• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.53-70
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• 1999

The theatre costume in English Renaissance which is scarce in its historical materials can be inferred and imaginarily reconstructed from classifying it according to types of theatre costumes and considering its specific form in that age. The history of fashion could be also approached in the light of theatre costumes and it might be some help to the present theatre costume. Thus the purpose of this thesis is for contributing to the study of theatre costume by inferring the English Renaissance theatre costume from classifications and research of its pattern in detail. This thesis consists of the overview of the periodical background of English Renaissance and then analysis of the stage surroundings ar that time and classification of the theater costume acording to the types and finally inferences of the pattern of forms of the theatre costume. The theatre costume in English Renaissance can be divided into these group:(1) for foreigners such as Roman Turk Spanish and Jews (2) for supernatural beings such as a nymph god, goddess, ghosts, and witches(3) for professionals such as a clown, a clergyman. doctors and senators(4) for cast of animals such as a lion a bear and pigs. In the Elizabethan period theatre costumes were used together with Elizabethan costumes on the stage. Generally the theatre costumes in the age were typically made of very expensive materials and spectacles to the audience and compensating for the poor stage settings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.47-65
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• 2000

The movie costume's function and the role can be defined by reflection of the society and the times, character portrayal, conveyance of image, and creation of fashion. Korean movie costumes have been differentiated from 1950s till 1990s in time period and the results of comparison between the times as follow : Movie and fashion hold same period in common so that sense of fashion is naturally contained in the movie costume. Therefore, excluding special movie that costumes are selected by designer, such kind of trend is notable in the times when costumes mostly selected by actors themselves. Most movie costumes are not designed after predicting up coming fashion by considering movie producing time so that notation between current fashion and fashion in the movie and mostly we see about one year behind fashion style. For FAD, fashion that quickly passes in each season can use costumes in fashion, considering movie producing time and time background, that it lack of trend of fashion in the movie. Korean movie industry lack of having perception of people who are in charge of taking care of movie so that costumes are not properly taken care of and uses only 5% of total movie producing cost. Such that kind having lack of preception and treatment of movie costumes can't expect development of movie costumes.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.125-132
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• 2006

This Study in order to review the history of our children's costumes, this study examined the socio-cultural background of Chosun dynasty and then, reviewed children's costumes comprehensively during that period according to their considerations, kinds, colors and patterns. In addition, this study explored the possibility of making use of the characteristics of children's costumes during Chosun dynasty, since it was perceived that if our children should be dressed in a traditional costume designed with some traditional costume characteristics and ornaments, our tradition would be enlivened in their life and spirit. It is results can be summed up as follows; Our traditional costumes consisted basically of Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) and additionally of Headgear(冠帽), Dae(帶), Hwa(靴) or Yi and Beosun, which must prove that the Korean people is cultural people. Our ancestors were dressed first in Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) to be supported by dae(帶). Our traditional costume style was 'front adjustment' or otherwise, left or right adjustment. Commoners' costumes would change after the series of foreign invasions and again during mid-late Chosun dynasty. During the period of King Sukjong, Jeogori was far shorter and smaller, while China was more diversified and voluminous enough to look like a jar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.173-184
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• 1999

In the Tan dynasty it cultural style was very international and its culture actively absorbed other foreign culture. Moreover it was the time when the concept of barbarians(胡, hu) was applied widely and its culture got the tremendous influence from other foreign culture The influence from the barbarians were tremendous in Tang dynasty so that among the ten elements of the Sipbuak(十部樂) in Tang period only ChungSangAk(淸商樂, Qingshangyue) and YenAk(燕樂, Yenyue) were from their own Chinese culture(漢, Han). I wanted to discuss the influences of the Barbarians cultures on the dancing costumes in Tang period for it appeared to me that especially the dancing costume with the introduction of new foreign dances and their distinct styles in costumes would make a great impact on the dressing styles in Tang dynasty On the dancing costumes in tang dynasty we dan find the strong influences by the Barbarian style(胡風, hufeng), and even the authentic Chinese dressing styles of han period appear to be change quite a bit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.441-451
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• 2020

This study examined the characteristics of the royal progress and regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage and then investigates King Gojong's costumes in "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire". To examine the regulations on costumes in the king's excursion by a royal carriage, there are unique costumes, 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' for the great memorial service for ancestors during the Korean Empire period. 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo' are not provided in the code during the Joseon Dynasty period. Thus, it was not provided in the regulations, in the actual execution of the ritual, the king put on 'Ikseongwan and Gangsapo,' so entering the Korean Empire period, it was legislated as 'Ikseon-gwanbok' in Daehan-yejeon. There is a scene in the "Dongga Painting of the Korean Empire" in which the king pays a visit on Yeon, holding 'Gyu' in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo'. However, holding 'Gyu' on Yeon in 'Ikseongwan and Gonryongpo' can be seen in King Gojong's royal procession to hold Jongmyo Chunhyangdaeje in the year of Gabo (1894). This study showed that there was a compromise for the ritual despite not being regulated by law.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.847-861
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• 2017

As the excavated costumes from the unknown tomb of the Joseon Dynasty were unearthed, estimating the age of the costumes became very important. This research investigat and estimates the age of the excavated costumes from Couple's Tomb for Lee General in Seosan, Chung-nam. By inspecting and analyzing the costumes, the features can be compared with other similar costumes that have been excavated from other tombs. The result of this study is as follows: First, the period with dopo, cheol-rik, jungchimak, and baji for females among the relics of General Lee can be estimated. For dopo, there are morphometric features such as the shape of moo; for cheol-rik, there is a ratio of top and bottom; for jungchimak, there is a ratio of width of arm and skit and a ratio of side tim, total length, etc. By comparing relics of same period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea to the early 17 century. Second, the period with jangui and jeogori among the relics of Couple's Tomb for General Lee can be estimated. By comparing jangui with the arm and width of sleeves, and by comparing jeogori and the shape of the collar, arm, length, etc., with other relics identical to the period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea, which is a similar date to the one with the husband to the early 17 century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.1-16
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• 2007

This study is to design costumes of each characters, seen in the film of 'TITANIC' directed by James Cameron in 1997, by analyzing various costumes for each roles in the film. The 'TITANIC' has got the 'Oscar Award' in 1998 in 11 sectors for its' high box office record and the finest of the work, based on successful visualization of the costumes for the contemporary characters by historical research. The social background of 'TITANIC' would be presumed in the year of 1912, of which era was also called by 'La Belle Epoque', to say, 'good period'. This study, therefore, traced the representative art trend for the 1910's, together with political, economical and social backgrounds as 1st step. The 2nd step is the consideration of fashion trends of costume affected by the contemporary trends such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the period. The 3rd step is the analysis of costumes in the film of 'TITANIC'. Finally, this work has designed the virtual costumes of the characters, in imaginary scenes, which could denote the nature of the personality. Hopefully, this study could help designers show sustainable development in creating cinema costumes and other related projects, based on the understandings of this work.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.32-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).