• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

This study was carried out on the process of natural dye substances which can flock ultraviolet rays without producing harmful substances by pollution, germs, etc. While making human body safe in contact, extracting Gardenia, Sappan wood, Radix scutellariae, Cromwell, Mugwort, Gallnut, Lac. Those are used for curing diseases, dyeing silk cloth with those extracts, and examining the color fastness, Ultraviolet protection. From this study, the following conclusion was produced. Brightness was lower in pre-mordanting than in post. And color difference showed that Radix scutellariae was the highest. Aluminum-mordanting showed a higher color difference than Fe. Colorfastness to washing was high in all samples, and the degree of color-changing by washing was the highest in the sample dyed by gardenia, pre-mordanted gallnut showed the highest degree. Colorfastness to perspiration was the highest in gardenia. UV-A test showed that all samples a high rate of 85% or higher compared with test white cloth. Especially, post-mordanted radix scutellariae, pre-mordanted gallnut and post-mordanted sappanwood showed a superior blocking rate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.290-298
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• 2016

In this study, the efficacy of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a new natural dye resource was investigated. For this purpose, the colorants from water lily leaves were extracted in methanol, evaporated, and powdered. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FTIR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins and chrolophyll were contained in the extracted colorants. The colorants showed good affinity to cotton fiber showing Y Munsell color. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method. By mordanting, dyed fabrics exhibited various colors such as green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. Colorfastness to washing and rubbing was relatively good showing 4-5 rating. The light fastness was improved 1-2 rating by Fe mordanting. The dyed cotton fabric showed antimicrobial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.85-92
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• 2012

This was a study examining the fatliquoring of natural dyed cow skin with Coptis chinensis Franch. The K/S according to optimal dyeing condition, mordants and mordanting method was measured. And the surface, sections, tensile strength, elongation, stiffness and colorfastness according to post-dyeing fatliquoring were observed. The optimal conditions include 300%(o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 30 minites. Fe-simmordanting showed the highest dyeability. Coptis chinensis Franch showed a yellow color regardless of mordants and mordanting methods. Tensile strength and elongation increased in the case of simmordanting compared with untreated and the process of fatliquoring further increased. The softness significantly increased when fatliquored. Shrinkage was slightly reduced when dyed, but showed almost no change with fatliquoring. Lastly, color fastness increased overall with mordanting and partly increased with fatliquoring. The rubbing and light fastness were excellent Cu- mordanting, and drycleaning fastness also improved with Cr-mordanting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.10-19
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• 2006

Despite several recent attempts to measure the concentration of individual catechins by HPLC, it has not been so easy to separate catechins accurately. The aim of the present work is to provide a proper condition for separating each component of catechins by HPLC analysis, and also to evaluate the experimental variables including color differences, and metal ion contents after dyeing and mordanting. Four kinds of Catechins, (-)-epicatechin(EC), (-)-epicatechin gallate(ECG), (-)-epigallocatechin(EgC), (-)-epigallocatechin gllate(EgCG) were isolated from the residues after dyeing. Catechins in Korean green tea leaves are richer when e tea leaves are younger. Higher concentration of catechins owes it to e way it is processed. The contents of catechins adsorbed in silk fabrics after dyeing were in order of EGCG>ECG>EGC>EC. We have found $68\%$ uptake of EGCG, and 116.8mg of EGCG in the silk fabrics after it was dyed with $1\%$ Korean green tea extracts. The absorbance intensity and K/S values of dyed silk fabrics were increased with dyeing temperature and time. Only the surface color of the silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was yellowish red, but it changed from yellowish red to red with an increase in the mordant concentration. Post-mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate changed from yellowish red to red and purple color shade. In a practical evaluation, there is no significant change in color after twenty times of the continuous dry cleaning process. However, post-mordanted fabrics with ferrous sulfate faded the brightness of color after dry cleaning. Dyeing silk fabrics with a Korean tea extract reduced the metal ion contents in the silk fabrics when compared to the untreated silk fabrics. Metal contents in silk fabrics dyed and post-mordanted with $1\%$ each metal solution were 0.194 ppm for Aluminum, 1.601ppm for Copper, and 0.334 ppm for Iron. After the post-mordanting process, the heavy metal ion absorption increased, which was mainly attributed to the catechins and polyphenols in dyed silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.85-91
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• 2009

Dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed pig skin with Coptis chinensis Franch was investigated. Dyestuff was extracted with water and concentrated. Pig skin was dyed and mordanted according to various dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyestuff concentration, mordanting methods and kinds of mordants. The results of this experiment were as follows: 1. Dyeability of pig skin with Coptis chinensis Franch was best at 200%(owf) dyestuff concentration, 50${^{\circ}C}$ dyeing temperature, and 20min. dyeing time. 2. Pre-mordanting by Cu improved the K/S values of dyed pig skin. 3. Surface color and color difference of dyed pig skin showed various results according to the mordants used : generally their color was yellow, Al post-mordanted pig skin showed the greatest color difference. 4. Color fastness to drycleaning was considerably high in case of staining compared to fading. Fastness to light was improved by Cu-mordanting while other treatments were not effective. 5. Antimicrobial property of samples was not different (99.9%) between untreated and treated.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.254-262
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• 2014

In this study, the colorants of Wisteria floribunda leaf were extracted with water. Silk and wool fabrics have been dyed with the aqueous extract of Wisteria floribunda leaf and their dyeabilities was studied. Additionally the fastness to washing, drycleaning, light and perspiration were also investigated. Silk and wool fabrics dyed with the extract of Wisteria floribunda leaf were colored in yellowish red tint. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from Wisteria floribunda leaf was three repeated dyeing at 70, $95^{\circ}C$ for 1hr using post mordanting. For dyed silk and wool fabrics, the fastness to washing was improved by mordanting, and the fastness to drycleaning was very outstanding.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.