• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to analyze and minimize structural error between sample knitting and actual knitting in weft knitting apparel. Basic stitches used in this study were plain stitch, $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, Milan rib stitch. They were knitted into two different gauges(7 and 12 gauge) and 6 different sample sizes by computer program. The weight, length and width of these 5 basic knitting stitches were measured and their changes according to gauge, stitch and knitting were calculated and analyzed. The results were as follows; The weight of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by Milan rib stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, plain stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. As the density of stitch per unit area increases, the weight increases. The length of $0{\times}0$ rib stitch was the largest, followed by plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch and Milan stitch in both 7 and 12 gauge. As the number of course increases, the length increases accordingly. However, its increase ratio shows higher than that of number of course. It means that the reduction in number of course is needed to get aimed length. The width of Milan rib stitch was the largest, followed by $0{\times}0$ rib stitch, plain stitch, $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, $1{\times}1$ rib stitch in 7 gauge. In 12 gauge, Milan stitch, plain stitch and $0{\times}0$ rib stitch were the highest, followed by $2{\times}2$ rib stitch and $1{\times}1$ rib stitch. It showed that the change in shape of stitch influenced on the width more than the length of stitch.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.990-995
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• 2011

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of A/W knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib > plain > float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float > plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.68-76
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate change of mechanical and physical properties, shape behavior and hand value in weft knit when rib stitch and milan stitch are combined. The knit stitches used in this study are plain stitch, half milan rib stitch, milan rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ half milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch. We analyzed physical and mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight) of the knit stitches and calculated their primary hand value and total hand value through translational formulas using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The results are as follows; In evaluation of mechanical properties and hand values of knit stitches, plain stitch had the highest flexibility and the lowest T.H.V. as women's winter knit wear. Since $2{\times}1$ rib stitch had too high elongation in one direction, although it had the highest T.H.V, it needs to be careful when plain stitch and $2{\times}1$ rib stitch are applied for women's winter knit wear. Since Milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch had high T.H.V. similarly, it is considered that they are suitable for women's winter knit wear. Specially, when Milan stitch is combined with $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, its shape stability and fullness are contained and flexibility is added on it. Therefore, $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch can be also applied for women's winter knit wear.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.46-55
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• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.93-101
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• 1998

Knit products which had been limited only to underwear, recently became popularized, fashionized and highly classified covering even outer garments such as sportswear like golfwear, woman's dress, and man' s suit. As fashion cycle is getting shorter and the more a nation advanced prefers knit to woven fabrics knit industry has a very bright prospect, particularly woman's knit which is sensitive to fashion can be said as a fashion product with high value added. This study is to grasp the physical properties of stitch which are fundamental to the development of knit products. For this purpose, 2/20s of 100% wool were woven by the author of this study to basic plain stitch, rib stitch, varied transfer stitch, and float stitch on a SEMASEIKI cross knitter 7G to test the physical properties, and the result was as follows; 1. As for the relation between knit stitch and rate of extension recovery, rate of extension recovery was higher in the course direction than in the wale direction of three stitches except transfer stitch; rib stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the course direction while float stitch showed the highest rate of extension recovery in the wale direction. 2. As for the relation between knit stitch and bursting strength elastic rib stitch showed higher bursting strength to indicate elasticity is an important factor of bursting strength and float stitch showed higher bursting strength too to indicate that the floating yarn on the surface plays a role of support. 3. As for the relation between knit stitch and air permeability perforated transfer stitch showed the lowest air permeability to prove that the size of perforation affects on the air permeability a great deal. 4. As for the relation between knit stitch and warmth retaining rib stitch through two lined needle bar showed the highest degree. The reason the warmth of perforated transfer stitch didn't decrease much was because the perforation wasn't big enough and content of air increased from the unevenness of the perforated parts through stitch variation. Based upon this result, each stitch can be characteristically summarized as follows; plain stitch showed a stable condition of knit cloth in four kinds of physical property test. And rib stitch is proper to tighten the edge of sleeve or clothe making use of its excellent extension recovery and to make socks for the highest bursting strength and warmth retaining. In the case of transfer stitch, seasonable designs can be taken by controlling the size of loop. Considering the pleasantness, underwear should be made of stitches with good air permeability float stitch was revealed to have color and pattern effects and a great bursting strength. This study has limitations in the aspect that it dealed with a small part of various knit stitches and the items of physical property test were not enough. The author of this study hopes that further studies would make deeper understandings about knit stitch based on more varied stitches and physical property tests ultimately to contribute to the development of fashionable designs proper to maximize the usage, function and originality.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.47-52
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• 2013

Aim of this study is to investigate the dimensional and shrinkage characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics with Polylactic acid(PLA) knitted yarn. This PLA knitted yarn was made of the biodegradability fiber. The structure of weft knitted fabrics that was utilized for this study is the plain stitch, which is the most basic structure among all weft knitted fabrics. As the stitch length is shorter, the stitch density, courses density, and wales density are more increasing. The stitch density increased as pre-treatment process and dyeing process progressed. On the contrary, the heat setting process made it decreasing. The MR(Machine Relaxation) and DR(Dry Relaxation) standard area shrinkage were increasing as wet process progressed and as the stitch lengths are long.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2019

This research aims to obtain useful data on the development of compression garment products with high-stretch knitted materials. Using nylon SCY, four specimens were knitted. Then, appearance (width, length, weight, thickness), stretch property (stretch, recovery) and clothing pressure were measured and their interrelation was analyzed. In the comparison of appearance features, yarn floating caused shrinkage in both course and wale directions of the specimens. Yarn overlapping by tucking caused a release in the course direction and shrinkage in the wale direction. Also, structural change was affected by the weight and thickness change of the knitted fabric. In the analysis of fabric stretch, yarn floating reduced the extension in course direction and increased that in wale direction of the knitted fabric. However, yarn overlapping reduced the elongation in both directions. In the analysis of recovery, yarn floating and overlapping raised fabric recovery in both directions, and tuck structure was superior to float in recovery. In the analysis of clothing pressure, 'Plain-Float' structured fabrics showed a higher clothing pressure than 'Plain' and the clothing pressure value of 'Plain-Tuck' was lower than that of 'Plain'. As for the correlation between fabric appearance, stretch property, and clothing pressure, the appearance change in course direction had a major influence on the clothing pressure. The shrinkage of appearance led to a decrease in stretch and an increase in clothing pressure.