• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.955-971
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.372-385
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• 2022

In this study, the patterns expressed on nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain among Joseon white porcelain were selected as the material for the development of the car seat fabric design. It was intended to be applied to car seat design by incorporating Korea's own traditional patterns to fit modern sensibility. First, seven pieces of nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain were selected through the literature, and motifs were produced using adobe illustrator, a computer graphic program. Seven car seat fabric designs were developed according to the construction method and development method of the produced motif. Work 1 was designed to elicit a soft and feminine atmosphere using the peony pattern shown in Table 1-1. Work 2 aimed to express a luxurious atmosphere using the image of the mountain expressed in Table 1-2 as a design material. Works 3 was designed by freely arranging the letters of luck expressed in Table 1-3 to form a free and dynamic image. Work 4 was intended to express a stable and rhythmic atmosphere by horizontally arranging the images of the gently curved wings, tail, and rhythmical tail feathers of the phoenix expressed in Table 1-4. Work 5 was designed in a vertical arrangement using the patterns and silhouettes of the tiger's back expressed in Table 1-5. Work 6 was designed using the wave pattern expressed in Table 1-6 to replicate the rhythmic atmosphere. Work 7 was designed using the images of rocks, waves, and the sun in Table 1-7 to express a calm and antique atmosphere.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.2 s.2
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• pp.107-119
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• 2004

Dan-chung had many great traditional patterns of Korea. By investigating its patterns, which comprise the integral part of the formative features, and analyzing the aesthetic characteristics and formative beauty, the foundation was set to use the patterns as the motives of art makeup works. A focus was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-chung patterns. The representative patterns that were used a lot in Dan-chung made the motives of the four art make-up designs, which tried to integrate the aesthetic senses of the Dan-chung patterns into the art makeup venues. The four patterns were each based on the phoenix, bat, ghost face, and crane. The major colors used were white, black, red, blue and yellow, which were also the cardinal Five Colors of Dan-chung. They were changed in terms of luminosity and coma and manipulated to make harmony with intermediate colors so that the designs would ooze out the Korean aesthetic senses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose an innovative teaching pedagogy using a half-scale body form in apparel design education and evaluate its effectiveness in augmenting students' understanding of ergonomic patterns. Constructed in alignment with Phoenix's (2018) study, which used 3D body scanning and digital editing software, the half-scale body form was created through a five-step process, encompassing body measurement, 3D body modeling, fabrication of a physical half-scale body form, pattern making, and evaluation. Implemented in an undergraduate patternmaking course offered at a 4-year university in the metropolitan Seoul, this instructional approach's effectiveness was gauged through students' course projects and exit interviews. The results underscored the positive impact of the proposed teaching pedagogy on students' grasp of ergonomic pattern development, fostering a keen understanding of diverse body shapes and sizes and the relationship between the human body and garments. Furthermore, it played a role in cultivating positive body image and self-endorsement among students. The research contributes meaningfully by presenting a fresh perspective in apparel design education, seamlessly integrating advanced anthropometric and technological tools into a conventional patternmaking classroom. It offers a novel learning experience for students majoring in apparel, creating a fun and interactive teaching environment.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.58-65
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• 2015

Compared to pavement of Chinese palace gardens, those of private gardens in south part of the Yangtze River(長江) in China shows variety of patterns. In order to figure out what causes the difference in paving pattern, this article focuses on the traditional Chinese ideologies during the all time. An analysis on 'Classical Gardens of Suzhou', which has been designated as UNESCO World Heritage, was used to determine how ideologies have influence on paving pattern of Classical Gardens. As a result, various Chinese ideologies such as Nature worship, Totemism, Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, and Folk Culture were found in paving patterns of the private gardens. Pattern of sun in the Retreat & Reflection Garden(Toisawon) is an example of Nature worship among primitive beliefs of ancient China. Phoenix pattern of the Couple's Retreat Garden(Ouyuan, Liuyuan) reflects Totemistic beliefs. Confucianism is the underlying philosophy of Eight Square pattern, Six Square pattern, and Cross Square pattern. These patterns were mainly used to pave large area and easily found in many gardens. Patterns reflect Taoism are "Wufu holding life" pattern(the Five blessing holding life, 五福捧壽), Flat peach pattern, and Alluding Eight Immortals pattern. Paving patterns related to Buddhism are patterns of 'Eight treasures' and Endless knot pattern appears most frequently since it expresses concept of reincarnation well. Paving patterns shows folk culture and beliefs of the time in China are bat, butterfly, dragonfly, frog, carp, and coin(ingot).

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.399-409
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the random selection among female undergraduate students in Daegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that measured by 5 scale method. And then they were classified into two groups which were interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Frequency, percentage and mean were analyzed, for difference of groups t-test was analyzed. The results were as fellows; 1. For the degree of interest for Korean traditional patterns, it was showed that 53.8% of total respondents took interest and about 40.4% of them had preference for traditional patterns. the correlation coefficient of the degree of interest and preference was 0.782(p<0.01) and showed that the positive correlation was high. 2. Among 20 kinds of Korean traditional patterns, the degree of preference for the patterns of plants and nature was quite high whereas that for the patterns of geometrical things was low relatively. 3. It was evaluated that pattern of nature was fresh, refined and womanly image generally. It was evaluated that pattern of plants was womanly, fresh, weak, light and soft image and that of animals was heavy, splendid, high-class, manly, strong and positive image. It was evaluated that pattern of geometrical things was the most refined image and high-class, rigid and strong. 4. The statistical significance of mean between interest/non-interest group was showed statistically in the patterns of clouds, mountains, lotus, apricot, orchid, dragon, phoenix and bogey. In case of pattern of orchids, the degree of preference was most different between interest/non-interest group. 5. The pattern of plants showed the most different evaluation for images between interest/non-interest group. For refined/old-fashioned polar adjective images, the interest group evaluated the pattern of plants more refined. 6. For pattern of orchids, the difference of degree of preference between preference/non-preference group was most remarkable in Korean traditional patterns. 7. The pattern of geometrical things showed the most different evaluation for images between preference/non-preference group. For warm/cool polar adjective images, the preference group evaluated the pattern of geometrical things cooler.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.87-96
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• 2009

Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 1997

Sean means a narrow cloth added to the edge of costume or cushion. At the beginning, Seon was originated to prevent from fraying warp of cloth or wearing out of cloth. However, with the progress of clothing culture, it is used to satisfy the human desire of decoration and enhance the function of costume. The Seon appeared on costumes of Ming dynasty was simple compared to that of the period preceeding it. The position of Seon was mostly at neckline, end of sleeves and hemline. The width of Seon also was quite monotonous and lacks of varieties. The patterns of Seon were limited to ax, cloud and dragon and cloud and chinese phoenix. And the colors used were also limited to four colors, namely Blue, Red Crimson and Black. In Ming dynasty, the same colors of Seon as those of the costume were more preferably used, while different colors of Seon were used in the previous era. The reason why Seon in Ming dynasty show simple design and use the same colors as those of the costume was due to Ming dynasty's desire to represent and to enhance her castic political structure. The need for class distinction was expressed through the pattern rather than the colors of the costumes themselves. While, in Ming dynasty, Bo(補) which was attached to the breast and the shoulders was used to represent the social class because it could be easily distinguished. In Ming dynasty, to stress Bo and to make Seon less conspicuous, Seon became simple and the colors of Seon were same as those of the costumes avoiding strong contrast in style and colors.