나타났다 초기균열균열은 온도낙차폭이 가장 큰 슬래브에서 발생하였으며, 그 시각은 슬래브의 온도가 급강하하는 새벽이었다. 또한, 콘크리트 슬래브의 거동이 인근 줄눈부에 발생한 초기균열에 따라 영향을 받으며. 줄눈부에 발생한 균열의 발생시기가 서로 다를 경우에 균열의 거동이 달라질 수 있다는 가능성이 제시되었다. 그 외에도, 오전에 시공한 슬래브에서의 균열 발생률이 오후에 시공한것보다 더 큰 것으로 나타났으며, 균열의 발생 간격이 큰 균열이 그렇지 않은 균열보다 더 큰 균열틈을 보였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.