• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.219-238
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• 2014

This study attempted to investigate present condition and product planning of global eco-fashion brands that harmonize fashion and sustainability. As research subjects, this study selected 97 oversea fashion brands mentioned in books related to eco-fashion, Black(2011), Brown(2010), Fuad-luke(2009). As for research methods, materials and ethical practices of these selected 97 brands through literature data and their internet site homepages. This study analyzed oversea eco-brands collected 26 British brands, 22 American brands, 36 European brands such as Germany, France, Italy, Sweden, Spain, Finland and so on, except Britain and 13 other regions including Japan, India, Canada, Mexico, and New zealand. In conclusion, the product planning characteristics of these oversea eco-fashion brands can be summarized as follows; community and fair trade, ecological and slow design, recycle, reuse, redesign, and new eco-models. Firstly, brands of 'community and fair trade' manufactured products through fair trade and local community's artisan by ethical practices with organic fabrics. Secondly, brands of 'ecological and slow design' pursued timeless design and multi-functional design as luxury eco-fashion styles. They used organic textiles, hemp, bamboo, soya, tencell, sea cell, and self-sustaining plants. Thirdly, brands of 'recycle, reuse, redesign' aimed for upcycling high-end fashion and used vintage clothes, textile scraps, PET, parachutes, tires, safety belts, advertising banner and so on. In addition, brands of 'new models as eco-fashion' suggested zero-waste cutting, recycling over-printing technology, new sustainable business model, and ethical practices in the supply chain of the fashion industry.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.673-679
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• 2005

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of the coefficient of friction(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 150d/48f warp and 200d/384f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by Omega$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Vamatex-P1001ES$^{(R)}$ rapier loom by Vamatex Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment. Fabric thickness was also measured and discussed according to the fabric positions such as center and each of fabrics with two looms weaving tensons.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.790-796
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• 2011

This study was designed to investigate the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil under various solutions. The detergency of the particulate soil was determined by adhesion of particle to fabric and its removal from fabric separately. The PET fabric and ${\alpha}-Fe_2O_3$were used as materials of textile and model of particulate soil, respectively. The detergency was investigated as a function of surfactants concentration, ionic strength, kinds of electrolyte and mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant in different ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture. Although some deviations exist, the adhesion of particle to fabric generally increased with decreasing its removal from fabric. The detergency of particulate soil on PET fabric was relatively higher in anionic/nonionic surfactant mixed solution than in each single surfactant solution, but the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil was low. Generally the detergency of particulate soil on fabric was at its maximum at 0.1% surfactant concentration, $1{\times}10^{-3}$ ionic strength, $Na_5P_3O_{10}$ electrolytes and 10 mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant, regardless of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.667-672
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• 2004

Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics were treated with a silica particle and phosphate flame retardant to determine the optimum process condition of the digital textile printing(DTP) media. The treating conditions for the study were 6 conditions, from F1 to F6, in which F3, F4 and F5 were treated with mixture of both silica particle and phosphate compound in process of pad, dry and cure fixation. F6 was treated with phosphate compound only and silica particle coating successively. Xanthan gum was used to control the migration of liquid phosphate compound onto PET fabrics. The change in surface morphology of fabrics treated with silica particle and phosphate compound was observed by SEM and flame retardance was evaluated by limiting oxygen index(LOI). It was observed that F6 was the excellent flame retardance and low bleeding in printing, Collectively, the printing characteristics of silica to cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink and flame retardance of fabrics finished with phosphate compound were identified in this study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.219-225
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to make an ideal dummy for adult Maltese with proper investigation of its character and direct measurement of dog body-shape. The results of the study are as follows; First, there were 6 factors to affect the characteristics of Maltese body in the analysis, which are size of body, leg shape, chest shape, leg thickness, body length, length between fore-legs. In the cluster analysis with the 6 factors there were two types of Maltese body. Type 1 has body characteristics with large body, thick leg, and small distance between front legs. Type 2 has average size of all factors including body size, leg thickness, and length between fore-legs. Second, type 2 was selected as a representative one to make a dummy reflected body shape of characteristics because it took 67.71% from entire considered factors and has average value in the measured size. The first dummy pattern was planned by copying the surface area of the representative body shape with the method of surgical tape. A dummy of single body with trunk and legs was made using 30's cotton cloth, polyester inside batting, compressed form PVC and metallic wire on the joint of trunk and legs to support dummy shape. The second pattern was made by correcting size difference of the pattern and adding the pattern of neck covering plate, metal magnetic button was inserted on the center of joint area of trunk and legs to make detachable legs for easy slip on and off the pet's wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.401-408
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• 2007

The study aims to examine consumer awareness of green fashion products and demographic characteristics by subdividing environmentally conscious consumers of such products in the current domestic fashion market. It then compares the result with the characteristics of environmentally conscious consumers studied by 1999 in order to understand the trend of the consumer group in the fashion market and to promote the use of green fashion products. Marketing strategies for green fashion products suggested by the study are as follows: First, fashion firms are required to develop and publicize shops selling recycled or second-hand clothing that environmentally conscious consumers show constant interest. For instance, clothing patterns may be developed to enable consumers to make their kids' clothing easily at home, and various garments made from recycled materials may stimulate environmentally conscious consumers' desire to buy. Particularly, advanced technologies should be developed and publicized to manufacture garments that can excel existing ones made of normal materials in their features in order to satisfy consumers' interest in clothing made from recycled PET bottles. In addition, various natural dyes should be developed to decrease water pollution. Second, it seems imperative to develop clothing made of recycled knitted apparel that attracts consumers' interest more than ever, fashionable multi-purpose clothing, and environmentally friendly materials. As the use of natural fur or leather can cause the endangerment of wild animals and the destruction of the ecosystem, synthetic fur or leather may be used to develop sophisticated products with the same texture as real ones to attract environmentally conscious consumers' interest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-92
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• 2018

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.22-31
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• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of warm up yarns and their knitted fabrics including the dye affinity and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabrics according to the various dyeing times and temperatures on dyeing process. The results were summarized as follows. The tenacity of Nylon/PP warm-up yarn was 4g/d and breaking strain was 4.5%. The wet and dry thermal shrinkages were higher than those of PET warm-up yarn. The maximum heat flow rate(Qmax) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was lower than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric and heat keeping rate(a) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was higher as 47% than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric. It was shown that the shape retention and wearing comfort of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric were better than those of PET warm-up knitted fabric. The dye-affinity(K/S) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the dyeing condition of 40minute or 50minute dyeing time with $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature, but PET warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the 30minute or 40minute with $110^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Finally, the color fastness to washing of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed good value as between 4 and 5 grade.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.35-49
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• 2015

This paper investigated optimum process conditions of coating yarn for awning fabric. For this purpose, the simulation for processability and yarn quality using SPSS statistics package was carried out, and PP/TPO and PET/PVC coating yarns specimens were made with variation of extruder temperature and feed speed of core yarn on the yarn coating machine for examining simulation result. It was revealed that optimum coating conditions of PP/TPO 1000d coating yarn were extruder temperature $150^{\circ}C$, and core yarn feed speed 400~500m/min. Mechanical property and thermal shrinkage of PP/TPO coating yarn made at this conditions were best and core evenness rates of these coating yarns by yarn compression tester were also superior, which was certified by SEM photograph. In addition, these experimental results were coincided with simulation results. It was found that, in PET/PVC coating yarn, yarn physical properties between 1500d and 1200d coated yarns were not shown any difference, and core evenness rates of these coating yarns were superior. It revealed and concluded that these simulated coating conditions are applicable to production field.