• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.768-777
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• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.162-167
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Cinnamoum cassia by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, dye fastness and antimicrobial properties. The colorant of Cinnamoum cassia was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk by mordants concentration were much higher than those of high-concentration, the color yield of the silk fabrics were most efficient the premordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark except AI-mordant. The chroma produced clear for the unmordanting, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. In the case of the light fastness, Cu-mordants improved more than 1-2 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity on the silk fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.