• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the relations between Pop Art and pop music, which formed a serious coupling loop in an identical cultural background. Also this study intends to set up a position of visualized sexual identity as it Points out the conceptional characteristics of glam, a subculture outside mainstream, which includes the matters of sexual minorities such as homosexuality and bisexuality under the influence of the aesthetic and philosophical composition by Andy Warhol. In conjunction herewith, we explore the visual representation of glam style focusing on the influence of Warhol. The classification and explanation about the visual representation of glam style under the influence of Warhol are practised by distinguishing as denotative representation and connotative representation. For the denotative representation shown in the glum style, first, the discordant images were put together by bricolage, then adapted into the new dramatic symbol of youth. Second, through a visually androgynous style a subversion of sex for symbols of sexuality and gender was represented. Third, the factitiveness as a weird display and fallacy is shown from boisterous make-up and unisex sかling in theatricality and put-ons, featuring artificiality, assemblage and unnaturality. And the connaotative representation shown in glum inglam style, first, glam style implies its experimental nature which attempts to break down boundaries between masculinity and femininity, homosexuality and heterosex-uality. Second, the bricolage in sequin and other discordant elements have connotative meanings as sensuality and excessiveness. Third, mixing various style as sexual play shows ironic visual images, in accordance with Superior Theory and Discord Theory.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.103-121
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• 2002

This study intended to analyze the transition of design of Korean soccer player's uniform according to development of the society and changes in formative elements, and examine features inside them by considering designs of soccer player's uniform by ages ranging from the introduction of soccer up to now. Results of the study are summed up below. First, as a result of analyzing designs of soccer player's uniforms from 1920 to 2002 Korea-Japan WorldCup based on formative elements of the style of dress. \circled1 it is shown that basic shape has been kept but changes in only color. cutting, trimming, logo and symbol have existed. \circled2 Colors of the uniforms have been different according to ages but red, blue and white colors have been used most and sometimes black was employed. so it is known that colors in the Korean national emblem have been all used. \circled3 In the beginning of the uniform there was a limitation in its design due to absence of functional materials but now highly-sensitive textile products and highly-functional textile materials guaranteeing optimal condition and highest activity of a soccer player have been utilized in various ways. \circled4 It is known that symbols modelling the image of Korea have been used in diverse ways but effected much by directions toward images pursued by designers of sponsors. Second, the meanings represented by designs of the uniforms are classified into a degree of symbolizing Korea, tradition, superiority and dynamics. That is to say, \circled1as colors and symbols coming from the emblem have been used in the uniforms. they have symbolized one nation and possessed the meaning representing even Korean national spirit. \circled2As traditional colouring and symbols have been used in the uniforms, they have shown the Korean sense of a beauty. \circled3 Colors, tones and designs overwhelming the mood of play have been used in the uniforms, so that they have played a role in making players of other team flinch mentally and making Korean players gain an advantage over them. \circled4 Thanks to strong symbols or comparative effects of colors. they have shown the dynamics representing power and energy.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.77-85
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• 2009

In modem society, fashion is used as a means to express oneself. Colors in fashion are regarded as one of the important design elements and play a significant role. Today men's fashion trend represents to adopt diverse silhouettes, colors and various materials. They can choose diverse color for men's fashion. Brown has been popular colors for both man and woman. It usually represents the image of warm, comfort and classic. This research analyzed Brown whose diverse uses had been observed in fashion and the characteristics of Brown the color combinations in men's fashion through men's fashion collection from 2000 to 2008. The characteristics of color combinations with Brown analyzed two color combinations for the top and bottom as follows: First, the hue characteristics of Brown two color combinations were analyzed in men's fashion. Second, the tone characteristics of Brown two color combinations were analyzed in men's fashion. Third, the characteristics of color combinations were analyzed in the Brown top and bottom according to the hues in men's fashion. The Brown color combinations were analyzed according to the 10 hues and achromatic colors. As a result, 10YR was most used in both the top and bottom in F/W and S/S. As for the Brown color combinations of the 12 tones and achromatic colors in the top and bottom, dark grayish was the most used in S/S and F/W regardless of the seasons. The Brown color combinations in men's fashion were analyzed in terms of characteristics. As a result, 10YR and 2.5Y were most used. They were also of the highest frequency in the color combinations of Brown tops and bottoms.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothing appropriate for the lower body types of male students who play sports in college. The study was conducted by means of targeting 151 male sports majors between $18{\sim}27$ years of age. Characteristics of the respondents were ascertained by means of questionnaires and an evaluation of a total of 36 lower body features. The results of the study are as follows. 1. A comparison of anthropometric measurements with the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) revealed that the main characteristics of the lower somatotypes of male sports college students are large circumferences and developed muscles of the lower body. 2. Sports were classified into the following five categories : soccer, bodybuilding, wrestling, judo, and taekwondo. In particular, bodybuilding students demonstrated a somatotype with an increased circumference, depth, and width of the thigh and lower body. 3. Somatotypes were classified into 3 types by means of a cluster analysis employing S factors. Type 1 somatotype exhibits a large circumference in the lower body. Type 2 is a lower somatotype of a middle size. Finally, Type 3 encompasses a smaller group in weight and circumference with a developed calf and ankle. 4. Each group was evaluated using a discriminatory analysis as a check to see if the groups had been discriminated with accuracy. The total accuracy rate was 96.0%.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.417-430
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• 2016

This study had two aims. First, the study intended to identify the influences of product benefits and product identification on consumers' purchase intention, Second, it wanted to assess the moderating effects of consumers' aesthetic seeking tendency on their decision-making process. Based on the stimulus-organism-response (S-O-R) paradigm and the product personality-brand identification-purchase intention model, this study proposed a research model, the benefits-product identification-purchase intention model. To test the model, a survey was conducted of female college students; a total of 298 questionnaires were analyzed. The stimulus used was a popular model of Nike running footwear: the Luna Eclipse+2. Factor analysis and structural equation analysis were conducted to analyze the research model. The results indicate : (1) The aesthetic benefit influenced product identification positively. The aesthetic benefit, functional benefit and product identification were all positively related to purchase intention. (2) The aesthetic seeking tendency mediated the influences of product benefits on consumers' purchase intention in the decision-making process. For consumers in the 'high' level group of aesthetic seeking tendency, aesthetic benefit and social benefit affected purchase intention and for consumers in the 'low' level group of aesthetic seeking tendency, the functional benefit only affected purchase intention. Based on this study, we find evidence that product benefits and aesthetic seeking tendency play important roles in consumers' decision-making process in product purchase.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.75-89
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to verify the mediating effect of store benevolence for impact on store loyalty of store environment and store personality. For this study, data were collected through questionnaires. The survey ran from March to May, 2011, the total of 330 respondents was used in analysis. The subjects consisted of adults living in the Daegu and Gyeongsangbuk-do region, and convenience sampling. For statistical analysis, SPSS 19.0 were used to verify the study model. The major results of the study show that store benevolence may play a linkage role of store environment, store personality on store loyalty. The store benevolence variable has the effect of partial mediation. The analysis of relationship between the variables of store environment (convenience, information service accessibility, accessibility, variation) and the store type show significant differences store environment (convenience, information service and the store type). The analysis of relationship between the variables of store personality(warm, fun, sophisticated, forward-looking) and the store type show significant differences store personality (warm, fun, sophisticated, forward-looking) and store type. The analysis of relationship between the variables of store environment(convenience, information service accessibility, accessibility, variation), and the demographic variables show significant differences in store environment (information service accessibility) regarding only age. The analysis of relationship between the variables of store personality(warm, fun, sophisticated, forward-looking) and the demographic variable show significant differences in store personality(warm) regarding only age (accessibility, accessibility, variation).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.285-297
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• 2019

Retail firms have begun to pursue the marketing strategies, which stimulate consumers' sensibility and lead people to purchase their products. The visible effects of visual merchandising (VM) arouse consumers' interest and play an effective role in having busy people efficiently choose products. Apparel retail stores such as SPA use the offline store to be the experiential environment of their branding. Consumers' sensitivity and response toward various visual merchandising strategies needs to be accessed. The purpose of this study is to identify VM consciousness and VM evaluation attribute factors. Relationship of such variables with other variables were accessed. As consequence variables, product satisfaction and unplanned purchase behavior were included in the study. An empirical survey data was collected from men and women of various ages. Results indicated that VM consciousness and VM evaluation attribute factors were not correlated with consumer demographic variables. VM evaluation attributes were factored into appropriateness, attractiveness and functionality dimensions. Clothing involvement and brand orientation significantly influenced product satisfaction and unplanned purchase. The direct and indirect effect (via VM consciousness) were significant. For unplanned purchase, brand orientation only had indirect effect. The influence of VM evaluation attribute factors were significant. Appropriateness had stronger effect on product satisfaction whereas attractiveness had stronger effect on unplanned behavior. Functionality dimension had only indirect effect on product satisfaction but did not show significant direct and indirect effects on unplanned purchase. This study identified the pivotal role of VM consciousness in various shopping and purchasing circumstances in offline retail store of apparel brands.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.