• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.162-179
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• 2016

This study examined the 17th century wedding ceremonies of princes and princesses recorded in the "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)". The Joseon dynasty royal weddings were held outside the palace, so it could have influenced wedding ceremonies of commoners. Royal weddings for princes and princesses were considered to be on a level between that of a king and commoners. Wedding procedure of princes and princesses was carried out under the leadership of the royal family who officiated at a marriage with the king's approval. In addition, kindred of the king and high-ranking officials participated as the maid of honor in the wedding parade. This was completely different between the royal wedding and the scholar-gentry ones. A difference between the prince and the princess was that the princess paid her respect to the shrine of the house of her groom after the wedding ceremony. However, there was no process for the prince's bride. There also existed a wide disparity in the wedding goods of princes and princesses. The prince and the king's son-in-law both held a wedding ceremony to wear Chopo, but there was a difference in decoration or quantity of Danlyeong(團領) Cheollik(帖裏) Hoseul(護膝) belts. Only princes were allowed to use the ornamental knife and the embroidered pouch. While both the princess and prince's wife wore No-ui(露衣) and Jangsam(長衫) as the wedding clothes, there was discrimination of position in terms of hair decoration, Hwalhansam(闊汗衫), skirt, Hosu(胡袖) and Ni-ui(裏衣). There was also a difference of quantity of Jeogori and skirts, as well as various styles of gold decorations in order to distinguish the Gongju(daughter of the king) and the Gunju (daughter of the crown prince)'s position.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.275-280
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• 1991

To analyze tablewares and table flowers in wedding ceremonies of king and royal prince (1866, 1906) of Chosun dynasty, the author studied the historic book-Gare Dogam Euigwae, in which wedding feast dishes for king and prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows. 1. Tablewares used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1866, 1096 were same as that of from the year 1744 till 1819. 2. For wedding feast dishes for the prince, black lacquered table was used, for the crown prince's wedding feast red lacquered table and for the Emperor's wedding feast yellow lacquered table were used. 3. Table flowers used for wedding ceremony in the year of 1866, 1906 were same as that of from the year 1744 till 1819.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.21-29
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• 1991

To analyze tableware in wedding ceremonies of royal prince(1744, 1819) of Chosun Dynasty, the author studied the historic book-Gare Dogam Euigwae, in which wedding feast dishes for King and prince in Chosun Dynasty were described. The results obtained from the study were as follows, 1. For wedding feast dishes for prince, black lacquered table was used, and for King's wedding feast red lacquered table was used. 2. In wedding ceremony red silk table cloth was used. 3. Tables arranged in wedding ceremony had high legs. 4. Tablewares used in wedding ceremony were footed dishes. 5. Wedding ceremony arrangement was made up of four kinds of main table, a small boiled beef table, a large boiled beef table, four small round tables, a dining table, a candle stick, a incense holder, a vase with vaseholder and a liquor bottle with a holder.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2009

A state wedding ceremony of kings and crown princes in the Chosun Dynasty was systemically formalized in a book Five National Ceremonies (1474) as one of the five major formal events of the royal auspicious ceremonies(Ga-rae). For a state wedding, Ga-rae Protocol was made by a devision for Ga-rae temporarily established for the occasion. A total number of auspicious ceremony protocols of kings and crown princes amounts to 20 in the span of 279 years. Among the proposals, the wedding of Soon-jong in the Imo Year of 1882 is described most thoroughly. Nap-bin-ui(reception of bride) comprises six rituals which are nap-chae, nap-jing, go-gyi, chaek-bin, chin-young, and dong-ryae. A grand formal costume of the crown prince is granted based on the 'Seven Parts Formal Costume' of the first year of the king Moon-jong in 1450 together with an official costume for crown prince(Gon-myeon-chil-jang) arranged in the third year of the king Young-rak. In the royal palace of the Chosun Dynasty, the granted formal costume of the crown prince is officially recorded as a code and presented in a Gwon-ji-il section of the Formalities of the Five National Ceremonies. The formal costume and its accessory set for the crown prince recorded as a code are described in Sangbang Jeong-ryae as the formal costume of the crown prince section published by the king's request at the high senate commission in the 28th year of the king Young-jo in 1752. The aim of the study is to investigate the formal costume of the crown prince as an auspicious ceremonial costume worn at the wedding in the year of Imo.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.287-299
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• 1990

To analyse the royal marriage of Yi-Dynasty, the authors studied 'Kuk Hon Geong Rea', which is a historical record, published in 1749(King Yong-Jo), on the usage of marriage articles in the royal family. The essential steps or articles described in the record were as follows, Royal marriage of King : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, proclamation of Queen and wedding ceremony(納采) (納徵) (冊妃) (親迎 尊雁 同牢). Royal marriage of Crown Prince : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's. proclamation of Crown Princess, wedding ceremony, and bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (冊嬪) (親迎 尊雁 同牢) (朝見體). Royal marriage of Crown Princess : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, wedding ceremony, bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (尊雁 同牢) (見舅姑禮). Necessary articles for weddings were different according to royal status of the member in the royal family.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.382-396
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• 2024

"Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.43-58
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• 1990

To analyze wedding feast dishes of royal prince (1651, 1696) of Choson Dynasty, studied Gare Dogam Euigwae. Historic book 'Gare Dogam Euigwae' discribed wedding feast dishes of king‘s Choson Dynasty. The results obtained from this study are as follows. Dishes were arranged in four kinds of table, the first one called the main table, the second the right side table, the third the left side table, the fourth the confronting side table. Dishes of main table were oil and honey pastry, and fruits (pine nuts, orange, dried persimmon, torreya nuts, dried chestnut, jujube). Dishes of the second table and the third table were oil and honey pastry, and small cake made of honey and rice with patterns pressed in it. Dishes of the fourth table were cooked vegetable (wild ginseng, platy-codon, radish, white gourd melon, ginger), dried slices of meat seasoned with spices (abalone, octopus, shark, pheasant), cooked meat (wild goose, fowl, egg, pheasant, abalone), and fried fish (roe deer, fish, duck, pigeon, sparrow). The main table (同牢大宴床) and the second table (右挾床) stand as a symbol for integrity. The third table (左挾床) symbolize longerity. The fourth table (面挾床) symbolize bearing many young and connubial felicity.

• 복식
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• 제16권
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2011

Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.