• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.281-287
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. In previous study, dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out and Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. For further evaluation of its efficacy as a new natural dye resource, effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for silk fiber. Metasequoia cone colorant showed good affinity toward silk fiber showing YR Munsell color and maximum dye uptake was shown at pH 3.5. Post-mordanting with Cu and Fe improved dye uptake, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabrics with mordanting showed YR Munsell color. Fe mordanted fabrics appeared dark gray~black color. Colorfastness to washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics showed grade 2. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorant can be used as a new dye resource for silk fiber getting brownish yellow to dark gray/black color depending on mordant type. In addition, it showed antimicrobial functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.218-229
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of cotton and ramie fabrics with pine needles colorants were studied by investigating the analysis of pine needles colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use; in addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of the maximum absorption for pine needles extract was 285nm, and pine needles colorants produced a yellow color. From FT-IR and GC-MS results, it was assumed that chromophoric substance from pine needles extracts were mixed with flavonol tannin and flavanol tannin. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake and a Freundlich absorption isotherm was obtained. A larger dye uptake occurred as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting and the dye uptake of fabrics improved by mordanting. The colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a low rating; however, colorfastness to washing and dry cleaning of cotton fabrics mordanted with N.Cu, and friction fastness of ramie fabric mordanted with Cu improved. The dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. In addition, the ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability improved in fabrics dyed with pine needles extracts.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.35-41
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• 2008

This study investigated the dyeing properties of silk fabrics with Annatto. The dye stuff was extracted by distilled water at $60^{\circ}C$, 10minutes, 1:100 of bath ratio. Dyeability(K/S) and color fastness of silk fabrics were tested under conditions of various concentrations, time, temperature, repeat-numbers of dyeing, pH, mordants variables and methods of mordanting. The highest absorbance was found in methanol extract of Annatto. The optimum dyeing concentration, time and temperature of silk fabrics with Annatto were 25%(o.w.f.), 60min and $60^{\circ}C$ respectively. The K/S value showed higher in post-mordanting than in pre-mordanting, and especially post-Fe mordant showed highest K/S value. In the case of colorfastness, Cu-mordanted fabrics were good washing fastness. Dry cleaning fastness appeared 4-5 grades and light fastness showed lowest grade.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.89-95
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• 2020

In this study, the efficacy of Amaranth(Amaranthus spp. L.) as a natural dye resource was investigated for wool fabrics. It is known that a large amount of flavonoid and anthocyanin colorant are contained in leaves and stems, as well as red flowers. The optimum condition of dyeing was 1.3% of dye concentration(o.w.b.) at 100℃ for 60 minutes, resulting the K/S value, 23.43 and R Munsell color on the wool fabrics. Al, Fe, Zinc and Titanium were used as a mordant. The mordant improved the dye uptake, regardless of the mordant type and mordant method. The pre-mordanting method was more effective than the post-mordanting method. Al pre-mordanted fabric showed the highest K/S, 30.02. Light fastness and washing fastness were high in grades 4-5 and 5, and rubbing fastness was good in grades 4 and 4-5 in dry condition, but low in grades 2-3 and 3 in wet condition. The dry cleaning fastness was excellent in all 5 grades. However, the alkaline perspiration fastness ratings were low in grades 2-3 and 3. The results show Amaranthus spp. L. colorant can be used as a functional natural dye for wool fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.336-346
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of protein fiber with bamboo colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures, times on dye uptakes, effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. In addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. The dye uptake increased as the dyeing concentration increased. Bamboo colorants showed relatively good affinity to protein fiber and produced a yellow color. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting. Mordants, Fe and N.Fe, were effective for increasing dye uptake. The color of fabric mordanted with Cu and N.Cu changed to GY. Colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a relatively good rating, and mordanting had no significant effect on colorfastness. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. Also, ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved in silk fabric dyed with bamboo extracts.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.