• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.85-94
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• 1999

The fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb in the Kaya period were examined. Most of fabrics examined were composed of hemp and silk. Considering that silk was found in the old tomb of the Kaya period in the late 5th century and that various kinds of silk were used in the other area silk was assumed to be used before 5th century in the Kaya period. Only the structure of the densely plain weaved fabrics were analysed as silk and the other physical properties of the fabrics could not be the examined fabrics were plain weaved and altered structure with twill and plain weaving were found indicating that diverse weaving structures were used in the Kaya period. This indicate a certain level of cultural exchange between Kaya and Silla PaikJae, Kokuryo and weaving technique were almost similar in the Korean peninsula in the 5th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.35-47
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• 2001

This is a research about the fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb which was built around the early 5th century to the mid of the 6th century. Most of the remains have one kind of fabric attached to them, but there are cases where different sorts of fabrics are attached, where one kind is attached in layers, and there are also cases where the layer is made of different types of fabrics. Although they are made of warps and wefts with no twists, there can be an S twist on the weft or on both the warp and weft, and only one Z twist can be seen. There are 81 fabrics of plain weaved, one of transformed plain weaved and five 4-end complex gauze in these remains. The sparsest plain weaved fabric has the density of 7.4 strands/cm, while the most dense fabric has the density of 148.2$\times$129.1 strands/cm and 0.046$\times$0.061/mm thickness in thread. All the fabrics observed by SEM are hemp except one silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.173-186
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• 1999

the object of this thesis is to find out the Chosun Dynasty's Fabrics of 17th century which founded in the buddhist statutes. The total 43 pieces of fabrics can be classified chronologically as follows; 14 pieces in the year of 1641, 18 pieces of 1679, and 12 pieces of 1701, These fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 25 plain weaved 8 twill weaved and 5 pieces of satine weaved. I could confirmed the width of fabrics are 38cm and 38.5cm through these fabrics. Because of the fabrics were composed of mainly plain weaved silk Chu. There weren't many fabrics with motif. The fabrics within the buddhist statues have their own meaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.